How To Remove Your Tank

[iansoady]

The tanks are actually quite flexible and what you show has happened to me. It all pulled back into place when I slackened off the back mouting a bit.

To "clean up" the thread you use a tap - you only need a cheap carbon steel set for that sort of job which are available here in the UK for about £15 or so. It looks like a 6mm diameter, and the pitch is probably 1mm. Measure these on the bolt that holds it in.

Cleaning up threads with a tap is easy but you need to make sure the tap enters the thread dead sqare.

[EvilBetty]

Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all...  So I'm still not sure what to try.

As for the thread, it looks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools  :lol:

[Mustang]

Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all...  So I'm still not sure what to try.

As for the thread, it ooks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools  :lol:

looking at the photo , here's what I would try :
start the back bolt but don't tighten more than a turn or two , then raise the front of  tank up in the air just a little until you can get the front bolt to start then you should be able to get the bolts to tighten up
These problems are what usually occur when the body work and tank have been sitting not attached to the bike for any length of time , they are plastic and temperature affects them greatly , they can and do expand and contract and makes reassembly tricky sometimes .
you should see what happens to 14 year old plastics that have been off the bike all winter in an un heated garage !

[EvilBetty]

Never replied back, but that worked fantastically Mustang :)

[rjvolt]

I have an 2004 model with the two hoses. Took the top one off. Had some fuel leak but it stopped. Took the bottom one off. It wouldn't stop leaking. I let it drain into a gas container for a good bit but it never stopped. I had a little more the half a tank but it was coming out slow and steady. I tried plugging it back but it still dripped. I put the bike on the center stand and plugged the hose fitting and this seemed to stop the leaking.

According to the service manual these are supposed to be self-closing. Could the fitting be broke?

[EvilBetty]

If the fuel was coming from the inside of the fitting, it sounds as if the o-ring has degradated, and unfortunately they are not serviceable like the ones on the male fittings.

The fittings from QuickCouplings have BUNA o-rings, which are not quite as good as the Viton rings that are fitted to the factory and TeamTriumph fittings.

With the increase in Ethanol in the fuel we buy it may be that even the Viton rings may even degrade faster over time that before.  Most stations that I fuel up from are using 10%.  But if you are fueling up from places using 15% or more your going to have more frequent problems.

[flux]

Stretch (or anyone) I got a couple things for you.  

#1- I nearly have my tank off, but came across something... these 2 hoses in your pic here are opposite of what you have here.  The hose with the one way valve is on the outside and the other hose was on the inside.  What are these hoses, exactly?  I had someone else do my valves last (not a Triumph dealer) and I'm wondering what he's bunged up, if anything.  


#2- Here is a pic you might consider adding under yours which shows the earlier bikes with 2 fuel lines.  This looks a lot different than what is on your bike.  What is that round connection with the hose on it?  Does this need to be removed to finish taking the tank off?  Also, when I took the top hose off a lot of fuel is coming out of the hose... I haven't gotten to the bottom one yet... I had to plug the top one back in to come up here and type.

[Stretch]

these 2 hoses in your pic here are opposite of what you have here.  The hose with the one way valve is on the outside and the other hose was on the inside.  What are these hoses, exactly?

Too funny.  Well, some dealer or previous owner got one of ours mixed up.  Seriously, my manual says that the inboard hose fitting is the Rollover Valve Connection.  The one-way valve is to prevent the tank from emptying in the event of an extended tipover.  My manual states that not all bikes were fitted with them.  The other hose is for the filler neck vent.  

As for the fuel hoses and connectors, I understand that they don't have internal valves to stop the fuel flow when unplugged, only the fittings in the tank.  The round thing with the vacuum hose is something to do with the fuel pressure regulator.  Others have posted that theirs don't even have the hose connected, or it is missing.    And I'll add your photo to my post to show the layout for pre-'05 models.  Thanks.

[TigerTrax]

Eric..
Thanks to your pics...
I have completed my 24,000 mile maintenance.
Parts cost me about $145: Mobil Oil, Oil Filter, BMW Fuel Filter, Air filter, and new Peak coolant.

In addition I bought a metric/SAE feeler guage  w 32 gauges that have everything I needed. Harbor Freight: $3
My valves checked 'spot-on' ... on the tight side.

The key: Using colored vinyl tape and mark your elctrical and hose connections.

My Triumph dealer told me $550-$580 to do this service. Go Figure!
 
Priceless!

I'll buy you a Newcastle why I am in the area. ( Going to Montgomery, AL in June and some other date )

[flux]

Okay, cool.  That answers that.  So I guess we don't know which way the hoses are meant to be run as far as the one way valve... am I reading you correct on that?  I bet it doesn't even really matter.

For anyone doing this with earlier bikes like mine, when you take that top hose off be prepared for gas to come out of there.  Luckily I learned a long time ago to keep a container around when I wrench.   8)   I did screw up and put my thumb over the line for a second and the pressure shot gas into my eye... owie.  That top line wants to continue pouring gas until you wise up and lift the hose just high enough that gravity stops the flow.  The bottom hose dribbles a little gas but stops pretty quick.  

The "Fuel pressure regulator thingie" (that IS what it is) just has a hose that routes to nowhere, so no worry there.

[flux]

I did notice that on the frame where the gas tank rests on the sides of the bike I have one rubber fitting over a nipple on the frame but only on one side.  I reckon I am meant to have one on each side, eh?  The rubbers are meant to cover the part of the frame I highlighted here:

[TigerTrax]

1. You need both rubber supports....!!!
   Look around ... it may have come off when you removed the tank.
   If not... the last person to do so did it!

[TigerTrax]

Well Chillun. . .
Here are some tips for replacing the tank.

1. The back TORQUE bolt; Replace it with a hex head... make life easy!
    The threads are 6 x 1.0. You can get an exact length replacement at
    Westlake hardware. It will have a 10mm hex head.

2. Many have had a difficult time getting it bolted down....
    things don't line up:
    - Start the rear bolt with only 3/4 - 1 turn ( enough to catch )
    - The top is often the 'sum-a-gun'. Hold the rubber bushing to the light
      and you will see where the hole is closer to one area of the edge than
      any other... place that nearest the tank. CArefully slip the bolt in and
      start with your fingers. You may have to straddle the seat frame and
      lift up about 1/2" and try to start the bolt... that usually works.
     It goes  at a steeper angle than you may think.
     You'll have to play with it a bit but it will 'catch' ... when it does turn it
     in a few good turns ( make certain you have allen wrench at 90° for
     leverage).
     Now get the rear started.... tighten both... alternating.

PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
      metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.

    Shazbah!

[iansoady]

Well Chillun. . .


PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
      metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.

    Shazbah!

Good tips. I find the best trick with the battery is to put a webbing strap around it so I can use it as a handle when taking it out.

[flux]

Thanks TigerTrax.  I figured I needed both of them but thought I would double check.  I can't seem to find the other one so I guess the last bunghole to do it lost it.  Between this and my mixed up hoses I will be doing my own valves next time.  

Oh, "Shazbah"?  Is that like a Jewish "Shazam"?   8)