Valve Clearance Check for Tigers and Shim Tool Directions

[EvilBetty]

I see what you mean.  I also now remember that the feeler gauges we use don't tell you EXACTLY what the clearance is, so making such a fine calculation is impossible unless you have .001 increment feelers.  :roll:

Case in point.  The VERY LAST valve I had to do was calling for a 2.60 according to my spreadsheet, that would put the new clearance at .101, a 2.55 would put it at .151.  Since I had a 2.60 already I thought I'd save myself a trip to the dealer and use it.  Since my gauge in that range was a .102, it measured at .076 after the shim change.  I went back and swapped it for a 2.55 and now it's measuring at .127, much better. :oops:

Being the perfectionist I sometimes tend to be, I would have rather had accurate measurements of the clearances down to .001 so I could calculate exactly what my new clearance would be with what shim, but I'm guessing this is why there is a .05mm tolerance in the first place.

Anyway, VALVE SHIM ADJUSTMENT DONE!   :D

Thanks so much to everyone in this thread.  Especially Mustang for great shim tool and helpful advise.  If you're ever through Kansas City, beer is on me :)

Just the not so fun part left... Clean, seal, torque, and pray :)  Picked up some ThreeBond 1194 I was going to brush on the curved surfaces indicated in the manual.  Is this not necessary?

[Stretch]

I've read that some folks don't put sealer on the rubber gasket, and have never had a leak.  But I sealed my gasket just for peace of mind.

[Mustang]

I've read that some folks don't put sealer on the rubber gasket, and have never had a leak.  But I sealed my gasket just for peace of mind.

:oops: hehehe

[Joe Geddes]

We have recently purchased your shim tool. One question is after you have the shims out of the valve can you leave them out to remove the next set, or do they have to go back in only to come out later to replace with the new shim?

[Mustang]

I know it's a pain in the ......... but you need to put a shim back in there before you roll the cam lobe over on it or else you could very easily damage the cam lobe or bend the edge of the shim bucket , either scenario is bad .
The next time you have to do a shim job if you recorded the sizes that were in each position it eliminates a lot of xtra work because you already know what shim size is in there .

[Joe Geddes]

Thanks for that, glad I asked as this is my first time with getting this deep into the engine and adjustment. I have spent allot of time reading all of the posts and found them to be a great help. I would not have tried this without all of the helpful advice and pictures.

Thanks again for all of the help

[EvilBetty]

I just got done cleaning off all the RTV the factory slopped all over the head, and there is some tiny trace amounts of RTV that flaked off into the pooled engine oil on the head.  Do I need to remove all of this or will the oil filter catch it?

My plan was to run the engine for about a tank to catch all the excess dirt / debris and then change the oil.

[Mustang]

I would try and soak up the pools of oil with some shop towels and hopefully pick up most of the "debris" with them . I would also run the engine for only a few minutes , not a tankful, and new filter and oil right away .

[iansoady]

RTV can be a real problem as it can easily block up oil ways. I couldn't work out why my Velo smoked so much on startup till I found the previous owner had slathered the stuff everywhere and it had blocked the oil drain from the rocker box.

RTV is great stuff but you only need the thinnest smear, and a smear of grease on one of the mating surfaces helps when it's dismantling time.

[EvilBetty]

I got it all cleaned out.   Was not near as much there as I thought there was.

I sealed it back up without the sealant.  :shock:

Thanks again everyone.

[atokad]

I got it all cleaned out.   Was not near as much there as I thought there was.

I sealed it back up without the sealant.  :shock:

Thanks again everyone.

So EB, it appears from your posts that this took you how long? about 5 weeks, is that right?

Not dissing you, just figuring it will take me some time too and I was trying to judge by reading these posts.

Last valves I checked/adjusted were on a 1974 Honda XL 350 in about 1974 and they were not shim over bucket style.


Jeez, seeing that in writing makes me feel so old.

[EvilBetty]

Yes but I really took my time with it.  It was the arse of winter and I had it tore apart in my basement working on it as I had time.

It really didn't take more than maybe 8 hours of total work, and that's including all the trial and error and figuring out the process.  Next time it will probably take 2 half days (excluding exchanging shims at the dealer) if you have all the other parts and tools on hand.

[chilly]

Just wanted to add one more tip to this great sticky....

Instead if pfutzing with the rear wheel to rotate the cams, it takes all of 30 seconds to remove the inspection cover from the right side crank cover (ee manual pg. 3.7 - camshafts).  From there, you just rotate via the crank bolt - one hand, while you're looking down at the cams - 10000000 times easier.  Shop manual has you do this when working with the cams.... don't know why they skipped it for the valve work.

And just a vote... I always just pull the cams.  Probably burns 30minutes each way (on/off), but it's straightforward, and everything is easy to reach (just follow the manual exactly - especially "notes"; and dont drop stuff into the crankcase).  Once off, it's a a magnet and a dental pick, and in 5 seconds, the shim is in your hand.  Just personal preference... I hate wrenching when I get frustrated - so I usually take a the longer route if it's a little smoother sailing.  (edit: now with Mustangs tool though... not as big of a deal getting ripped by the dealer)

[MikeBenzon]

I hope I haven't missed this in the thread, but I found a fairly easy way to remove the shims from their bucket, I use compressed air through a tube type nozzle on the end of valve made to attach to the end of the compressor hose. I direct the air stream at the notch in the bucket used to access the shim with a screwdriver. Some times it just pops right out, other times a takes a while. I try to direct the air so that it eventually flows under the shim and break the suction that holds them in there so well. Hope this helps.

[EvilBetty]

Cool trick, get much oil slung around when you do that?  I usually work on my bike in the basement over winter.  I have plenty of room and central heat!

I've got lots of things down there I wouldn't want oil blown all over.