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My Valve Adjustment Story So Far: Could Use Some Advice?

Started by Colonel Nikolai, November 07, 2010, 05:50:56 AM

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Birdy68

Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"I went with a sharpened, bent finishing nail. This and a magnet did the trick. Also rotating the bucket to where the dimple was on the inside of the head, where I could get at it, was the last hurdle.

Thanks for the insider tip! I'll be at that stage tonight...  :)

LATE last night I was able to pull the cover off and take the readings:




I believe that only the three Intake shims should be replaced...

So I'll be using a nail and magnet tonight to measure those shims  :lol:
Birdy68
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Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they\'re hot!

harre

That was nice worksheet, is it by any chance downloadable?

Birdy68

Hi harre,

I believe Mustang has a version also. But here is the one I created at work yesterday  :lol:  (I was bored...)

It's in the European size A4 too  :wink:
Birdy68
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Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they\'re hot!

harre

Thanks, will come in handy.

Colonel Nikolai

Nice worksheet!

If your intakes are the problem, I wouldn't rotate the bucket dimple to the inside like I did because that won't help you. I had 2 exhaust valves out of spec and the radiator is in the way there.

Seems like it's unusual that I'm having to change exhaust valves, instead of intakes. I keep hearing that it's the intakes that are usually getting tighter. But the bike here is a 96 Triumph Sprint, not a Steamer. I'm going to do the steamer next.
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.

Birdy68

Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"Nice worksheet!

If your intakes are the problem, I wouldn't rotate the bucket dimple to the inside like I did because that won't help you. I had 2 exhaust valves out of spec and the radiator is in the way there.
:hello2 Valve clearances have now been done....
:friday

BIG Thanks to you Nikolai for the 'Nail' tip.
And a SPECIAL thanks to Mustang for the excellent Shim Removal Tool.
:notworthy



So - here's my findings and the corrections I made if anyone's interested:


Yes - it is a new Worksheet. I found that I needed an area where I could write down the second readings after installing the replacement shim.
 :roll:

I've included this version below for those that would like it.
Feel free to use.
Birdy68
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Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they\'re hot!

Colonel Nikolai

Wow, that was fast! Good work!

So the nail helped you? I'll say don't make the nail tip too sharp: it could break off while pulling the shim out.

I'm waiting for shims to come in the mail.

I'm kinda weirded out that I'm the only guy with exhaust valves that are out of spec.
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.

Mustang

Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"I'm kinda weirded out that I'm the only guy with exhaust valves that are out of spec.
0

would it make you feel any better if I said  I have only had to shim exhaust valves on the 95 tiger of mine once in 55,ooo miles and they were two exhaust valves ?

JetdocX

Thanks for the new worksheet!

I've had to reshim exhaust valves more than once. :wink:

Just lucky, I guess. :roll:
From parts unknown.

Colonel Nikolai

Makes me feel a little better. This bike - a 96 Sprint - has 45k on it right now. Maybe this is the time for it?
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.

Birdy68

Well - fitted all parts back together yesterday and start the Tiger up. All sounded good!
After a short while (I let the oil circulate a minute or two) I twisted the throttle slightly.....

The RPM's sticked!! :shock:

Strange - as the throttle grip twists freely and springs back OK - No problem there.
BUT - the RPM's stay open and ever-so-slowly come back down... :?:

Obviously it's a mechanical problem.... So before I start stripping all back down to get to the carbs - does anyone have any tips / advice / hints I should look at.

Thanks in advance.
Birdy68
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Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they\'re hot!

Colonel Nikolai

Throttle cable? It's really easy to hork the cable ( pinch or kink ) when you remove the carbs / airbox.
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.

Bixxer Bob

NO offence Col Nick, but if it springs back ok it sounds like the linkage is working as it should as there's no spring in the twist grip.

Edit, just deleted the rest of this post, I'd gone into Girly mode (IACVs etc) :oops:
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Mustang

make sure there is some free play in the cable at the twist grip end there is an adjuster there at the twist grip

make sure the cable is setting into the ferrule at the carbs properly

sync the carbs

adust the idle  screw

if the rpms hang high at like 2500 rpm and then slowly settle back down to 1500 by itself . If it is you may want to turn the idle mixture screws in 1/2 turn to a turn

Colonel Nikolai

Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"NO offence Col Nick

none taken: you know more than I do!
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.