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Wiring accessories to a common source--a winter project

Started by tokalosh, February 10, 2010, 09:28:06 PM

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tokalosh

I figure some of you are stuck in the snow and might be looking for side projects...
I was inspired by some of the postings about setting up a common power source for accessories, so I thought I'd add my twist to it.
Not content with buying a kit from Twisted Throttle, I set out to make my own.  The biggest challenge was finding a secure place to put it and I had to make a mounting plate because the power terminal was so big--10 positions!--it's all I could find, and I would have preferred about 5.
After doing the Sasquatch RR mod, I wired this with a relay tripped by the rear running lights.  That way I won't accidentally drain the battery if I happen to leave anything switched on...
To avoid re-inventing the wheel, I won't post the wiring details, but just show you the plate I made out of a cutting board.  I have the template if anyone is inclined...!

BTW My Girly is an '06.
common sense just ain\'t so common these days
-------------------------------------------
\'06 Farkled Girly
(\'93 K75)
(\'95 Honda Sahara 350)

iansoady

Looks good, but I hope (a) the input is fused and (b) you have some sort of firmly fitting insulated cover to stop stray bits of metal shorting it out.
Ian.

1931 Sunbeam Model 10
1999 Honda SLR650

tokalosh

I wouldn't dream of such a setup without a fuse!  wouldn't want that shorting out on the road....

it's under a Corbin seat and although there's plenty of space, I would definitely feel better if there was some sort of a plastic cover.  While looking for the power block, the fuse boxes I found were too big, but maybe I can rig some kind of lid for it.

 Anyone got a fix for this one?  :idea:
common sense just ain\'t so common these days
-------------------------------------------
\'06 Farkled Girly
(\'93 K75)
(\'95 Honda Sahara 350)

Mustang

a quick look here found these
any length you want with available covers
price is reasonable

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7527k21/=5rutro

coachgeo

Quote from: "tokalosh"... maybe I can rig some kind of lid for it.

 Anyone got a fix for this one?  :idea:

NOTE: I'm making this up as I write. Use at your own risk. Expect Trial and error.

. Slab it with DiElectric Grease (unless you think it will run all over the place when it gets hot?)

. layer of cellophane wrap in the area.  

. Make a cardboard form to go around an area that you will fill with expanding foam forming a cover for this junction panel.  

. Make sure you coat everything with cellophane or with grease that you don't want the foam to stick too including bottom of the seat.

. Fill the form high enough so right after filling the area you can quickly close the seat and let it squash the foam to fit customized the space in the area under the seat.  

.. Move quick and remember the foam expands so you might not have to fill very much cause it will still expand while the seat is closed.

. Let it dry.

. Lift seat.  

. Take dried foam and the forms out.  

. Trim up the shape of the new cap you just made with a knife.

. wrap this new cap in cellophane?

. install it.... shutting the seat to holds it secure.
COACH POSER (Till Tribota Tiger's done & I'm riding it)

tokalosh

Custom cover... I like it.  That expanding foam stuff is very cool.

I think i'm gonna experiment with that idea and get back to you.
common sense just ain\'t so common these days
-------------------------------------------
\'06 Farkled Girly
(\'93 K75)
(\'95 Honda Sahara 350)

oxnsox

You can also buy Termination blocks, with plastic covers from marine stores.... (Brands: BlueSeas, Hella) they'll cost you more of course, but should be tin plated (won't corrode/oxidise) and have good insulation and mouting options, because they're made to do exactly this sort of distribution.  Auto stores tend to have lower quality items.
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  If it ain't Farkled...  don't fix it....
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