Tiger Trouble

[pinner]

Looking for suggestions, wisdom, a hunch anything.  So my 95 has faithfully carried me almost 40k mile to include Prudoe and has 57 on the clock.  Just returned from a trip up the PCH.  It ran well (Good power and responsive) but has had poor milage for the last 5-6 k. When I retruned I washed the bike and put it in the garage.  Couldnt get it to start after that.  :?:  Sent it to a recomended mechanic who got it started but said it was running rough, backfire, #3 not firing. He finlly gets it running "well"  I pick it up and can tell right away that it no behaving properly, poor throttle response, sluggish.
I take a couple hundred mile trip.  At the turnaround point I find a small head gasket leak at #3.  I get home and drop it a new shop.

Since this a long story, I'll break here adn let the speculation and advice begin

[Mustang]

when were the valves last checked for clearance and or shimmed ?check compression first by the sounds of things ....if it has at least 100 psi per cylinder should be able to rule out gasket or valves
if compression is good start looking seriously at the coils ...and just because you have spark on all three cylinders still doesn't mean that you don't have a duff coil

you don't have something as silly as water in the fuel , do ya ? pull the line at the petcock and with it on reserve drain some into a clear container and see what it looks like after it settles

bad orings on the float chambers to mikunis will cause the same type of conditions you describe also

these are the common faults with a steamer that won't run right

if it's none of those problems above it is damn near impossible to
armchair internet troubleshoot :shock: and your on your own

[Mustang]

.

Since this a long story, I'll break here adn let the speculation and advice begin

and what the hell does this mean ?????

[pinner]

Mustang Thanks.
I was hopin you would chime in quickly.  I have rarely posted but followed the tips and advice dispenced here since I join.  I have struggled with carb issues on this bike and thought I had them resolved( whole new Bank of carbs).  Based on much of what I had seen here I was about to get some nology  coils but had not gotten there yet.

.... as the story continues, my latest mechanic starts to pull the cover and head and had to spend several ours just working intially to get the center cver bolts off then more of the same with the center head bolts.  access of course is a pain in the $%^.  Just looking down on the head, indicates that a #3 exhaust valve was jammed open.  I believe he said the bucket was jammed down into the head.  The shim was missing and found down in the cam chain area.  There was a dink on the lobe for that exhaust valve.....  I talked to him about it and have stopped by and looked.  I only ride it and replace a few things here and there.  I confess that I am not the mechanic that my bike requires or deserves, so this could seem as  a vaugue description of what was found.

He says my choices are:
1) new to me used motor, labor 1500.00
2) machine head, new valves( also have a burned valve on #1), new cam
 Unknown is finding another cam.  Maybe less, maybe more overall than engine replacement.
3) I take the parts peices home and part it out.  300.00 for work done

[Mustang]

does the 1500 bucks include new motor or is the used motor in addition to 1500 cuz if he wants 1500 to put a used motor in that you must buy he's raping you !

find a head off any sprint daytona speed triple or trophy from the same year and get the cams with it , it'll bolt right on .


or cut your losses and part it out on the ebay ..............

[pinner]

1500 includes used motor with 15k on it  and garaunteed., labor including work done with complete assembly.  I may have a line on a couple cams off a 95.  
At this point Im just not sure which way to go.  If I can get the cams, he thinks machine work on the head would be about 300.00, plus work done: 300.00 another couple hundred reassembly and misc parts?  Could be half the price but will have a motor with almost 60K

[Mustang]

trust me go for the motor with 15 k for 1500 thats the best deal
rebuilding the head won't work unless you put out a grand to have new seats installed , ask JetDocx he's been there done that.

[pinner]

Thanks for the advice.  I should have put some of my earlier issues out here sooner.  Any  thoughts on what may have caused the valve issue.  I have been remiss in not having them done/ checked in the 40k that I have had it.  DidI just answer my own question? :?

 I guess my only concern is that I will have put 1500 into an old bike with possibly other issues.  She is probably only worth around 2K. I love her when she runs.  She's a cold hearted B*&^h when she doesnt.  Maybe I need to treat her better.  haha

[pinner]

So after careful consideration and advice from Mustang ( thank you very much) I have chosen to have the engine replaced. Should be done by end of next week.  My mechanic is recommedning Mobile1 synthetic.  He says its a good synthetic at a reasonable price.  He also recomends that once you start with synthetice, you stick with it.   I have seen many people say to just use inexpensive Rotella.  Im sure it is somewhere here on another thread but im looking for some input.
Cheers, Kevin

[Mustang]

this works I use it in my tiggers as well as mobil 1 mx4t , I prefer the mobil 1 but it's 10 bucks a qt at autozone
the rotella t is full synthetic also and is under 20 bucks a gallon at walmart
depends how much coin is my pocket at oil change time

[pinner]

Thnaks Mustang.  You use 05-40W.  I have always used 10-40W.  Much difference?

[Mustang]

not that you will notice in the steamer but your wallet will notice  :D

[Milton]

I've always used Rotella T in my bikes with no bit of trouble. I've always felt if you use a good oil and replace the oil and filter regularly anything that is slick is good. Oil is a religious topic for many.

[pinner]

Thank you both for your thoughts. :)  I will keep you posted on my Tiger transplant.

[D-Fuzz]

+1 for Rotella.  I like I can go to Walmart and pick up a jug and I can even get it on sale every once in awhile.  For me, buying synthetic at $15/quart is a waste as I tend to change my oil every 3000 miles or so.