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Non-Stock Carb Jetting settings

Started by tropicalwallah, March 09, 2011, 05:12:21 PM

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tropicalwallah

Hi,

I have been working on jetting my Carbs recently, and i would like some feedback on what non-stock jetting others have found to work well for them.

My 95 steamer has  very noisy (unrestricted) staintunes fitted by the previous owner. The air-box has the second snorkel fitted and the air-filter element has been replaced with a K&N filter element.

Valve clearances are perfect and are still close to factory at 60 000 Km
The Coils are the good ones, and are hooked up to iridium plugs

The carbs are in good clean condition with new o-rings fitted to the floats.
I have synchronized the carbs and set the idle to 950 - 1050 rpm.

The bike idles smoothly, is very grunty down low even with a 19 tooth sprocket, and it revs out to 8000rpm with no flat spots. I run with 98 octane unleaded and the fuel economy is O.K, but not spectacular.

I am at sea level in a hot climate (Far North Queensland) 30' to 36' Celsius and humidity at 85%

My settings are:
Needles in second richest clip position
Main Jets #122.5
Pilot Jets #40 with pilot screws 2 turns out from closed

I have some new #42.5 pilot jets i want to try out.
Has anyone had success with the #42.5 pilot jets?
Would i need to adjust the pilot screws from 2 turns out to 1.5 turns out?
I have also considered  going to 125, 122.5, 125 on the main jets with the 122.5 being the center jet. Would jetting the center cylinder slightly leaner give any advantage???

Thanks
Tropical Wallah

Mustang

Quote from: "tropicalwallah"........................

The bike idles smoothly, is very grunty down low even with a 19 tooth sprocket, and it revs out to 8000rpm with no flat spots. I run with 98 octane unleaded and the fuel economy is O.K, but not spectacular.

I gotta ask.....If it's running that good why screw with it ? Ride it and enjoy it . with your setup I think you are too rich but if it runs good why fool with it ?

D-Fuzz

Hopefully it is ok if I chime in here with a related question.

I am looking through the service records that came with my bike and at the 6000 mile service, the work order says:

- #110 main jets installed
- needle raised 2 positions (would not run properly on richest position)
- install snorkel on air box (too lean with second snorkel)

Now, when I got the bike, it seemed to run ok, but it was tough to start and had no low-end power.  When the bike was taken apart to clean the carbs, I noticed that the snorkel on the RH was open, so I put the cap back on it.  I also noticed that the cap had 5 little holes punched in it.  When I put it back together, I covered the holes.  After the carbs were cleaned, the bike ran much better but I noticed a drop in fuel mileage and a bit of black soot at the tailpipes.  Now, the altitude where the bike had previously been ridden was approximately 450ft, versus the altitude now at 1900ft.  

So, my question is, what is the proper set-up?
Scott

1996 Tiger 885, black

Jaythro

My thinking is to Run the middle slightly richer like we did the old Kawa triples Slightly richer will keep chamber temps "slightly" lower

I'm doing my Carbs Soon and Must just make a note because she's thirsty and tail cans are showing rich BUT that may be still the original air filter at 49,000 miles

Mustang

Quote from: "D-Fuzz"Hopefully it is ok if I chime in here with a related question.

I am looking through the service records that came with my bike and at the 6000 mile service, the work order says:

- #110 main jets installed
- needle raised 2 positions (would not run properly on richest position)
- install snorkel on air box (too lean with second snorkel)

Now, when I got the bike, it seemed to run ok, but it was tough to start and had no low-end power.  When the bike was taken apart to clean the carbs, I noticed that the snorkel on the RH was open, so I put the cap back on it.  I also noticed that the cap had 5 little holes punched in it.  When I put it back together, I covered the holes.  After the carbs were cleaned, the bike ran much better but I noticed a drop in fuel mileage and a bit of black soot at the tailpipes.  Now, the altitude where the bike had previously been ridden was approximately 450ft, versus the altitude now at 1900ft.  

So, my question is, what is the proper set-up?
105's for main jets and run the needle clip in middle notch and 1 1/2 turns on the pilot screws will make the soot go away and it should run pretty sweet .

D-Fuzz

Scott

1996 Tiger 885, black

tropicalwallah



[/quote]
I gotta ask.....If it's running that good why screw with it ? Ride it and enjoy it . with your setup I think you are too rich but if it runs good why fool with it ?[/quote]


I love to tinker with machines.
Recently i worked over my Yamaha Vino with a 150cc Big Bore kit, Hot cam, high comp piston, Ignition advanced, Modded air-box and exhaust, carb, de-smogged, and re jetted and a transmission upgrade to harness the enormous power output. :-)

The time and money spent on the project was illogical, but the pleasure of
tinkering with the scoot was priceless, and the top speed has increased
by 25kmph which would indicated that i must have got something right.

tropicalwallah

Hi,

The 42.5 pilot jet was a dead end and waste of time!

The Jetting for the Daytona super 111 is listed on

worldoftriumph.com as:

Pilot #40
Main Jets, outer carbs #125, center carb #120

I have read in a triumphrat.net forum that the reason for the middle
jet being slightly leaner is that the airbox restricts the airflow to the
center carb.

With a very unrestricted exhaust and airbox, my setup runs well with:

Pilot #40 @ 2 turns
Main Jets, outer carbs #125, center carb #122.5



Tropicalwallah