ADVrider's Neduro was kind enough to allow us to link to his Tire Changing Class thread in ADVrider's 'Wisdom' section.
It's a great primer for folks who have never changed their own tires before, and some of the old-timers may pick up something as well.
He doesn't mention balancing, as the class is aimed toward dirt bikes, but I have had great results using Dynabeads, inside the tire itself. More on that in a different thread, here... http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4608 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4608)
But without further adieu... give it up for Neduro and his Tire Changing Class...
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Ti ... nging.html (http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Tire%20Changing.html)
thanks for the post stretch, im getting ready to stick a new set of tire's on the steamer, and this wlii help alot. i read your post on dynabeads over on adv - you really dig them?
Yep. No weights to fall off, no jackstand balancing act... just pour, inflate, and forget.
Naysayers comment that the ceramic beads cause wear on the inside of the tire, but in fact, centrifugal force causes the beads to stay in position on the inside of the tire as the wheel is rolling... the beads don't move at all once the speed of the bike is above 10 mph or so.
At walking speeds, the beads are small enough that you can't hear them flowing inside the tire, and since they are round and tiny (about one millimeter) wear on the inside of the tire is not even a factor. The movement of the beads merely polishes the center of the interior surface of the tire.
I've had them in my TKC's since December, and it's the only way I'll ever balance another motorcycle tire.
Also, I have a slide-in truck camper, and since my truck is not a dually, I need super heavy-duty tires to carry the weight. The 19.5 tractor-trailer tires on my truck are too big and heavy to fit on a standard tire balancing machine, so I put six ounces of Dynabeads in each one and have eliminated the need for periodic rebalancing.
I am assuming that if they fit in a tubless vlve stem they will also work on tubed bikes like my steamer and my bonneville . The Bonnie has a serious front end shake when rolling off the throttle unless you keep 50 lbs. of air in it (and you can still feel it ) .
Yep, as long as the valve stems are straight.
The Dynabeads will not flow through the 90˚ angled tubeless valve stems on a Girly's cast wheels (I've tried it). In that case, they need to be poured into the tire before both beads are seated.
Or just break the bead in one spot and pour the Dynabeads in... no biggie.
But yes, they will flow through a straight schrader valve into an innertube.
Ordering some Dynabeads and tire irons as we speak to attempt my first DIY tire change.
Can anyone tell me if a 96 steamer has F or R hollow axles and therefore requires one of these http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_ ... ts_id=5616 (http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_info.php?products_id=5616)?
My bike is in the shop having a center stand installed or I could check myself...
Quote from: "Jomama"Can anyone tell me if a 96 steamer has F or R hollow axles and therefore requires one of these http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_ ... ts_id=5616 (http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_info.php?products_id=5616)?
...
save your money you dont need it , buy a bead breaker instead .
If this is your first time changing tires by hand on a motorcycle , you better have a good plan for breaking the bead on the rear tire as it is a bitch ,tubeless type rim bead on the steamer rims even though they have tubed tires :shock: you can use a car jack and a car to break the bead , pain in the ass or you need to search the net and find some homemade ideas . Breaking the bead is the tough part although wrestling a new tire on has it's moments too and then you pinch the tube , crap have to start all over ..
Unless you have done it a zillion times or have a lot of tires to change every year it's less frustrating to just take your wheels to the shop and let them do it !
Now that I have said all that , I do my own tires , so dig in and learn .
Thanks, I'm going to have help from someone who has at least done dirt bike tires.
I have always used just tire irons to break the bead, but bead breaker will make the job easier.
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n223/fano1/IMG_2621.jpg)
Plus one on the Dynabeads. I haven't added them to Tigger yet but will be soon as I've just about worn out the rubber that came with. I planned on adding them to the next set since I go through tires quickly anyway. They work fantastic and beat spin balancing by a long shot. As for breaking the bead, I've used the kick stand but I like the looks of the HT bead breaker Fano mentioned.
Yeah, but those cost... money... and stuff.
(http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker1.jpg)
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html (http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html)
(http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/33717/2102914110098264916S600x600Q85.jpg)
Stretch, you're always full of good ideas! 8)
Full of... something...
:mrgreen:
I'm sure your wife would have a few things to add to that.....I'd say that judging by the last couple of pictures you are full of leverage. :roll: A good thing considering you just tweaked your back. Nice job on the center stand by the way. :occasion14
Quote from: "Stretch"Yeah, but those cost... money... and stuff.
(http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker1.jpg)
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html (http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html)
(http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/33717/2102914110098264916S600x600Q85.jpg)
That is nice but I don't think it will fit in my tank bag. :icon_scratch
Then you need a bigger... wait.
Nevermind.
Quote from: "HappyMan"A good thing considering you just tweaked your back.
I'm forever tweaking my back... I have a lot of leverage working against me. And for some reason, I simply can't get into my head that I'm not 25 anymore, and that I shouldn't try to lift ____________.
Weight training and exercise is key, but I'm slowly going to shit regardless.
I know the feeling. I think we are generally the same age (42) and I beat the crap out of myself in my younger years and I'm payin' like Hell now. I did have fun though...... :D
I used a big C-clamp to help break the bead on my 96's rear wheel, but I remember it still being a pain. That said, I actually enjoy changing the tires on my bike.
I did my Tiger's rear wheel with a C-clamp, three prybars and some armor all (lube). It can be done. The big thing is to remember to compress the opposing side of the new tire when you put it on so you'll have a hair more slack to help with that last little bit, and to use plenty of lube during all stages of the operation.
Also, watch this:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=flash+bmw&ei=WWA0SK2wA5Og4AKqysjdCQ
On the first long trip with my tiger I got a nail in my tire. Thankfully, the prior week I'd read Neduro's thread. I'd carried tire irons and a spare tube with me on the trip. I changed the tube at the Cherohala Cycle Resort with 50 KLR guys watching. I looked like a pro but it's all due to Neduro! We used the leg of a picnic table to break the bead (with two guys bouncing on the picnic bench).
I'm a big fan of Dynabeads. I've now changed both the front and the back of the Tiger and I'm running Dynabeads in both.
A couple of low budget bead breakers:
(http://www.friendshuh.com/albums/album16/breaking_the_bead.sized.jpg)
or
(http://turkish.smugmug.com/photos/8768346-M.jpg)
Finally a two-parter:
(http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8851/wpdsc000940001oc9.jpg)
(http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/977/wpdsc000920001fi0.jpg)
Necessity is mother of invention, but no one know the father so invention must be a bastard...
Geof
That last one is pretty funny.
Two questions :)
How do you keep from marring your wheels with the tire levers?
and...
All the pictures seem to be taking little care with the rotors. Reading the service manual leads you to believe they should be kept in a vacuum sealed vault while performing these operations. Looks like they have the rims supported on 2x4's when doing all of this.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Two questions :)
How do you keep from marring your wheels with the tire levers?
and...
All the pictures seem to be taking little care with the rotors. Reading the service manual leads you to believe they should be kept in a vacuum sealed vault while performing these operations. Looks like they have the rims supported on 2x4's when doing all of this.
Make sure to get good levers, cheap ones generally are not designed properly and can leave scratches. Lots of lube helps to not have to force the tire too much. Just make sure not to twist the levers while they are in the tire.
Tires like the Tourance will be a pain and are some of the most difficult to get off.
Quote from: "abruzzi".....
Necessity is mother of invention, but no one know the father so invention must be a bastard...
Geof
I've heard some various suggestions on who the father might be!!
Stress
GAP (Got A Problem)
Trouble
WOH (World of Hurt)
OWN (Ooops.. What Now)
Speaking of ooops.... you got a bad link in your first of the two parter
Quote from: "Stretch"(http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/33717/2102914110098264916S600x600Q85.jpg)
So how high can you lift your garage wall in this configuration?
It's limited only by your body weight and the local building codes.
So, to be more productive, one may want to wait with the tire changes for a few more months... the holidays are coming up.
Seriously, I use a 6-inch C-clamp... much easier, and I don't have to clear the junk and scrap metal away from the garage wall to use it. 8)
I just nail a chunk of 2x4 horizontally across the studs and use another piece of 2x4 on the flat to push down a 12" piece of 1x4 into the bead. I sit the tire in the same 2x4 box that is in the picture. Quick, easy and stores away. The leverage bits can be used anywhere you can get a purchase, not necessarily into a wall support.
There are several videos at the No-Mar Tire Changer website. The videos are of them using their tools but they do have some good tips along the way that helps with tire changes. I've changed a few tires on my Harbor Freight tire changing stand and used some of their tips on my last change. I got the most helpful info out of the video below.
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/videos/3
Or don´t use anything at all, except tyre irons and brute force. I have lost count on how many tyre changes I´ve done this way on the Steamer, and for every new one I get better at doing it.
The rims are full of scratches from this and other reasons, but it´s a dual sport bike isn´t it?
My last puncture was at home. I noticed the flat rear wheel when leaving the garage sideways. It took me 45 minutes with two tyre irons and one rubber repair pad plus the necessary spanners and pliers before I was on the road again. That was a personal best for me and I grinned like a fool when done...
Point is, at least for those that take the bike to odd places, how do you do a roadside puncture fix if you need all those tools?
Dag
Quote from: "Rocinante"Or don´t use anything at all, except tyre irons and brute force. I...
They are just using brute force differently.
How about this. Brute force applied by a ratchet strap around tire thru spokes. Chunk??of wood or tall socket orr is pressed into bead? Might need something on the other side too? but basically idea is tightening the strap forces the object to push the bead downward.
I don't know if the strap putting pressure on other parts of tire will resist the shape change of tire and not allow the bead to break
This is untested idea
Quote from: "Rocinante"Point is, at least for those that take the bike to odd places, how do you do a roadside puncture fix if you need all those tools?
Dag
I agree with you but there is still a few pointers in the videos that help with repairs made on the road or in the boonie's such as placing the tube on first instead of after you have the first side of the tire on. This can also be done when repairing a pucture in the tube, don't remove it completely from the wheel, leave the valve stem in place to assist in reinstalling the tube. My hardest part of repairing tires on our race bikes has always been getting the valve stem back in without having to fight the stiff sidewalls.
My point being, there is always little tricks others use that can help you, regardless of the system they use to repair flats or change tires, but YMMV.
Quote from: "Hemibee"I agree with you but there is still a few pointers in the videos that help with repairs made on the road or in the boonie's such as placing the tube on first instead of after you have the first side of the tire on. This can also be done when repairing a pucture in the tube, don't remove it completely from the wheel, leave the valve stem in place to assist in reinstalling the tube. My hardest part of repairing tires on our race bikes has always been getting the valve stem back in without having to fight the stiff sidewalls.
My point being, there is always little tricks others use that can help you, regardless of the system they use to repair flats or change tires, but YMMV.
Absolutely, and I didn´t mean to dismiss everything in the videos, I was merely refering to the big tools that were suggested. If you instead do the repair at home without big tools, you´re better prepared if and when it happens in the rough.
Maybe I´m a bit big mouthed about this. Come to think of it I had been a biker for ten years before I removed a tyre for the first time. And I did it simply because I had to, since we were far from any help.
I agree with you about the valve stem. It´s a pain i the ass, and if you can locate the puncture and only pull the necessary part of the tube, the job is so much easier to do.
Dag