Maybe DAR

[Hossboro]

I know this is probably a very threaded item, but I have searched and read all I can and just wanted some more advice.

My 1997 Steamer has what I think maybe DAR,  It has an engine rattle on tick over but not badly, also can anyone put my mind at rest on another matter that has bugged me since I got my bike (never had a Triumph before) when riding it makes what I can only describe as, what kind of sounds like an old turbo charger winding up lol, is this normal for the triple (never heard on any other bike), but did hear another triple with the same recently.

Anything to be careful about when removing the alternator and replacing, total noob when it comes to mechanics, last time I stripped an engine was about 25 years ago lol....

[Mustang]

My 1997 Steamer has what I think maybe DAR,  It has an engine rattle on tick over but not badly, also can anyone put my mind at rest on another matter that has bugged me since I got my bike (never had a Triumph before) when riding it makes what I can only describe as, what kind of sounds like an old turbo charger winding up lol, is this normal for the triple (never heard on any other bike), but did hear another triple with the same recently.

Anything to be careful about when removing the alternator and replacing, total noob when it comes to mechanics, last time I stripped an engine was about 25 years ago lol....

the Triumph Triple has a distinct sound not unlike a diesel farm tractor
noisy as hell in the lower rpm's ..smooth as butter in the upper rpm's

the dar rattle is a definite T309 trait , some break the bolt some do not

If the alternator has never been pulled out , the three torx bolts that hold it in will be tight as in "break the torx bit tight ."

look for a sheared bolt head on the alternator side drive vane , check the condition of the cush drive rubbers .
Pull on the hex head bolt you can see on the engine side drive vane it should not be able to pull out of the engine , if it does it is broken on the clutch side . if it does start to pull out , quit pulling on it as when you pull the broken bolt out far enough the splined shaft the bolt goes into , can let the sprag clutch fall into the bowels of the engine . Which will require the cases to be split .:shock:

When reassembling :
1. Use grease to hold the drive rubbers in place while you slide the alternator back in .

2. grease the O-ring on the alternator liberally , it helps to keep from pinching the oring when you push the alternator home .

3 . It's easy to get the ground wire trapped behind the alternator , make sure it is clear before you push the alternator in  place .

[nightrunner]

If the torx bolts are tight, as Mustang describes, it may be best to get a hand held impact driver and 3/8 drive torx bit and loosen them with that rather than risk stripping the torx with too much....torques.

If the alt side bolt is broken you will need to extract it from the alt shaft.  I knew my limits and took it to a machinist to remove.  If you damage the alt it was $800 for a new one last time I looked.  Replace it with the highest grade bolt you can find.  Stock is DIN 10.9 which is U.S. grade 8.  You can also get aircraft grade DIN 12.9 from specialty suppliers.  I would use something like JB Weld or one of the Loctite potting cements on the splines to take up the wiggle room which is what breaks the bolt.  Use thread locker on the new bolt and do not use a lock washer.  Flat washer is OK.  I have read posts of owners who had to repair DAR twice.

I severed a couple of those O-rings myself.  I ordered some that were a size smaller and that worked.

[nightrunner]

P.S. What show/movie is your avatar clip from?  She looks familiar but I cant place it.

[BruKen]

If the torx bolts are tight, as Mustang describes, it may be best to get a hand held impact driver and 3/8 drive torx bit and loosen them with that rather than risk stripping the torx with too much....torques.

Might be tight?! That's an understatement :lol:  I sweated buckets trying to get mine off and learnt that even guarranteed for life torx bits will snap under impact forces. They are hard and tend to be brittle. Have a look at the YAPI thread  http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7520 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7520)  . Lots of LOCALISED heat and a cold chisel to tap them round to take the innitial nip out of the bolt.

[Hossboro]

Thnx,  that gives me all the info I need and more, as always its Mustang steps up to the plate but thnx also to nightrunner..

I got a sneakin feeling that all the noise is just the Steamer thing never had any bench mark to go from thats all, but will deff take a look anyway as soon as time off work permits just to put my mind at rest, on the road everyday so need time to do job  :lol:

[Hossboro]

P.S. What show/movie is your avatar clip from?  She looks familiar but I cant place it.

Sorry wish I knew, but I just loved it so there it is  :D

[Colonel Nikolai]

The bolts on my '96 Sprint were normal hex bolt heads! This might explain why I had to buy a 12mm socket and grind the wall down slightly to get it to seat. I used an air rachet wrench to remove the bolts. All three came out with ease once I sacrificed the 12mm socket.

[MtheTiger]

when riding it makes what I can only describe as, what kind of sounds like an old turbo charger winding up lol

Exactly right !
Tigger whines :lol:

The (loud) whining sound comes from the timing chain moving over the carrier I guess.

[Colonel Nikolai]

Okay both my steamer and my sprint have normal hexagonal bolts holding the alternator in. I'm hearing that this is not normal: that they're torx stock. No sign of DAR. Think someone already "upgraded" them?

Here's the Steamer's alternator side. Bolt is tight.



Here's the engine side. Bolt also tight.



I replaced the bushings which were a little chewed up (and were glued in  :shock: )