Craiglist/Sprag Clutch Questions (now with pics)

[TigerTrax]

If you have not already done so..
pull the fuel valve and clean it...should be a filter attached to it.
Install a clear, in-line filter just below the fuel valve.

Follow the fuel line to the carbs... where the fuel line meets the carbs is another fuel filter.. pull it out and chuck it.

Also.. there is a filter where your vent lines come out of the tank. That thing gets gunked up quite easily... water and 'stuff' in the tank collects in that area.

Check to see if there is a milky residue in your carb bowls. For some reason, some Tiger gas tanks of that era deteriorate on the inside and that resin residue gets into the filters & carbs.

The airbox has 2 snorkles... one coming out each side. Make certain you have one snorkle capped.... both uncapped creates big time problems.
Each of those snorkles end up under a side panel on each side.

[Mudhen]

What a fix!!!

You da man Doc.  You da man.

[Dr. Mordo]

What a fix!!!

You da man Doc.  You da man.

I wish.  

UPDATE:

The bike started several times, then started to have sprag probs until it stopped turning over altogether.  I am pretty much positive that I didn't put enough tension on the wire that I wrapped around the sprag, so as it ran it worked just loose enough to stop grabbing.  If it wasn't such a royal pain to get to, I would try it again.  Honestly, I may yet try it again, I haven't decided.  I went ahead and ordered a sprag, but I may get it apart and decide to try the wire one more time.  When you've disassembled an engine twice, why not try for three?  I will certainly post pics when I get it apart again, just for posterity as much as anything.  I am also still thinking about tracking down a spring and trying that fix to see if it works.

If I had the access cover there is no question - I would not buy a new sprag.  My sprag can certainly be repaired with a little TLC.  I highly recommend anybody who has the access cover to at least consider trying this trick if the gears look good.

Tigertrax - I really appreciate the info.  I had to pull the filter at the carb to get it to start at all.  I plan to put in an inline filter.  Did you remove the filter from the tank?  

I'll let y'all know how the experiment continues, if it continues.

[Dr. Mordo]

Ok.  Sprag update.  I got the new one and started reassembling today.  I'm working an assload this week so I'll have it on the road this weekend.

This is the 51t sprag clutch:


Here are some pics of it being disassembled:







In the bottom left corner is the problem, which I will refer to as the Tooth ring.  It grabs when you engage the starter, but doesn't grab when the engine spins faster than the starter.

Here is a closeup.



Here is why it doesn't work:




That spring is supposed to put tension on the teeth so they grab.  Here are some pics of the spring:









So, I stand by my theory that a replacement spring will fix my sprag.  I am unwilling to pull the engine a third time right now, so I splurged on a new one.  However, I highly recommend that people who have the access plate at least consider just tracking down a spring and not needlessly dumping $250 into a part they don't need (you don't need it if there is no gear damage to either the sprag or idler gear).

If I get some good info on exactly what spring is needed I will post it for the greater good.

[pit0rz]

piccy no worky! :lol:

[Dr. Mordo]

You saw my rough draft!

[fano]

Thank you for the pics. Now it does make sense to me. :icon_study

[Mudhen]

Thanks for the pics.  They're just what the doctor ordered.   :D

[nightrunner]

Very impressive repair!  This sort of microsurgery approach has saved me a lot of money over years and the education is invaluable.  Too bad about having to pull the motor.  No chance of reaching the sprag without, eh?

What about taking a longer garter spring and cutting it down.  The trick would be in securely joining the ends.  Maybe interlace a few coils and insert a wire to keep them interlaced.  Then embed with silicone or JB Weld to keep the wire from moving.   Maybe a crimp connection.   Just throwing out ideas here.

Good luck with it

[Dr. Mordo]

Nightrunner that is a very interesting idea.  I want to try to find an exact replacement, but eventually I'll have to try cutting down the original spring to see if that works!

Great idea.

[JetdocX]

What about taking a longer garter spring and cutting it down.  The trick would be in securely joining the ends.  Maybe interlace a few coils and insert a wire to keep them interlaced.  Then embed with silicone or JB Weld to keep the wire from moving.   Maybe a crimp connection.   Just throwing out ideas here.

Good luck with it

Can be done!  In fact, that is how garter srpings are joined.  Just make sure you cut the larger diameter end.  Unwind it a bit between your thumb and forefinger and put the small end inside the larger end and let the spring screw itself together.

[Dr. Mordo]

A-ha!  Now I'll have to try it for sure!

Should I bind the spring ends somehow?  I was thinking about JB or possibly a drop of solder.

[JetdocX]

I don't think it's necessary.  The coils of the spring 's small end will fit within the coils of the large end and not move.  I've done this before in other airborne applications.  Nobody died yet.

The trick is cutting it to the right length.

[steammoto]

Instructive, thanks for taking the time.

[tigerrider]

I don't think it's necessary.  The coils of the spring 's small end will fit within the coils of the large end and not move.  I've done this before in other airborne applications.  Nobody died yet.

The trick is cutting it to the right length.

Like Chinese finger cuffs basically?