How to replace Steering Head Bearings

[blacktiger]

Just put my second set in at 59000. Really easy when you cut the lower inner off as described in the first post.
The bearings in there, which I fitted at 28000, were not showing any signs of being worn out but as I was doing the 60K service and had it all stripped down, I did the job anyway because I didn't want to have to strip it all down again mid riding season. that should be good for another 30K now.

[NeilD]

just doign this on my Thunderbird Sport, which has the same set up... having a real struggle fitting the bottom bearing..  :? have had to order another new one as got to the stage where it wouldnt go on nor come off (without the aid of a punch!).. perhaps i need a bigger hammer...

[Mustang]

just doign this on my Thunderbird Sport, which has the same set up... having a real struggle fitting the bottom bearing..  :? have had to order another new one as got to the stage where it wouldnt go on nor come off (without the aid of a punch!).. perhaps i need a bigger hammer...

if it is being that stubborn to go back on it may be worthwhile to find someone with a hydraulic press to push it on for you ...........

[NeilD]

may well do that, although on closer examination of the steering stem looks like I knicked it with the dremmel whilst cutting the old bearing off which raised the surface slightly, maybe just enough to stop the new one going on..  :?

[Papalobster]

Back from the dead :D

My Steamer has a notchy steering bearing and I wish to replace the bearings. I followed up on McMaster bearings, and it seems the $26 bearing Mustang referenced is now $38! All Balls has a kit #  22-1053  that looks to cover the bearings and seals and is available through Amazon for $30 shipped.

[Mustang]

the all balls kits are great I used 1 in the last steamer I did
came with two taper bearings for the bikes before serial #4xxxxx and also had the roller bearing for bikes that are after vin#4xxxxx

98's use the roller bearing with the circlip for the top bearing .
they are all over ebay also

[Papalobster]

I'm in the middle of doing this and came up with a neater, easier way to get the lower race on. I cleaned up the stem, making sure there were no nicks or anything. Wiped it down with carb cleaner and threw it in the  freezer for a couple hours. I took the new lower bearing, and put it in a 250 degree toaster oven (regular kitchen oven will work for this) for 30 minutes. Grab the stem from the freezer, grab the bearing from the oven and drop in on. No pipes, no bashing, no pressing. Give er a little tap to make sure it's seated and when it come to room temp everything is inplace and ready to install.

It's important to not heat the bearing too high, so don't use a torch or heat gun as you can mess with th egrain structure in the bearings.

It's not easy to pack the bearing after install, but can be done with patience.

When we replace bearings on our field equipment we actually use a deep fryer to immerse the bearing races to heat them up. Nice even heat and pre-lubed!

[cosmo]

Did the job on my '06 Girly. You need not remove the  fairing, and the handlebars need only be held out of the way. Pipe to press on the lower can be substituted with the old bearing race, inverted, minus cage and rollers. Then use any pipe that will press evenly on the old race (which is pressing on the new).  Heat and cold definitely helps as stated above. To install races in the frame, buy or borrow a bearing installer. The aluminium tool will not damage the race.

Cosmo

[pineygroveshop]

Just completed this project.  +1 for www.allballsracing.com.  I've now used them twice to source bearings and that they sell them in a purpose built kit really helps.

[brad1098]

With the forks off the bike the steering turns easy as it should.  There is a noticeable notch at the center/straight positions though.

28k miles, untouched factory bearings.

Go ahead tell me it is time. . . . .

[John Stenhouse]

It's time......notch will only get worse

[nickjtc]

Go ahead tell me it is time. . . . .

It's time +1.

A good excuse to get up close and personal with the front end of your bike. 

And anyway the long winter months are fast approaching and you have to have something to do.

[cdubya]

Thanks for the write up Ken.
Steering bearing maintenance is on my winter list.
Just found a good deal on 38mm wrenches I thought I'd pass along. Put "DONTFORGET" in the promo code box for an additional $5 off. Ended up $23 and change for one. Free shipping through today.
*Will have to grind the wrench down to desired thickness, 3/16".

http://www.zoro.com/i/G4822903/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CjwKEAiA5emkBRCT_JL9p77IyF8SJADpztPyfyf9sKdLUb6apxpBG6bcyO56GcFCZcjTwoSRG5RCghoC16vw_wcB

[benebob]

Bringing back from the dead because I'm dense.  I am getting ready to replace my bearings as they are making a horrible squeak (probably could just get by with a  grease but while I'm there might as well replace 'em.  My question is regarding the special tools.  When the instructions say you don't need the 38mm wrenches if you take the tank off and turn it to the right.  I'm at a loss to understand what that allows you to do without the wrenches.  Do I still need a 38mm wrench?  two of them (just thinker) or a 38mm socket etc.  Want to have everything I need ready to go to limit my downtime.

[rf9rider]

You only need the special wrenches to adjust the locknuts as they are only a couple of mm`s thick, so there isn`t enough room to get to them.

If you take the top triple tree off, you can adjust or remove the locknuts with a hammer and drift.

With the top triple tree on, you need the special wrenches as these are thin enough to adjust the locknuts without taking the top triple tree off.

You need to remove the tank and turn the triple tree to get it off as it`s some sort of anti theft device.