Piston ring Replacement

[zombie2]

Alrighty
Back into the workshop tonight and we got a lot accomplished.
First thing I did this morning was take a drive up to the boys at performance cycles in Shrewsbury Masachusetts.
They are a Triumph dealer and my mate Keith is their parts guy and the lads in service kindly loaned me their liner removal tool which made my life a lot easier, really appreciated that one.
After removing all the cylinder liners and cleaning them up , we had to decide how to go about re-assembly.
After perusing the different manuals and mainly the haynes , we decided to put the connecting rods onto the crankshaft and then install the new rings.

[zombie2]

Nest thing was to get the pistons ready.
Having not split the crankcase this was going to be tricky as the #3 piston was going to be the most difficult.
We applied moly grease to the back side of the shell bearings to hold them in place , then applied oil to the face of the bearings as you want a film of oil between the bearings and the crankshaft
Getting the rod cap on was a pain but after a few attempts we manged to get the nuts to thread onto the rod bolts.
We used an extension with a knuckle attachment and threaded the nuts finger tight.
We also applied lock-tite to all the nuts
Our next step was to set up the torque wrench , we had a 1/4 inch digital wrench ready.
We torqued the nuts to 14nm by stages alternating back and forth.
For the next stage your supposed to use a degree wheel but that was not an option for us as there is no room.
After torquing the nuts you go an extra 120 degrees.
We knew that the degree wheel was not an option going into this, so we figured out on a six sided nut one side or face is equal to 60 degrees so we needed to tighten up  two sides.
We tightened up by very small increments till we were satisfied we got the 120degreees, very time consuming but an important step and vital in the re-assembly process

[zombie2]

Next was to install a new oil sump gasket and oil screen
We applied vaseline to both sides of the oil sump gasket as that will save the gasket if I ever have to take the sump off again.
Cleaned up the inside of the sump and installed and then put on a new oil filter.
My plan is to run the bike for a couple of hundred miles on regular oil and then drain it.

Next step is to do the rings , liners and head gasket.

Happy new year to all and I'll be back to this next week sometime

[zombie2]

Back into the workshop last night.
We got the new rings onto the pistons being careful to space them apart as per the manual.
The two top rings have an N stamped on them and they get installed with the N facing up.
After that We applied the Hylomar blue onto the cylinder liners and carefully installed over the rings.
I have a tube of this stuff now so if anyone needs it let me know and ya can have it
The liners slid easily enough over the rings without having to use a ring compressor. The bottom of the liner is chamfered inwards and that makes the job a little easier.
Carefully using a soft mallet with a plastic ruler laid over the liner we gently tapped the liner into place making sure it lined up exactly as it was taken out.
We had marked both the front and the side of the liners so we knew how to re-install without gettting mixed up.
After installing the liners we lubed up the cylinder walls with a liberal coating of oil.

[zombie2]

Now we were ready for the head gasket.
The new head gasket sits on top of two dowels which holds the gasket in place.
Next we installed the head in place and finger tightened the head bolts. I aplied a coating of anti-seize to the head bolts.
The cam chain was pulled up using wire and tightened to hold in place.
We tightened the head bolts in 3 stages going from 20NM to 27 NM and finally tightening 90 degrees. To achieve that we used a red marker to mak the bolt and the head so it all lined up correctly.

[zombie2]

Next is installing the camshafts.
Firstly I applied a nice coating of oil to all the shims and buckets and reinstalled them in the order they were removed , it really helped that we wrote everything down and it made the job a lot easier.
The we laid the camshfts in place and replaced the caps and torqued the cap bolts to 12nm.
We rotated the motor to get the timing marks lined up on the crankshaft, then we lined up the arrows on the intake and exhaust camshafts.
Then we took up the slack on the cam chain by using two wrenches and rotating the camshafts so that the arrows on the camshafts lined up and then we installed the cam chain tensioner.
It gave us a little trouble in that it didn't take up all the slack on the chain but a tap of a long screwdriver and it clicked nicely into place.
We installed the cam chain guard and torqued the tensioner bolt to 27 nm.
We rotated the motor a couple of times and checked the timing and it all lined up as it should.
Afetr that I applied a liberal coating of oil to everything to help in getting oil pressure up quickly.
Lastly I installed new spark plugs.
Next is putting on the valve cover and reinstalling the engine.
Lots done last night and I'm in the home stretch with this thing.
Hopefully start it up soon

[zombie2]

back at it last night.
Replaced the valve cover and torqued to 10nm.
Now for the hard part getting the motor back into the frame.
I had a couple of mates come over and two of us held while one jacked it back into position so we could get the motor mount bolts in.
Proper bastard of a job but success after much bollocking about
and swearing.
Don't forget to retorque the swingarm pivot bolts as these were loosened to remove the motor.
Not much left now except to hook everything back up and plug it in.
So saturday I'll go back to it and hopefully finish

[yack_ass]

Hej, with what did you clean the oil sump?

My friend told me to use gasoline, could I use alcohol instead?



Thank you!


edit:

We tightened the head bolts in 3 stages going from 20NM to 27 NM and finally tightening 90 degrees. To achieve that we used a red marker to mak the bolt and the head so it all lined up correctly.

I'm not sure what this means? You marked the position before you unscrewed the bolts and then after the third seting you just tightened them till they lined up?

edit 2: just went trough a manual, the "90 degrees" is with the degree disc y/n?

[zombie2]

Hej, with what did you clean the oil sump?

My friend told me to use gasoline, could I use alcohol instead?

Thank you!
edit:

We tightened the head bolts in 3 stages going from 20NM to 27 NM and finally tightening 90 degrees. To achieve that we used a red marker to mak the bolt and the head so it all lined up correctly.

I'm not sure what this means? You marked the position before you unscrewed the bolts and then after the third seting you just tightened them till they lined up?

edit 2: just went trough a manual, the "90 degrees" is with the degree disc y/n?

After you have the head bolts torqued you then need to tighten them a further 90degrees. If you don't have a degree wheel just figure out 90degrees and mark the bolt and head like I did.
To clean the sump I used sili-kroil and it washed all the crud off nicely.

Yesterday saturday I made a mistake and we just figured it out last night.
So back at it today and hopefully sort it out

[Mustang]

with out a degree wheel he did it the old fashioned way ........torgue the bolts to  spec then mark them and tighten an additional 1/4 turn . Same result as using a degree wheel :D

[zombie2]

It lives and breathes and sounds sweet as a nut.
I'll post more in a bit but I'm off for me tea and biscuits.
Big Big thanks to Mustang for some late night advice last night.
Cheers
Turns out some muppet (that would be me) installed the camshafts backwards :oops:
Anyhow all is well and the motor sounds like it did when I bought it brand new , so result.
Okay now wheres me cuppa  :lol:  :lol:

[zombie2]

Alrighty then
Yesterday was a struggle mainly cos the camshafts were in backwards .
All I have left to do is replace some of the gaskets and button it up.
After firing it up and it started first tip of the starter , it smoked nicely due to the coating of oil in the top end and then cleared right up

[zombie2]

Thats about it so.
Really want to thank me mate Liamsey for taking the time to do this project with me , he gave up his nights and weekends and drove over 30 miles to my house every time to help , I'm really grateful.
Also a big thanks to Mustang and bixxer bob for the help.
I learned quite a bit about the bike and it just takes time to dissasemble and put back together.
Keep in mind I'm a back street mechanic and it was as much a learning process as anything else. I wasn't going to pay a dealer to do it so neccessity pushed me to tackle it
I posted this with pics to help anyone thinking of doing it themselves and to avoid my mistakes.
Couple of really important things.
1... Label everything and I mean everything , you'll be glad you did.
2 .... If you are dropping the motor consider making a cradle for it out of 2 by 4's it will make your job easier and last but not least
DO NOT I repeat DO NOT install the friggin camshafts backwards.
I would also like to thank the members on this site that have taken to the time to do the how-to's as it really makes life easy
What I really like about Tiger Triple is the amount of sound advice and help that's available by simply asking.......
Cheers everyone and feel free to add comments that would make the job easier

Later Mick

[iansoady]

Well done. Isn't that satisfying when it fires up?

[Advwannabe]

Fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to document it all for the rest of us