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Leaking oil from oilcanister.

Started by Persson, August 20, 2011, 10:57:32 PM

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Persson

Quote from: "BruKen"
Quote from: "Persson"
Quote from: "BruKen"All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.

Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.

But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?

Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately

No, if the repairs are good it should feel very tight. If I was to venture a guess I'd say your oil may have either foamed or still not enough in, if the bladder has been inflated. Unfortunately if there is air in the system you have to bleed it. The proper way to do that is by dissembling the cartridge as explained in the pdf. strip it down. If you have basic mechanical skills, can read and follow instructions, you'll be surprised at how simple the oil service is. It is fiddly, like bleeding brakes, but not hard.

I´m sorry, I realize when I read it back, that  by the last post I wrote it might appeare that I tried to fixe the problem. So have not been done.
I have not touched the bike at all yet. I do not want to tear it down before I know how to handle the problem, with running the risk of forgetting how to fit it all together again.

But it seems like I have to remove not only the little oil canister, but the whole rear suspension aswell?

Fruck!
I haven´t even done 50 km´s  since I bought it, and already have 2 big issues in a catch 22 situation.

-First the leads/coils turns out to be faulty, which one is faulty can not be determined before I take the bike for a spin, wich can not be done before the suspension is together...

Anyone know if there is any other Triumph model that share the same suspension system with the Steamer?

But hell, it looks good in the garage...  
  :twisted:  :twisted:  :twisted:  :twisted:  :twisted:
1998 Black Steamer, 1961 Panhead

JetdocX

That canister is an auxiliary reservior for the rear shock.  It has nothing to do with setting ride height.  The adjustment on there is for dampening.  

Ride height is set using the spring preload.

Here is a wealth of suspension information from a world-renowned guru.  I call him the "Tire Whisperer".  He set my Aprilia up at the track two weeks ago and I couldn't be happier.

http://www.feelthetrack.com/tuning_guide.htm
From parts unknown.

BruKen

You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit. All shocks need to be serviced or replaced at fairly regular intervals even though this fact is by and large ignored until there is an obvious problem. ( I've read annual oil change recommendations, but this may be a bit obsessive). You wouldn't replace an engine because it needed a service, and if you had sense you'd service it before a problem from neglect developed. So to the shock and forks. They're pretty critical to your safety afterall.

Oh, and expect a significant increase in ride hight when done. Inflating the bladder does stiffen up the static sag. It's counter intuitive because that is normally achieved by winding the spring tighter. Maybe my spring has gone soft but mine raised the rear close to half an inch when I reinflated her.

Mustang

Quote from: "BruKen"You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit.
My Ohlins makes the Showa Pc of shit seem like a pogo stick :D

BruKen

No doubt, but your Ohlins need servicing just as often. Do you bin it after a couple years or have it serviced  :roll:  
I'm pleased enough with the Showa. It's no Wilbers or Ohlins but I have another couple of bikes in the garage with aftermarket shocks on. They are comparable and the Showa is fit for purpose.

Mustang

 
if I could get another Ohlins I would bin the showa on Tigger 3 in a heartbeat , It was the best thing I ever did for tigger 2.
It's like the difference between a tuesday afternoon   and a swedish supermodel

rybes

:ImaPoser  :ImaPoser  nice comparison
reiberman reiberman rides his tiger as hard as he can (sung to spiderman tune)

rybes

you could always use these as a matchin compliment

reiberman reiberman rides his tiger as hard as he can (sung to spiderman tune)

Persson

Quote from: "BruKen"You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit. All shocks need to be serviced or replaced at fairly regular intervals even though this fact is by and large ignored until there is an obvious problem. ( I've read annual oil change recommendations, but this may be a bit obsessive). You wouldn't replace an engine because it needed a service, and if you had sense you'd service it before a problem from neglect developed. So to the shock and forks. They're pretty critical to your safety afterall.

Oh, and expect a significant increase in ride hight when done. Inflating the bladder does stiffen up the static sag. It's counter intuitive because that is normally achieved by winding the spring tighter. Maybe my spring has gone soft but mine raised the rear close to half an inch when I reinflated her.

Yep, I have an Yamaha 250 yzf motocross and a KTM 350 enduromachine
as well, and it is once a year service on the suspension for both those bikes.

However, for those kind of bikes, there are workshops who gladly change oil and seals.
But when asked upon the Triumph shock, they go:
"Eh. Watt?"
1998 Black Steamer, 1961 Panhead

BruKen

Quote from: "Mustang"  
if I could get another Ohlins I would bin the showa on Tigger 3 in a heartbeat , It was the best thing I ever did for tigger 2.
It's like the difference between a tuesday afternoon   and a swedish supermodel

Everything is relative. If I had the opportunity I'd still do both. Unfortunately, the missus is not so forgiving  :twisted:

Persson

Been putting stones on my driveway this summer, which means the garage has been more or less locked down. (And filled with all junk that previously resided outside the garage.)
So I have not had time to tear the old Steamer down.
But as I read that some has replaced the original shock with aftermarket or ones of different brand, I´m thinking that perhaps it will be easier to replace it with something else.
I´m just about over the dwarfline in length, i.e 176 cm= 5.7 ft
So a shorter shock would not be bad if there´s one around.

Anyone know if there are rear shocks of other brands  that will fit bolt on or with minor mods?
 :?:  :?:  :?:
1998 Black Steamer, 1961 Panhead