D.A.R. Parts in the UK

[Suitor_Stu]

Right, so I've already spoke of my plight in the other thread by me here so I'll spare you that!  The just of things are that my bike has sheared the Alternator bolt on what looks to be the clutch side - here's a few pics to demonstrate what's happened;



Now as far as I can see, the threads linked in the 'Steamer Wisdom' thread seem to do a pretty good job of covering the actual fix involved - the only thing is that all the info about parts needed is linked to American sites.  Any of you Brits (or anyone from Europe even) know where I can get the relevant kit to fix the problem a bit more locally?

I've done a search for this, and the only link I came up with was for this site, which supplies 10.9 bolts which were rubbished by another poster as being the same guage ones that caused the original problems.  On top of that, there are no gaskets/cush drive rubbers that would prob be better replacing too, so does anyone have an idea where I can source the whole package?

Cheers,
Stu

[Mustang]

Jack Lilley's
or any triumph dealer for that matter

[Suitor_Stu]

Jack Lilley's
or any triumph dealer for that matter

Thanks, have emailed them about the problem as they do not list the models of the steamer era on their site.

Main problem is a) I live in the arse end of nowhere, so going to a dealer isn't an option and b) if I did get to one to ask, I wouldn't know EXACTLY what I was looking for, so would prob come away with the wrong thing.

[Sin_Tiger]

Give JL a ring and ask to speak to Kath Lilley, she knows her stuff and although not much is listed, they do keep quite abit of stock and get a fast delivery line direct from teh factory.

[nightrunner]

The stock DIN 10.9 bolts are not bad.  They are equivalent to US grade 8, which is right up there in strength.  There are grade 12.9 bolts which are aircraft grade.  What causes the break is the vane is not an exact fit on the splines.  There is a tiny tiny bit of jiggle.  Over time the frequent forward and reverse torque on that shaft can cause the bolt to slowly get tighter and tighter until the head finally snaps off.  It does not happen in every case.  The trick is to use a flat washer and to use a good semi-permanent thread locker when you reassemble.  

Were you able to get the other end of bolt out of the shaft?  That will be the hard part of the repair.  

The others here know better about getting parts but surely someplace will mail you the parts.  They (cush rubbers, etc) are all stock Triumph bits.

Good luck with it!

[Mustang]

The DAR that you have is the engine side ............there was a new updated replacement part for this ,
It has a new drive shaft that is hollow and uses a nut and thru bolt rather than a bolt on either side of the shaft

you will need to replace the shaft
to access it you will need to remove the clutch and then use the new shaft to push the old one out so you don't drop the sprag clutch into the guts of the engine .

or you can repair what you have if you can get the bit of broken bolt out , but it is usually easier to buy the new updated part
you need :
one qty. item # 1
two qty. item #2
one qty. item #15
one qty. item #25
and if you want new cush rubbers they are item # 20

I don't have the triumph p/n's as this schematic is from bike bandit
but you could fax this to JL and I am certain you will get the right parts