London to Sydney - changing a steamer into a dual sport

[wakdady]

Both side intakes are open. The Australian made Uni-filter pods are not oiled and are intended to catch larger particles such as: bugs, seeds, grass etc etc.... Hopefully the K&N filter in the air-box will filter out fine grit and dust. The very slight restriction of the uni-filters helps with the low speed tractability whilst providing minimal restriction at high rpms. The jetting was changed to:

Mikuni Carb

mains 125, 122.5, 125
needles 2 notches from the bottom
Pilot jet 40 (stock)
Pilot screw 2.25 turns out

The fuel economy at high speed is probably not great, but in a nanny state like Australia with an enforced 100kmhr speed limit, this is not a problem.
With a 19 front sprocket the engine is turning only 3841rpms @ 100kmph according to: www.gearingcommander.com

TROPICALWALLAH

hey, what did you use to seal those side intake boxes? Mine are both split.
Also, is there some part number for some pre-filters?
I thought the cap on the right side should be left on?

[Mustang]

hey, what did you use to seal those side intake boxes? Mine are both split.
Also, is there some part number for some pre-filters?
I thought the cap on the right side should be left on?

look what his jetting is at it needs the cap open

[tropicalwallah]

To seal the airbox and create cups to hold the filter pods I used:

"Sikaflex®-227 is a one-component poly--urethane sealant designed for car body construction, curing on exposure to atmospheric moisture to form a durable elastomer".

The filter pods are by an Australian company called Uni-Filter. My filters
are run without filter oil, and are only intended to catch large particulates.

Looking at the jetting i originally posted, the needle position is actually 2 from
the top, not 2 from the bottom.

If you want good fuel economy keeping everything stock would be best!

[fishnbiker]

I'd sell my kids for a tubless solution


Or where did I go wrong?  :oops:[/quote]

I don't want your kids but............a lot of people have sealed their rims with silicone sealant around the spoke nipples and then covered the rim with the rim rubber and a few wraps of fiberglass or similar tape .
Most have had good results , with minimal to zero air leaks . YMMV

My toolkit is a cell phone and a master card ..... :ImaPoser

I used Industrial GOOP after the Silicone seal was found to be shredded at the next rear tire change. Have run with no adjustments nigh on 10 years now. Loses about 1~2 lbs /month. The valve hole needs to be drilled out a bit to fit an automotive metal valve. My 19" front rim is also tubeless.

My 21" front is not a tubeless rim, so still has a standard tube setup. If using a 21' front, you will need to raise the forks in the triple tree (losing some fork travel in the process), or add some padding under the sidestand. The bike will lean over too much without it, maybe easier to fall over if loaded up high. I used a piece of 1.5" Lexan, large enough to make a decent footprint for soft ground. Mine is 2" wide by 4" long. Plywood or a hockey puck would also work. Mind telling us the reasoning behind getting a 21" wheel for this mixed road trip? Seems that it would be a lot cheaper to stay with the 19". A raised fender, extended brake lines & the above mentioned leaning are a huge change for anyone not using the bike continuously on rough gravel, mud, or sand roads. I have both systems, but prefer the 19" on good gravel & pavement, leaving the 21" for the really rough stuff.

[fishnbiker]

Take a shop manual, or memorize it. Probably easier to take it. If you plan or are forced into any maintenance or repairs, you can't do without it. Mine has seen a lot of roadside reading in Mexico & the back country wilderness of Yukon & British Columbia. Write all the most used info on the first or last page, ie; how much oil, coolant, fork fluid, tire pressures, etc.

Make sure all consumable parts are brand new & road tested before going. Brake pads, fork, brake & clutch fluids, chain, sprockets, coolant, plugs, etc. Do your steering head bearing, swing arm bearing, & wheel bearing services. Make a complete check over of everything in the manual.

Loctite everything that could possibly shake loose.

Make up a tool kit to fit on the front of the engine guard, keeping that weight front & low. Mine is 2 pieces of 3" ABS plumbing pipe held on with hose clamps. Threaded cap on one end needs waterpump pliers to remove, more secure. It's a good tool to have also, but not inside the case. Has proven itself over 80,00km of mixed terrain since install.  See photo. More photos of my setups at   http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/motorcycles/ (http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/motorcycles/)

Have an advance arrangement made with your favourite dealer on how to have parts delivered quickly via courier. Make sure you know where to find the part numbers online or carry a CD / flash drive  list.