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#1
Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) / Re: Carb Tuning by CO Gas Anal...
Last post by Lee337 - August 08, 2022, 11:32:14 AM
Far more patience (and experience) than me with all things carbed. This is probably why I ended up taking the trophy to a local company that tunes bikes.

An interesting read though, especially the process you followed to get the balance.

hats off to you.  :><
#2
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 08, 2022, 11:23:14 AM
I thought about using a steam cleaner for the inside of the fuel tank but wasn't certain the plastic wouldn't warp. I have one of those steam floor mops which I'm sure has a hose attachment, so will have to see if I can find it.

As for timescale, I've set myself a goal of finishing it before my bike insurance becomes due, but as that's not until July next year, I suspect it may get finished sooner. I'm in no real hurry but admit to starting work early most days, so I can finish early & get a couple of hours in before dinner.
#3
Other Triples / Re: Not a Sprint
Last post by Lee337 - August 08, 2022, 11:14:52 AM
I like the look of them. I tried to get hold of clear lenses for the Tiger a while back but couldn't find any. Squaredeals-UK had them on their website but after ordering them I got an email to say they were no longer available. These look like a suitable alternative & think they certainly suit the Sprint more than the originals.
#4
Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) / Carb Tuning by CO Gas Analyser
Last post by Sin_Tiger - August 08, 2022, 12:57:52 AM
Not being a carburation  :qgaraduate  I've always struggled to get the idle air adjustment as good as it was from the factory and spent many hours riding / tweaking and often loosing track of how many turns out I had each one. I've tried using "Colourtune" plugs, even going to the expense of buying a multi cylinder set, yes it will run with three Clourtunes as plugs but I still found it tricky.

I know in the factory they used a gas analyser connected to each cylinder down pipe, that's what those little M6 hex screws are for in the downpipes. I'd read that they often strip as they come out or the threads get damaged and they won't stay in place when you refit them but I decided to give it a try and use high temp Thread Locker if it didn't go well.

I had a Gunson CO analyser sitting on the shelf that I'd used a handful of times but never very conclusively on bikes sampling out of the end cans. Reading what literature that came with it didn't expressly say it wouldn't be able to handle gas straight out of the downpipe so I decided there should probably be enough cooling of the gas along the 0.5m length of alloy tube and plastic hose not to melt the sampler pump.

I did not want to connect the hose directly to the downpipe for fairly obvious reasons, so I decided to make a set of spigots from some scrap brass bar with an M6 threaded bore on the outer end which would allow me to unplug only one cylinder at a time and not be screwing the plugs in and out of the downpipe, potentially wearing the delicate thread, waiting for the downpipe to cool or working with hot screws.

Slipping the hose onto the end of the spigot on the first test, it didn't take long to realise the end of the spigot was still too hot as the hose slowly melted. I managed to find a close enough piece of tube to allow me to attach the alloy pipe (about 200mm long) with the hose on the end. There was enough heat loss to prevent the hose even softening to the point where it would fold, so I decided that would probably be enough temp drop to prevent the sampler being damaged.

I warmed the bike up and set the analyser to calibrate in fresh air and adjust to a stable 2.0% CO. Once everything was stable and I had the carbs vacuum balanced I connected the analyser to the first cylinder. Starting from the usual base setting of around 2.5 turns out I had a reading of 6.5% CO and started making small (1/8th of a turn) adjustments waiting for a stable reading after each adjustment.

I was expecting the readings to be quite laggy but I was pleasantly surprised to note a change within 5-10 secs and just to be sure it wasn't a fluke, adjusting back out the same amount and getting within 0.1% of the original reading. Continuing in the same manner I managed to get the the reading to a stable 3.0% and returning to that after a short throttle burst, the CO increased as expected and  then reduced with a fixed RPM as you'd expect. I had screwed the jet in by less than 1/2 a turn.

I repeated the operation on cyls 2 (needing a bit over 3/4 of a turn) & 3 (needing a little over 1/2 a turn), did a small balance adjustment and allowed the analyser to sample fresh air in between each cylinder test and it returned to within 0.1% CO of the initial 2% setting each time. I repeated each cylinder test without adjustment and got within 0.1% CO of the previous samples without any adjustment.

I refitted new SUS screws with copper washers as the threads on the original MS screws were a little rounded and I didn't want to risk stripping the threads in the downpipes.

Subjectively, the engine is running as even sounding as any I've ever done, it revs without any hesitation and returns crisply to idle without any fluffing or hunting.

As a baseline, mileage is just under 36k miles, the engine has had a good clean out including the sump, fresh oil and filter, carbs stripped cleaned, clean air filter (split), clean plugs, inside of the down pipes de-burred, valve clearances all in spec and all within 0.05 of the factory shimming, I used 1.5 litres of E10 fuel with a dash of Seafoam, weather was overcast with almost no wind, about 16C ambient and about 65% RH. The Gunson's "Gastester" I used appears to have been superseded with a more compact version.

Some things I should have done, take more photos  :icon_rolleyes: , perhaps put the bike on a paddock stand (it has no centre stand) and check the downpipe temperatures. I'm looking forward to riding the bike, seeing how it behaves and getting some fuel consumption results.
#5
Other Triples / Re: Not a Sprint
Last post by Sin_Tiger - August 07, 2022, 11:44:37 PM
Well I couldn't help myself  :icon_rolleyes: started looking for bits I don't have and checking ebay for prices.

The front indicators being integral to the front panel I like and the fact that they're clear lenses is also nice as they don't look out of place regardless of colour but the rear are those square rear ones and don't look like they belong.

Since I will have to move the rears onto the extension brackets and the ones that are currently fitted have already been broken and shortened, I thought I'd look for replacements. In the process I came across these clear lensed semi oval stalk items which were fitted to some later models such as the Daytona 650, Sprint ST 1050 and possibly the early 1050 Tigers. As you can see they're not a million miles away from the front flush units in both shape and pattern and they look like they belong with the stop and tail being an uncoloured lens (aftermarket I suspect), so a pair of those are now in the project box for that bike.

#6
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Sin_Tiger - August 07, 2022, 11:28:22 PM
:><  brilliant progress, have you set yourself a goal, like get it back on the road before Christmas  :icon_scratch:  as you're fairly cracking on.

I use some biodegradable degreaser called something like "Powerforce", it's supposed to be diluted 10:1 but being me I use it neat, it's not 10x more powerful like that but I don't leave it on alloy for very long  :bad  A steam cleaner is a useful tool, just one of these cheapo kettle type that you have to stop and refill, gets into all the nooks and crannies where you sprayed degreaser and they usually have a long articulated hose / nozzle.

I've recently used some brushing engine paint (I'll get the name tomorrow) which goes on and seems to stick better than Hammerite.
#7
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 07, 2022, 11:21:47 PM
Update:

Having cleaned up the caliper pistons, I've decided to replace 5 of them. There's a little corrosion above the seal but it's where the dust seal sits. So while they're possibly usable, I'm taking no chances as they're all from the front calipers.
#8
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 07, 2022, 12:14:32 PM
A coupe of days soaking and all is now clean - I don't smell of diesel, the oil under my finger nails has pretty much gone and I no longer have to sleep in the spare room because I smell like a 1960's garage monkey.

As for Daysie, she now has clean brake calipers after soaking them in diesel for 3 days. I've managed to get all the pistons out with no damage and although some of them are a bit 'crusry' around the top, where the dust seals sat, I'll give them a good clean with some fine wire wool. As I don't have to replace any of them it saves me around £120 to spend on other bits.

The rear subframe, mirror brackets and the magnesium dash intrument surround went off to the powder coaters on Saturday and should be back with me in 3 - 4 weeks. He's quoted me £142 which I didn't think was too bad.

In other news, I've removed the chain guard which was posing a problem with a couple of seized bolts, with a combination of Plusgas and mole grips. The clevis pin that attached the rear brake pedal to the rear master cylinder proved problematic. I had to remove the whole assembly and put it in the vice to try to free it up. Countless hours spent with a combination of Plusgas, pliers, molegrips and finally a hammer didn't budge it. Finally heat from my blowtorch and the hammer freed it up with no damage other than to said clevis pin.

The air box has also been removed after a fight to get it loose. It turns out Haynes Manuals do have their uses. the early Daytonas have a hidden bolt securing the front of the airbox to the frame. Another example of Triump's design mastery here, the bolt is tucked away behind the radiator and would have all but been impossible had I not already removed the radiator.

I was expecting to see three badly perished vacuum hoses running from the throttlw bodies to the IACV (for the uninitiated, the Idle Air Control Valve, which I've seen referenced as ICAV IVAC IAV and stepper motor in varoius places), and I wasn't surprised - at least with the state of the vacuum hoses, but unlike Tallulah Tiger, there was no IACV to be seen.

Turns out the IACV on early models is not sat above the throttle bodies as in later models but tucked under the throttle bodies behind the clutch actuator arm. Who knew. Looks like it's going to be a PITA to get to but as at least 4 of the 6 hose connectors are not connected and two of them seem to be bunged up with crud, it's got to come out to be checked & cleaned. I have a copy of the Triumph service manual on the PC so I can see the laptop heading for the garage when it comes to this piece of work, that or the printer's going to get a hammering.

The remainder of Saturday was cleaning stuff. I had some Rubber & Vinyl cleaner which I used successfully on Tabitha to cklean all the wiring loom and assorted plastic bits so did the same for Daysie. While I have yet to check any of the electrical system, at least everything looks clean now. I also used some parts washer solution and a rag to clean up the frame, engine and any other bits I could get to. I've still got cleaning to do, namely the wheels and those hard to get to bits at the back of the engine.

While cleaning the engine, quite a bit of the engine powder coating came off. Hardly surprising as it was sitting for so long. Most of it was around the front where antifreeze from the leaking radiator got to it. The water pump housing and the housing where the top hose goes in to the engine is also a bit ropey. It was also peeling off on the underside. Not sure what i'm going to do about this yet if anything as it's mostly covered by fairings, but as is my way, I won't be happy leaving it, so I'll have to clean it up & find some sort of engine paint just to tidy it up

Any suggestions that doesn't require removing the engine are greatly received.

On order and currently awaiting delivery is a socket big enough to remove teh rear wheel. It's a big bugger, 46mm and the torque setting for the nut is something over 100Nm, so as with the front sprocket nut, I think the torque gun is going to be let out of it's case, but that's for another time.

#9
Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) / Re: Best speedometer cable lub...
Last post by ssevy - August 07, 2022, 02:14:59 AM
This Kable Ease product is thin and black, so I assume it is similar to all of the other graphite based products?
Not a grease for sure!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#10
Ride Reports / Re: Riding my Steamer NY to CA...
Last post by Madruss - August 06, 2022, 12:06:04 PM
Epic trip mate.
Thanks for educating this tiger owning Aussie on a two way journey across your vast country.
I did my epic trip from Darwin NT to Sydney NSW on a '73 750 Ducati in 1978. Wrote it up a few years ago. Unfortunately very few photos survived.