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YAPI - noobie

Started by BruKen, March 23, 2010, 11:22:50 AM

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Geoff D

Bit of luck there then Bruce  8)
The older I get the faster I was...

BruKen

Yes Geoff. I do believe so, but I will pull out the micrometer just to be sure

Clearer pics




Geoff D

Thet look brand new...

I might have me new bike for Easter week so might ride over &
see Greenie if you're around & put a few miles on new un at the
same time.
The older I get the faster I was...

BruKen

That will be good. Just give me advance warning so I can get Her Majesty out from the back of the garage.
1 x stripped tigger is eating up a lot of room :)

BruKen

hi Geoff. Got the voltage regulator in and all is back to normal. Charging at a nice 14.7 volts



I got to feeling so nostalgic over the old girl I even gave her a wash down with real soap :)
Please tell me you don't want her anymore :x






Anyway, she is ready at the gate for you :)


Geoff D

Quote from: "BruKen"I got to feeling so nostalgic over the old girl I even gave her a wash down with real soap :)
Please tell me you don't want her anymore :x

NO  :violent1   :lol:
The older I get the faster I was...

BruKen

Well while I am waiting for gaskets packs I have continued unable to leave well enough alone.
For me the easiest way to check the valve seats when the head is off is to pour a little petrol into the intake and exhaust ports. If there is any leakage through the valve head they need to be reseated. All my intakes were fine but the exhausts weeped slightly. Probably a carbon buildup, so I decided to do the whole batch as I will be replaceing the valve stem seals. My valve spring suppressor is in Safferland and I am not paying Halfords 44 quid for a one off. You can use a pillar drill, but I prefer a G clamp. Take a 19mm sparkplug or long reach socket and grind away two sides. Silver solder to the G clamp so



Make sure there are no burrs and grease the socket liberally. You want no burrs and a 19mm socket so that it cannot scratch the spring well surfaces. That would be a bad idea.

A magnetic grab tool is most handy here



Making sure I remember which valve is which





Finally all out



Right, reground and seated all intake valves.
Boy I hate that job

Now for the exhaust valves
Any ideas or tips on getting the carbon deposits off without abrasion anyone?

aeronca

dude, i wish you were my neighbor :lol:
Steamers Rule!!!
It's Tire, not Tyre

GO SEAHAWKS!!!!!!

Bixxer Bob

Ken, if you want to clean up that head surface before assembly and while you've got it stripped, but without going to the expense of a skim you could use an old trick I was shown as an apprentice.

Tape some fine grade wet and dry to a piece of plate glass (because you know it's perfectly flat) a mirror works too as long as it's thick glass, then ease the head back and forth across the abrasive under it's own weight, no pressing on.  It only takes a few strokes to take of a lot of the roughened surface without taking any appreciable thickness off the head. Make them long strokes, a complete pass every time, so that you treat all the surface evenly ie start with the head on the paper and then slide it across until it clears the paper then start again. Just go careful if you decide to do it.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

BruKen

Thanks Bob, good tip. However the photo makes it look far worse than it is. There is no corrosion as such, just discolouration where there was a difference in gasket material. The bright is where it met metal gasket bits, the discoloured the paper.

BruKen

Well something different after finishing the exhaust valves.

Concidering how corroded they were I am not displeased



Almost a mirror finish (note thebreezs block wall) :)


BruKen

She'll never look new. The object is to make her look tidy. We shall see.

once they've got to the stage when they leak corrosion your options are limited

clutch cover before:

Sin_Tiger

That is pretty decent looking for a rattle can job Ken, interested to see how it stands up on the street.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

BruKen

It should hold up well enough. I used a high heat engine enamel (not ultra high heat) and as I have a compressor these were not done with a rattle can (it's not the spray job that sucks but the eroded subject. I thought it prudent to remove the corrosion but not over polish it down to a smooth base at the expense of wall thickness and strength). What you see is only the first coat, I will put at least one more on. If I don't get at least 3 years before it blemishes I will be disappointed.

Geoff D

C'mon Bruce..... whats appenin, we're all waiting here ya know  :roll:

 :new_popcornsmiley
The older I get the faster I was...