Torx sizing for Girly

[matttys]

What size Torx are required for the Girly?  Specifically, to remove the rear shock and other bits on the engine/frame?

Thanks for your help guys!

[Mustang]

What size Torx are required for the Girly?  Specifically, to remove the rear shock and other bits on the engine/frame?

Thanks for your help guys!

Get yourself a set that goes up to T-60 and you should be all set .
I will also mention that if you buy the bits that are all 1 pc ( the cheap ones ) you WILL break them every time you use them cuz the torx bolts are friggin tight from the factory !

Get a set instead that has a seperate bit from the socket , they are manufactured much harder and less likely to break .
Craftsman bits are very good and if you break one you can get it replaced for free . and there are Sears stores everywhere !

[matttys]

Get yourself a set that goes up to T-60 and you should be all set .
I will also mention that if you buy the bits that are all 1 pc ( the cheap ones ) you WILL break them every time you use them cuz the torx bolts are friggin tight from the factory !

Sounds good.  I work for an industrial distributor so I can get "special" pricing on almost anything I use in my garage.  We have a set that goes up to 60, I just didn't know if that was larger enough.  I'm in for the set!

Hopefully I don't have to my new shim tool tonight.  I mean I'm always excited to use new tools, but I'd rather not have to use the tool because that means I have to buy new shims!  

Is Triumph the only source for valve shims or is another brand that has cheaper or faster shipping shims?

Thanks for your help Mustang!

[matttys]

OK, just checking back.  Cost of the 13 piece set is a bit expensive, even with a sweet discount.  Which of the larger sizes are needed on the Girly?  I'd rather buy them by the ones and twos than pay a bunch for the whole set that duplicates many of the bits on my hex key-like Torx.

[Stretch]

I seem to recall that the smaller Torx that secure the side panels, the horn bracket, and half of the front fender... are T-30.  The big 'uns at the engine mounts are T-55 (I remember that one, because it's the one I lost in the middle of my 24,000 service   ).

Camshaft bearing cap screws are also T-30.  I broke two of those, and still didn't get them loose.

 

But yeah, you can't go wrong with a quality set.

[Tom Herold]

Our bikes use a 25mm shim, the same size used in several Yamaha (VMax), Honda (CR250), Suzuki.... blah, blah... you get it.  I found shims for my 955i Sprint at my local Yamaha dealer, they only charged me $2.50 each vs Triumph, or Bike Bandit's $7 charge plus shipping.

I highly recommend taking a micrometer with you. Even though the shims are stamped with their size, it still varies a lot.  I needed a couple of shims in the 2.65 range, and found a few stamped with that number but they measured 2.63, 2.68, 2.62.  You can use any sized shim that'll keep you within the specs, personally I shoot for the loose side since valves tighten up over time.

Here's a link for a valve shim clearance calculator that makes things a bit easier by simply filling in the information, you'll find it at the bottom of the thread: http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-clas ... shims.html

[matttys]

Excellent - too bad I have to call Team Triumph now.  The plastic fuel line connectors broke off when I removed the tank.  How do I extract the piece that is stuck inside the fuel tank cover?  Can I yank or do I have to rotate them (ie they screw in)?

[blacktiger]

Can I yank or do I have to rotate them (ie they screw in)?

No. You have to lift the spring clip (which is what you should have done in the first place :roll:) and it should come out if you insert some needle nose pliers in the hole and open them up and pull.

[abruzzi]

moved to the Girly forum.

Geof

[matttys]

No. You have to lift the spring clip (which is what you should have done in the first place :roll:) and it should come out if you insert some needle nose pliers in the hole and open them up and pull.

Haha, I acutally left them connected and moved the tank around a bit to make sure that I had all the other lines disconnected.  While doing this, I bumped it against the side of the frame and one of the connectors started to leak.  At that point, I disconnected the lines and in the process of removing the broken connector it snapped off completely.  It's OK, Team Triumph has the new parts coming  :D