Maint time

[WVdyhrd]

Ok guys. So I have some questions. Or more likely ONE big one. I'm doing research, but thought I'd search for a consensus from the wise people here also.

I recently purchased a 2001 Tiger Triumph 955i. (pics on "newbie saying howdy" thread). I'm loving it but it's time to break it down to basics. It's sitting over 21,000mi and I'm trying to figure out my maintaining issues. The p.o. did a good job on maintaining it regularly, It has had a valve adjust, oil, chain, sprockets, brake pads (currently working on the stuck pucks on my front) etc etc. within the last 1000mi. I don't wanna super tune it or get into much like that. Just want to ride it and keep it close to stock, with the exception of it's current farkles.

What I'm trying to find out is what I need to be looking at right now with the mileage I have on it. ARe there certain things that can be generalized with the mileage as to when things need to be checked and done? I'm not looking so much for how to just yet, but just what to check. I know the normal stuff that's always there, cables, fastners, etc. But are there any tiger quirks around this mileage that I need to be aware of?

Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks in advance guys!

[Mustang]

No ,Mike took good care of his tigger , at 21 k you need to ride it is all
at 30 k check the valves and get a service manual it will tell you when things need to be checked or done.................
this should keep you busy for awhile http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025)

[KuzzinKenny]

This should come in handy...........

http://www.triumph.co.uk/media/enTiger9 ... nwards.pdf (http://www.triumph.co.uk/media/enTiger955cc2001onwards.pdf)

download and print it out  :)

KK

[WVdyhrd]

Thanks guys

Ya stang I know mike did and kept a history :)

And thanks for the checklist I'll go through it and compare :)

I was just looking for possible particular things :) and yes both those links will keep me busy.


p.s. Attempted to fit new brake pads per manual on the front

Unable to depress pistons far enough to fit the new ones in though the old ones(less then 2m left) still fit back in.

Plans
1- first remove resorvoir cap and attempt to ensure there isn't too much fluid
2- failing 1^ remove caliper, clean pistons, pray i don't have to rebuild the whole deal

thoughts?

[iansoady]

It's always a good idea to clean the pistons before you push them back as otherwise you're scraping a load of muck past the seals.

It can be hard to push them back in situ - whip the caliper off and use a G cramp with a bit of wood to spread the load.

[Jaythro]

If they are stiff DO NOT push them back in !!! You're be heading for a trip with no brakes or over the bars

Pump the pistons out untill nearly completely out and remove brake pipe and seal it with a bit of inner tube and vise grips over the end this shoudl stop the fluid pouring out!

Remove the pistons and clean them and remove the Seals and wiper rings and clean any salts from behind the seals clean the groove of the wiper ring of dirt / salts We call the seal closest to the disc the wiper ring

Free up bleed nipple before reassembly IF it's tight Don't force it!
Set the calliper in a bowl of really hot water for 2  mins tap the nipple sharply with a small hammer Directly on top no sideways force! and it should come out real easy! put some anti sieze on the threads and stick it in and blow the calliper out with an airline to remove any water

Reassemble with rubber grease on the seals or if you can't get any? a smear of vaseline has sorted mine out ! Push the pistons completely in!

Have the master cylinder cap off and topped with fluid and the nipple slightly slackened when you put the brake pipe back on keeping the calliper uppermost so the air can't travel down the line

Once you get the line secure Very gently start to pump and that will start the calliper filling with fluid and if you keep the nipple as the hughest point and slighly slack you can see when the air  stops and the fluid starts at that point secure the calliper on the bike and bleed as normal


Please folks This is what I do and it works for me Obviously I can't be there when you are doing it to keep an eye on you so it's at your own disgression If you have any doubts see a qualified person first!
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P.S Any spilt brake fluid can be washed off with a Liberal spray of water My prefered is a bucket with soapy water and then a rinse with a hose / spray. Brake fluid is a form of antifreeze or vice versa They have the same major component "Ethylene glycol" both Hygroscopic and the reason you should chnage your brake/clutch fuid every 2 years!!

[WVdyhrd]

If they are stiff DO NOT push them back in !!! You're be heading for a trip with no brakes or over the bars

Pump the pistons out untill nearly completely out and remove brake pipe and seal it with a bit of inner tube and vise grips over the end this shoudl stop the fluid pouring out!

Remove the pistons and clean them and remove the Seals and wiper rings and clean any salts from behind the seals clean the groove of the wiper ring of dirt / salts We call the seal closest to the disc the wiper ring

Free up bleed nipple before reassembly IF it's tight Don't force it!
Set the calliper in a bowl of really hot water for 2  mins tap the nipple sharply with a small hammer Directly on top no sideways force! and it should come out real easy! put some anti sieze on the threads and stick it in and blow the calliper out with an airline to remove any water

Reassemble with rubber grease on the seals or if you can't get any? a smear of vaseline has sorted mine out ! Push the pistons completely in!

Have the master cylinder cap off and topped with fluid and the nipple slightly slackened when you put the brake pipe back on keeping the calliper uppermost so the air can't travel down the line

Once you get the line secure Very gently start to pump and that will start the calliper filling with fluid and if you keep the nipple as the hughest point and slighly slack you can see when the air  stops and the fluid starts at that point secure the calliper on the bike and bleed as normal


Please folks This is what I do and it works for me Obviously I can't be there when you are doing it to keep an eye on you so it's at your own disgression If you have any doubts see a qualified person first!
.
.
.
.
P.S Any spilt brake fluid can be washed off with a Liberal spray of water My prefered is a bucket with soapy water and then a rinse with a hose / spray. Brake fluid is a form of antifreeze or vice versa They have the same major component "Ethylene glycol" both Hygroscopic and the reason you should chnage your brake/clutch fuid every 2 years!!

Thanks.

So yesterday I set my bike up on it's stand to begin this process since it went through the confirmed truth test of noone refuting it.

Anywho. So yesterday I thought before I began this process, I'd check the resorvoir to make sure the p.o. didn't add extra fluid to compensate for the very LOW pads on the front. In the process I managed to cam-out one of the screws on the top.   :shock:  :oops:  :?    so 24hours and a borrowed drill later I'm backl to the starting point.

I pulled my caliper and attempted to GENTLY/no more then what my own hands can proved/ get the pistons to retract. Sadly they did but not enough, just enough to give me hope. But when I checked it against the rotor It was off by less then a few mil.

So after work tomorrow I plan on reattaching the calipers and attempting the above process.

QUESTION-How far are the pistons supposed to go? Are they supposed to be flush with the body of the caliper???

Thanks for the info and I'll keep  you posted.

p.s. to make sure can someone tell me the specifications? I don't have them with me but want to ensure I have the right size pad.

[pineygroveshop]

A helpful tip to clean the pistons:  
After removal of the caliper leave one pad in and pump the brake to extend the pistons plenty far enough, without going too far, for a thorough cleaning and lube.

[WVdyhrd]

Hey guys thanks for all the tips.

Through advice, reading, and a couple Sierra Nevada's I tore the breaks down including the pistons (thanks to a friend of mine and jethro) and they are working great!!!

Upgraded from stock pads to ECB racing grade. WOW!

[pineygroveshop]

A little lubrication does make things better!

[Mustang]

Upgraded from stock pads to ECB racing grade. WOW!

keep an eye on your rotors the EBC pads tend to be a little tuff on the rotors

[WVdyhrd]

any tips on warning signs?

[Mustang]

well yeah but by the time you see the warning signs you have already destroyed your rotor  :roll:

you will see ridges and the thickness will go below minimum .