Electrosport stator

[MikeBenzon]

Can anyone tell me if they have ordered a stator from Electrosport and how it performs. I am in need of a new stator and I am interested in this product.

[Stretch]

I had one, and shitcanned it.  The Electrosports don't come with the terminals and connector installed... you have to measure, cut, crimp, and install your own connector.  And they don't supply the rubber grommet at all... you have to seal it yourself with silicone.


I was very satisfied with the stator from Rick's Motorsports Electrics.  Theirs is a plug-n-play replacement.  Excellent customer service, as well.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Or sending your Triumph stator to Custom Rewind to have it rebuilt.

http://www.customrewind.com/

Be sure to replace your Regulator / Rectifier while you're at it, as the Stator and R/R usually damage each other when one bites the dust.

[MikeBenzon]

Thanks Stretch, I ordered both this morning.

[MikeBenzon]

I called my dealer yesterday to find out what the OEM parts cost and was I shocked at the price they quoted, $400 something for the stator and $300 something for the R/R. How can Rick's and Electrosport sell theirs for so much less? I hope Rick's is up to the task.

[Mustang]

I called my dealer yesterday to find out what the OEM parts cost and was I shocked at the price they quoted, $400 something for the stator and $300 something for the R/R. How can Rick's and Electrosport sell theirs for so much less? I hope Rick's is up to the task.

same reason the wheel bearings cost 50-60 bucks apiece from Triumph for the same exact bearing you can get at a bearing supplier for 10 bucks each ...........profit margin markup

[MikeBenzon]

Stretch,
I pulled off the stator cover today and about an ounce of oil spilled out on the floor from the stator compartment, is this common or normal? I laid down the bike on the left side last winter, could that be the reason there was a little oil in the cover?

[Stretch]

From reading various accounts of folks replacing their stators, it's quite common to see a teaspoon or two of engine oil dripping out of the case when the stator cover is removed, but I'm not sure if there's actually supposed to be oil in that area or not.

A couple guys here (myself included) have had the Triumph stator rewound because it's a bit thicker and can hold more wire.  It's also cheaper than buying a new stator.  In speaking with the guys at Custom Rewind, they're pretty sure that the oil inside the stator cover is contributing to the stator failure problem a few of us have been having.  They believe that the oil is attacking the insulating varnish on the copper wiring, allowing the coils of wire to short against themselves.

Their solution is to coat the newly-rewound stator with a high-temperature marine-grade epoxy, effectively sealing the wires inside a plastic case.  Any engine oil that does make it into the stator case is unable to make contact with the wires and their insulation.

As for the oil seal... for some reason, these seals aren't keeping the oil out of the stator case.  I'd guess that of the instances I have read about, maybe 3/4 of them had oil in the case.

So... since the seals don't seem to be capable of keeping oil out of the stator cases, I had Custom Rewind seal the stator itself.

I'm not saying that oil in the stator cover is the cause of all these charging system failures.  Mine crapped out because the Regulator / Rectifier died and spiked the stator, killing it as well.  The replacement stator was an Electrosport, but I wasn't happy with it at all.

Since then, I've tried a few different combinations of stators and R/R's, looking for a bullet-proof charging system.  What I've come up with is the epoxy-coated rewound Triumph stator by Custom Rewind, and a MOFSET-type Regulator / Rectifier from a late-model Honda CBR1000, mounted on the outside of the bike so it can get cooler air.

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6180

So far, so good.

[MikeBenzon]

Thanks Stretch. I intend to keep my old stator and send it in for a rewind some time later. I will keep in mind the epoxy coating and have that preformed as well.
On the subject of heat, I suppose that the off road riding I have done contributed to the R/R failure. The slow pace with insufficient air flow for the R/R probably helped the R/R to fail. I noticed while riding off road that the radiator fan comes on a lot, which means this riding creates a much warmer environment for the entire bike. I have been looking for reasons the Tiger seems to have this problem, while the Sprint ST and others with the same stator and R/R do not. Possibly it is the off road riding.

[Stretch]

I agree that low speeds (and the subsequent reduced airflow to the R/R) may be a root cause of Tiger R/R's dying.  Mine died two days into the TransAmerica Trail in Tennessee.

Like I said in another post, these kinds of charging system failures aren't restricted to Tigers.  The BMW F650GS has a very similar problem because its R/R is tucked out of sight, so as to be aesthetically pleasing to the eye.  When some 650GS owners started troubleshooting and experimenting, they found that the R/R was getting too hot to touch after a trail ride.  One guy moved his into the airbox, so that the draft of the air moving into the throttle bodies would always have a supply of fresh cool air surrounding the R/R.

That inspired me to start fiddling with the location of mine.  After having run a MOFSET R/R in the open air for several months now, I don't think it's necessary to mount the thing to a copper plate with heat sinks.  The copper never even gets warm.  Due to better materials and its efficient design, this type of R/R simply doesn't generate the amount of heat that is seen with older SCR-type R/R's (like the Tiger's).

So I'm hoping that with the Stator protected from the engine oil, the new MOSFET Regulator / Rectifier out in the fresh air, big wires, and a Sasquatch Fix with a Maxi-Fuse, that my charging system problems are a thing of the past.  Time will tell.

[MikeBenzon]

"From reading various accounts of folks replacing their stators, it's quite common to see a teaspoon or two of engine oil dripping out of the case when the stator cover is removed, but I'm not sure if there's actually supposed to be oil in that area or not. "

I was thinking about the idea of tapping a hole in the bottom of the stator cover and threading a plug into it so that I can drain the compartment from time to time, especially if I had a tip over on the left side. Can anyone see any harm in doing this?

[John Stenhouse]

I think the seal is supposed to stop oil getting in, replace the seal and it should cure it.

Can't see a reason why tapping it would be a problem though.

[EvilBetty]

The seal prevents the oil from passing from the alternator casing, through the breather hose into the air box.  This is on older 2005's and earlier.  The newer bikes use a labyrinth breather system.

Completely normal for there to be oil in with the alternator.  The longer it sits before you open it up, the more of it will have drained back into the sump.

If you really feel the need to drain the oil out, release one of the engine bolts below the alternator.

[Sin_Tiger]

Usually it's oil vapours that cause damage to winding insulation but the oil in there shouldn't get that hot, ask a fridge engineer who has dealt with large hermatic motors. The varnishes used on windings does not last forever and will deterorate over time but expoxy will last a lot longer as Strech of the bombproof charging system says.

Not sure I'd like to put a really hot rectifier in an air box though, I'd be more tempted to bolt it onto a bigger heatsink plate astheics or not.

Cant see a problem putting a drain plug in suffice it wouldn't compromise the casing strength.

[EvilBetty]

Release one of these, and you'll have your drain plug...

[Tom Herold]

I did the Custom Rewinds fix on my stator after one from ricks went bad after a few months of use, and so far so good!

Also, somewhere in the charging system failures thread I have a few pics of where I relocated my RR to and can say between the epoxy coating and air flowing over the RR, I'm gaining more faith in the ol' Tigger everyday in that regard.