Voltage Fix - 955 Tigers .......better known as the SASQUATCH MOD

[The Kurgan]

I just made a short video clip of my charging system voltage at idle -- with and without a pair of 55w driving lights turned on.

I better take care not to leave my Tiger idling for any extended period of time with the driving lights turned on or I'll have a discharged battery.

see here:

[GARYSTIGER955i]

Ok guys and hi from The Land of where Triumph Hailed....
 I have read all the threads and sasquatch or wotever his name is is correct in what he is saying, i have done the mod on a 2001 green tiger955i and it reduces resistance(flow) and i used 30 amp wiring/365watt but there is a reason for the 30 amp fuse and its to protect the system, and stop the wiring melting.. For a better understanding of current (amps)lets say the river nile is say 50 amp and the mississipi is 40 amp and your local river/stream depending on size is say 5/7.5/10/15/20/25/30 amp now think of the nile flowing through your local river/stream (yes its gonna blow/Overflow)this is known as current flowing through resistance ie 50 amp through 5amp wiring this is a problem so you will need larger wiring to cope with the amperage.
 so now think of power(watts) if your running 2x 55watt driving lamps this equates to 8 amp min usage.. to get a better picture of current/watts/volts/and resistance heres a link
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/dcc ... dcp_2.html
this will give you a better understanding.. or Google Ohms Law
 Oh and what a fantastic forum... i have read various threads including recalls on fuel leaks... oh yes my female has decided to fracture and my local dealer and triumph wont accept that the females are a warranty/recall issue.. so i have purchased from CPC

[Bixxer Bob]

good to see another Brit, you show UK, can you narrow it down a bit?

[REGULATOR]

The old ATC fuse holder in my Sasquatch Fix overheated and melted because its small connectors created too much electrical resistance... the fuse holder couldn't endure having the normal 30 amps flowing through it for hours at a time.



   I had this problem about a month after doing my upgrade...


I ripped it all out and returned to stock,  but now am scared to power my lights etc..


    I would gladly pay someone to make me a plug and play kit of high quality parts, cause apparently I cannot do it myself.

anybody work in the electrical busniess?

[GARYSTIGER955i]

good to see another Brit, you show UK, can you narrow it down a bit?

Aye up matey...  exact location is Sheffield.. i have had a test run today on a rocket 3 and by christ it goes..and limits at 130  i love the bottem end power... oh sorry my name is Gary and i love me tiger 955, but was meant to have a test run on a 1050 tiger today but the bike was not in.. maybe someone or something is trying to tell me something...

The old ATC fuse holder in my Sasquatch Fix overheated and melted because its small connectors created too much electrical resistance... the fuse holder couldn't endure having the normal 30 amps flowing through it for hours at a time.



   I had this problem about a month after doing my upgrade...


I ripped it all out and returned to stock,  but now am scared to power my lights etc..


    I would gladly pay someone to make me a plug and play kit of high quality parts, cause apparently I cannot do it myself.

anybody work in the electrical busniess?

sorry and yes its wire gauge than can cause meldown at the fuse,but the internal connections of the fuse holder must be good as well, it doesnt matter wether its a mini 30 amp or maxi 30amp they both do one job and its a kinda of link and when its overloaded it save your system, it doesnt matter on the area of contact, if you use 30 amp rated wire with a 30 amp mini rated fuse and the fuse holder is good quality and all your connections are good then you will not have a problem... but if you use the less rated wiring that is not designed for charging systems then you will have problems and meltdowns occur, and thats why i use ohms law to give me an idea, same with earthing if you have a bad connection you must expect problems... i have done my C+G/ B-Tec level 2 in vehicle electrics and electronic principles which involves alot more than the basics... imagine bigger the river the bigger the flow the less resistance..

[oxnsox]

anybody work in the electrical busniess?

Ain't close enough to do it for you sorry. Go for a slightly larger fuse and holder like the Maxi (its back a few posts in this thread).

Often the weakest part (electrically) in these moulded fuse holders is the bit you can't see. The connection of the wire to the fuse holding terminals. Because this is a poor connection it heats up with the high current, and eventually melts and fails.

If you can find the part at a local auto store you should be able to find an auto sparky who can fix it in place. A lot of stores have someone on site who fits Car Audio. May not be fully techno skilled, but should be able to fit an inline Fuse holder that you supply.

[ridin gaijin]

For the record, the 30 amp Maxi fuses are pretty easy to find--several car parts places, our local Best Buy, etc. all have them--but that Maxi holder might be a b!tch to locate. After a couple days of hard looking I have one last faint hope in a car audio place near me (they said they could order one); else I'll have to order one on teh interwebs.

[oxnsox]

Thanks for that Gaijin.. Also try RV and Marine stores if you have them in your area because these folk add shiney things to their toys too

[Nimrod11]

Easiest bet: try amazon.com or ebay. Just look up Maxi Fuse.

Or just Google it: http://www.google.com/products?q=maxi+fuse+holder

Good luck!

[ridin gaijin]

Here are the wires I made:

Probably a stupid question but...

Why are the spade connectors needed? Why not splice the two red (power) lines coming from the RR together, then splice them into the line going into the fuse? (The uppermost set in Nimrod's pic above.) Wouldn't that eliminate another connection?

Thanks all & sorry if this is obvious [to everyone else],

rg


P.S. BTW all the car audio places near me failed too on the Maxi holder. So I ordered a couple over the internet (~$4.50 each). It's a shame; I was hoping to pick one up locally and have that part of the repair chaos handled this weekend.


EDIT: And ditto the ground. Why not just splice the two black wires into one, and then stick that into the O lead that sits on the neg terminal?

[Nimrod11]

Why are the spade connectors needed?

For me, simple answer. I didn't want to cut the original wires. If this fix fails, just unplug the fix and plug back in to original harness.

As for not finding the maxi fuse in a shop, this seems to be a problem in the US now. Anything you want that is a little out of the ordinary has to be ordered online. Shops now just have the usual stuff.

[oxnsox]

Gaijin  you are absolutely correct, minimise the connections and you minimise the potential for problems.
Spade terminals are not wonderful connectors, they are simply low cost and readily available.
Having the ability to remove the mod, as Nimrod suggests, may appeal to some. :)

[ridin gaijin]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

[atokad]

UPDATE:  I went ahead and did the fix since I'd constructed the leads to go from the battery to the RR. I did the female spade ends (vs cutting the stock connector off) figuring that if I screwed some wiring up or if it ever went bad (my connections) during a trip I could remove all of my connections and just plug in the stock connectors.

Exactly what I chose to do. Leave the stock connectors all in place in case they are need to re-connect in the event of a malfunction with the mod/fuse holder/dealer necessity for testing etc etc.

[ridin gaijin]

The rectifier/regulator. I moved it from under the seat behind the engine to the frame: it's secured with 4 stainless steel zip ties (OMFG I never even knew these existed...I don't think I'll ever buy tinsel again at Xmas) with a claimed tensile strength of 100 lbs each. Now it catches some breeze--or can; road test is tomorrow. Additionally the RR is farkled with the modified Sasquatch fix. I've eliminated the connectors as I said I would. Now, the two neg wires are spliced together, connect to a 10 ga, and go straight to the neg term. The positives are spliced, wired with 10 ga into a 30 amp MAXI fuse, and then the MAXI goes straight to the pos term. No going back! :shock:

I take it out tomorrow for road testing. But tonight, in the garage...

...not only did the machine start, and not melt or explode, but the Datel read 14.7 - 14.8 at idle.




I have a lot of work still to do and it's sure not as pretty under there as it could be. But tonight, I'm very happy.