Ignition switch removal

[RobH]

Hi guys,

Still got a persistent problem with my 94.

First off, the ignition switch isn't always making a good contact, I sometimes need to wiggle the key or turn it back slightly to get the starter to engage. I can't see how to remove the ignition switch for dressing/cleaning - anti tamper and all that, anyone removed theirs? I don't think this is the cause of my persistent problem, which only appears to affect cylinder 3 (cam chain end), I'm assuming all 3 would be affected by a dodgy ignition switch.

Now to the main problem...Just rechecked shims, put new plugs in, replaced air filter to try and resolve this issue but no luck so far. Cylinder 3 seems not to be firing regularly, the bike doesnt idle particularly well and the rhs exhaust 'chuffs' every 5 seconds or so, presumably when it actually fires. I went for a short run and rebalanced the carbs. Pulling the coil on #3 didn't really affect the idle apart from the chuffing stopped so I assume #3 must be the culprit. Pulling either of the others stops the engine. Pulled plug #3 and it was more or less as new, pulled plug #1 and it was black. To me this says #3 is only firing occasionally or isn't getting enough fuel.

I pulled the carbs (again!) and all looked ok. I swapped the coil for a spare I had and was getting a good regular spark with the plug laying on the head. I've checked wiring continuity from the ignitor and all seems good.

It's now looking more likely a carb problem to me. Maybe fuel /float heights? Unfortunately I don't have access to the special tool for Mikuni carbs :-(. Anyone else got any thoughts?

Cheers

RobH

[aeronca]

when you swapped the #3 ignitor, did you install the plug and then start the bike? even though you may be getting what appears to be good spark, either the primary or secondary windings may be crap. the thing may even ohm out good too, but all in all it still going to not run right. i would suggest swapping either the  #1 or #2 with the #3 and see if the problem follows - if so then replace with some nology coils. dont mess with the carbs untill you fully rule out the coils.     eric

[JetdocX]

RobH, there are many sets of contacts within the ignition switch.  Do you have a wiring manual of the switch?  If not, let me know and I can send you one.  There is a connector where you can gain easy access for checking with an ohmmeter.  If you find the offending contact, just bypass the offending contact by cutting and splicing and running it through another set or just bypass the switch if it's not powered until the key is turned on.

I have two stock coils that I can sell you if you want them.  I removed them and went with the Nology coils.

[RobH]

Thanks for the replies - I take it noboby has managed to remove the ignition swith then ..  

I've changed to direct fire pencil type coils (from a 595 I think). I have swapped around and I'm now pretty sure it's not a coil issue.

I've got the Triumph manual with full wiring info but thanks for the offer. It's the switch contact for the starter that's showing an obvious problem but I take that as an indication that there may be other, not so obvious, contact problems so I really need to take a proper look inside.

Cheers

RobH

[Mustang]

Thanks for the replies - I take it noboby has managed to remove the ignition swith then ..  

I've changed to direct fire pencil type coils (from a 595 I think). I have swapped around and I'm now pretty sure it's not a coil issue.

I've got the Triumph manual with full wiring info but thanks for the offer. It's the switch contact for the starter that's showing an obvious problem but I take that as an indication that there may be other, not so obvious, contact problems so I really need to take a proper look inside.

Cheers

RobH

The ignition switch is held in the triple top clamp with anti tamper screws .
you have to destroy them to get the switch out and then replace with new anti tamper screws that are designed to be installed and then the heads ( the driven part) snap off after reaching the proper torque setting .
the only way to work on it is to remove the top clamp . You will need the special wrenches to remove the lower triple clamp which will then let you remove the top clamp from the anti theft bracket that is welded on the frame ..
Another way is to remove the fork tubes  and take the top crown nut off the steering stem and with your gas tank removed and the handlebars removed there is just barely enough room to turn the top clamp all the way to the right and I mean really force it hard to the right and you can then clear the anti theft bracket on the frame and while holding it to the right lift straight up and the top clamp should be able to come off and now you can get at the bolts that hold the switch in .
Easy right
by the time you get the switch out you will have most of the front end in pieces laying all over the garage .

And if you think you are not getting fuel to #3 which is possible have you checked to make sure the inline filter in the t fitting between #3 and #2 is clean and or removed . also 97tiger (john) found that his steamer would sporadically act like it was running out of fuel to all cylinders and switching to reserve would clear the problem and then he could go back to the main tap setting only to have it repeat again .
He discovered the cause was the nylon filter on the petcock main pipe inside the tank was the problem , too fine of a mesh to let a proper amount of fuel through when running . he removed it completely and put a inline filter in the fuel pipe between the petcock and the carbs and life is good

[RobH]

LOL- that's a lot of information!!

I recently took the top clamp off, as you say, I wrestled it round with the forks removed (was replacing the gaitors anyway). Unfortunately I didn't realize there was a problem with the switch at the time and didn't pay much attention, I was hoping to get the switch off without wasting another Sunday morning... oh well...

I haven't checked the inline carb filter - I wasn't aware there was one in that location. I've already cleaned up the petcock filters, they were a bit clogged, flushed the tank out.

One last thing, I can't find any reliable data for the compression pressure, tested #1 and #3 at the weekend (couldn't get my adapter on #2 for obvious reasons). Anyone tested theirs and know it to be correct?? Mine appeared very low but this may be my gauge, cyls were within 10% of each other.

Cheers

H