Hi All,
On the way to work yesterday my 2006 Tiger 955i died :icon_sad:
Was about 3 mins into a ride, travelling at 25mph approaching a roundabout when it spluttered and the fuel and ECU light came on and the engine died. It spluttered back into life briefly, then the fuel and ECU light came back on and it died for good :icon_sad:
Dumped it in the local pub carpark and left it overnight. Pushed it the half a mile home (uphill !! :BangHead) this morning and put it on TuneECU.
After trying several different ways to connect to TuneECU I keep getting a message saying "ECU is not responding, try attaching cable again".
The ignition turns on, the starter fires, the headlights work, I've checked all the fuses, it doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in when the ignition is turned on. Do you think the ECU has given up the ghost, or is there anything else I can try ??
Any help would be warmly received :icon_biggrin:
Graeme.
posted on RAT too.
First shot in the dark isn't there a hole under the ECU in the under tray that lets the scht in'
I'd also pull every connector on the bike apart my tiger hasn't seen a winters day in its life but when I have checked them they haven't been great.
And strangely enough mine has has had habit of recent of doing the same when it feels like it but I've been lucky enough to whip the clutch in and it's fire up straight away.
Oh and if it is the ECU doesn't Bixxer have one forsale.
Hi Chris,
Will be giving the wiring and connectors a check later on.
The fuel pump wires are measuring 11.something volts with the ignition on. However, I can't hear the fuel pump priming when the ignition is turned on as normal, so I bypassed the fuel pump with wires straight to the battery and the fuel pump works ok. Tried the ignition switch with the fuel pump wired straight from the battery and it still wouldn't fire ?? :icon_scratch:
Cheers,
Graeme.
It's a square one job then,I'd pull the tank and take a plug out to see if you have a spark and go from there.
Aint got a Triumph alarm have you?
Yeah, it's got the factory fitted unit, and I've got the bypass plug. The bypass plug connector is in a tamper proof box, and I'm not at the stage where I want to destroy it.
Just wondering why TuneECU won't talk to the ECU ??
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 17, 2016, 07:28:22 PM
Yeah, it's got the factory fitted unit, and I've got the bypass plug. The bypass plug connector is in a tamper proof box, and I'm not at the stage where I want to destroy it.
Just wondering why TuneECU won't talk to the ECU ??
When did you last connect ?. Same laptop? Any new stuff on laptop? Have you checked in device manager that port is allocated correctly etc
Last connected in May when I bought the cable and put the TOR map in. No problems since. Wonder if the cable has given up the ghost ?? Didn't look in device manager, but tried several USB ports.
Might try and find someone local with a spare ECU to try before I go out and buy one.
I have heard that the crank position sensor can fail for no obvious reason. Everything seems OK, starter electrics etc. but the bike just won't run, at least that's the way it was for me.
Thanks Ossian,
Will look into that too :icon_wink:
Bit of a cheek me posting this because Tim did all the hard work but when he came to my house to have a look at mine his lap top and cable worked fine at his home and then it wouldn't at mine he tipped the world upside down trying to sort because it wouldn't work on his either.
I'd bought a cheapo cable when Bixxer came and that went in the bin,Tim found an all singing all dancing version and there was a helluva difference,is it the answer to your problem?
What I forgot do you have a spark?
Hi Chris,
Haven't got to the spark yet, but when I turn the bike over I can smell fuel, but there's no obvious signs of ignition ??
Decosse mentioned on RAT about voltage across fuses 6 & 7. They should read 12v. Mine only read 3.7v. All other fuses read 12v ??
I'm just waiting for him to reply to see where we go from there. Although not electrically gifted, I don't think the ECU and fuel pump relays are getting the voltage they need to operate, but I don't know why, lol :m
Also.......put the alarm blanking plug on, but still the bike didn't fire. So don't think it's the alarm.
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 18, 2016, 01:08:36 PM
Hi Chris,
Haven't got to the spark yet, but when I turn the bike over I can smell fuel, but there's no obvious signs of ignition ??
Decosse mentioned on RAT about voltage across fuses 6 & 7. They should read 12v. Mine only read 3.7v. All other fuses read 12v ??
I'm just waiting for him to reply to see where we go from there. Although not electrically gifted, I don't think the ECU and fuel pump relays are getting the voltage they need to operate, but I don't know why, lol :m
Also.......put the alarm blanking plug on, but still the bike didn't fire. So don't think it's the alarm.
Have you had a look at the 30amp fuse on the side of the battery? That can cause all sorts of weirdness, and looking at the wiring diagram its looks as though it may supply voltage straight to the ECU relay as well as fuses 6 & 7. You need to check that 30amp fuse and the holder really closely, even if not blown Ive seen some sort of partially blown, as I said weirdness
Yes mate, that fuse is ok.
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 18, 2016, 04:27:23 PM
Yes mate, that fuse is ok.
ah , ha, your awake then. Ok mate, maybe the ECU relay??. There isnt a fuel pump relay on the later bikes by the way, think its controlled directly from the ECU.
Well, yes, as long as the "Haynes Book of lies", can be believed, the wiring diagram definitely shows the power for fuses 6 & 7 coming off the ECU relay, think youve gotta to be looking at this area. Now your gonna ask which is the ECU relay?. Not sure, but think its one of the relays by the fuse box itself
Confirmed, ECU relay is R/H one in photo below, L/H is headlight cut-out relay. Interestingly, either will stop fuel pump priming if pulled.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/cockneytaff/temporary_zpsqlaatmcf.jpg)
Yes, I am awake,,,,,just :sleepy1
Yeah, I've pulled both those relays and swapped them round, but to no avail. I now think, as daft and simple as it sounds, that I've got a duff battery that may be affecting things.
I've had it on charge over the last couple of days. Just checked it. It's saying full charge on the charger. Showing 12v plus on the multimeter. As soon as the charger is off it drops it's charge and seems to keep dropping slowly to under 12v. If I turn the ignition on with the twin headlights still on it drops again, and keeps dropping. Better not be something as simple as that, or I'll never live it down !! :icon_frown:
And TuneECU will still not connect, just says ECU not responding.....
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 18, 2016, 05:33:17 PM
Yes, I am awake,,,,,just :sleepy1
Yeah, I've pulled both those relays and swapped them round, but to no avail. I now think, as daft and simple as it sounds, that I've got a duff battery that may be affecting things.
I've had it on charge over the last couple of days. Just checked it. It's saying full charge on the charger. Showing 12v plus on the multimeter. As soon as the charger is off it drops it's charge and seems to keep dropping slowly to under 12v. If I turn the ignition on with the twin headlights still on it drops again, and keeps dropping. Better not be something as simple as that, or I'll never live it down !! :icon_frown:
And TuneECU will still not connect, just says ECU not responding.....
Could easily be mate, would also explain Tune ECU not connecting, think it has problems below about 12.6v
Just been to have another look, was checking the battery with the multimeter again, bike still on charge.............
............turned the ignition on and heard the fuel pump prime, and it fired up !! :icon_redface:
Got a bit excited, thinking "that shouldn't happen", so switched it back off straight away. Tried it again, and it wouldn't start, tried a few times and it wouldn't start, lol :icon_scratch:
I think that's it, something as simple as a knackered battery. Will buy a new one tomorrow and see what happens.
I've a very good friend who you would all know who speacility is not giving the actual :icon_biggrin: sounds like this might be the same.
What type of battery is it? Lead acids die nicely but those poxy gel things just drop off a cliff
Well, with a new battery on, I was hopeful, but unfortunately it's the same old story. Decosse seems to think it's something to do with the ECU relay, so will have a look into that :icon_frown:
If it was mine I'd have had spead all over the garage floor by now ranging from checking connectors to is it sparking and talk to Bixxer about his ECU for 35 quid is it actually pumping fuel? just a process of illimination
Lol :icon_lol: Unfortunately, the girlfriend is round, so I can't get in to the garage to look further into it. I know, I know, how come she takes precedence over Tiger !!
Will have a look tomorrow, got to be something to do with wiring, will be checking for a spark too ?? :^_^
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 20, 2016, 06:24:38 PMthe girlfriend is round, so I can't get in to the garage to look further into it.
I must have read that the wrong way :mut
Quote from: JayDub on November 20, 2016, 07:37:19 PM
I must have read that the wrong way :mut
Ha, sooooo tempted to say you're not far off !! :icon_wink:
I was thinking battery right from the off, but since you've replaced that at least that box is ticked.
Simple check, temporary wires straight from the battery to the fuel pump. If it starts then you know its either the relay or a lazy fuse (they do that, dunno why they just do. They check out ok for continuity but won't pass current).
I don't have my wiring diagram to hand to see whether Decosse's solution is correct but Tim seems to think so and he's good with wires so it sounds like you're at least barking up the right tree.
With the new battery fitted will TUNECU connect??
Well...............I finally got a bit of spare time to tinker with Tiger.
In the end I concentrated on the fact that fuses 6 & 7 were only getting 3.6 volts across them, when they should be getting 12v. With the ignition on, I connected the multimeter to the battery negative and fuse 6 and I wiggled wires here, and wiggled wires there, checking the main ground, etc.
In the end, when I was wiggling the wires near the rectifier I got 12 volts at the fuse, and I could hear the ECU relay clicking. I tried starting the bike and it fired up straight away, then fired up several more times.
Although fixed short term, I think there must be more to it than just a bad wire. I've read the threads about the issues with charging and rectifiers.
On the multimeter I got:
At the battery, ignition off - 13.1v
At the battery, ignition on (headlight relay out) - 12.5v and dropping slowly.
With the bike on tickover - 13.4v
At 3,000 revs - 13.0v.
So I think my issues are sorted short term, but I'm sure there will be more to it than that.
A big thanks to all that helped, and to Decosse on Rat :icon_salut:
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 22, 2016, 03:17:15 PM
Well...............I finally got a bit of spare time to tinker with Tiger.
In the end I concentrated on the fact that fuses 6 & 7 were only getting 3.6 volts across them, when they should be getting 12v. With the ignition on, I connected the multimeter to the battery negative and fuse 6 and I wiggled wires here, and wiggled wires there, checking the main ground, etc.
In the end, when I was wiggling the wires near the rectifier I got 12 volts at the fuse, and I could hear the ECU relay clicking. I tried starting the bike and if fired up straight away, then fired up several more times.
Although fixed short term, I think there must be more to it than just a bad wire. I've read the threads about the issues with charging and rectifiers.
On the multimeter I got:
At the battery, ignition off - 13.1v
At the battery, ignition on (headlight relay out) - 12.5v and dropping slowly.
With the bike on tickover - 13.4v
At 3,000 revs - 13.0v.
So I think my issues are sorted short term, but I'm sure there will be more to it than that.
A big thanks to all that helped, and to Decosse on Rat :icon_salut:
Funny you should find that, a few weeks back I was getting low voltage with the bike running, I found that the multi-pin plug from the rectifier into the loom was half out, took it apart, cleaned and got it back together, now Im back to 14v +.
Which brings us back to pulling all the connectors apart :icon_biggrin: as I said in the post my Tiger even with 40,000 on it has never seen a winters day in its life and my connectorswere not great so God knows how you all year round lot get.
Although even with the cars we have I put at least half a can of WD under the bonnet of each one every 6 weeks to keep the damp out scht out.
Oh..........and TuneECU connected first time :icon_wink:
It only came back with the usual fuel pump faults from having the tank off.
Clean and use plenty of dielectric grease, it's cheaper than Voltarol and just as effective at reducing back ache, any model any year.
Just checked the stator (strange name for an alternator !! :icon_lol:), after checking out a few vid's on YouTube. Especially the Mark Robbins 1050 Tiger one. Thanks Mark if you're on here :icon_salut:
Multimeter set at 200 ohms, got 0.3 on all contacts, and it seemed to pass the ground test.
Checked the rectifier and got: 584 584 585 / 533 537 533. With my limited knowledge, that seems to check out ok.
Bike wouldn't start again with most of it back together, but with a wiggle of the stator wires at the connector, the relay clicked and the fuel pump primed. Hope that doesn't come back to bite me in the ass !! :icon_frown:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on November 22, 2016, 09:23:03 PM
Clean and use plenty of dielectric grease, it's cheaper than Voltarol and just as effective at reducing back ache, any model any year.
And he prefers it to Vaseline now :nod
Also make sure that the terminals are secure inside the block connectors, sometimes they push out. The female terminals can open up, so make sure they're squeezed tight too... but not too tight.
Well, I managed 70 miles trouble free, then the dreaded engine management light came on and the bike cut out. It struggled back into life a few times, but called it a day on a snowy (not even a) "B" road in darkest North Yorkshire. I managed to push it up a bit of a hill before free wheeling in the dark, with no lights on, down to the village where my girlfriends' father lives. Talk about lucky !! :icon_lol:
Will have a look at it tomorrow.
Brave man :bowdown
Hmmm, I spent most of Friday taking Tiger to bits with just the basic 955 toolkit (couldn't stop laughing !! :icon_sad:). After a lot of prodding and poking it sprung reluctantly back to life, but you could hear the ECU relay clicking in and out of life. I put it all back together and was hoping it would get me back to Hartlepool on the Saturday afternoon.
Went to start it on Saturday and you guessed it - it wouldn't start. After a quick prod and poke it started briefly, then gave up with a flat (new) battery :icon_frown:. That was enough for me, I rang the AA for recovery stating the problem and the fact that it couldn't be reliably fixed, so please send out a recovery vehicle capable of taking me home. You've guessed it again haven't you !! They sent someone out without a trailer so I couldn't be recovered home. He checked it out electrically and told me what I already knew. He also told me that when they sent him the job he queried it and told them they should send someone with a trailer !! :BangHead .
So eventually they sent another van with a trailer and six and a half hours later I was home. I took it off the trailer, turned the ignition on, the fuel pump primed and..................yes, you've guessed it again haven't you................ it started first time !! :bug_eye
Soooo frustrating. Back to the drawing board :icon_wink:
Still think the big clue was early on with the voltage drop at fuses 6 & 7 (Both fed from ECM relay) in turn fed from 30amp fuse. You did change the 30amp fuse didnt you?
No, I didn't change any fuses. For me if a fuse hasn't blown, it's ok. Although I've read that's not quite the case ?? Will be doing that now though, changing out the two relays next to the fuse box, and checking the wiring through a bit more thoroughly.
I like trying to fix things by myself, but when it comes to wiring, I must admit I'm struggling. Might have to admit defeat and get an auto electrician in :icon_frown:. There was a lot of corrosion on the wiring connectors at the back of the ECU relay.
Does anyone know what the other relay next to the ECU one controls ??
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 27, 2016, 04:02:39 PM
No, I didn't change any fuses. For me if a fuse hasn't blown, it's ok. Although I've read that's not quite the case ?? Will be doing that now though, changing out the two relays next to the fuse box, and checking the wiring through a bit more thoroughly.
I like trying to fix things by myself, but when it comes to wiring, I must admit I'm struggling. Might have to admit defeat and get an auto electrician in :icon_frown:. There was a lot of corrosion on the wiring connectors at the back of the ECU relay.
Does anyone know what the other relay next to the ECU one controls ??
Yep, headlight cut-out,. And yes, we have seen 30amp fuses that arent technically blown but can cause issues. Actually, I should say, on mine its the headlight cut-out, I think Triumph moved the relays about through the years.
Good stuff mate, thanks :icon_lol:
Something to think about. Fuses have two connectors, input and output, the fuse will only blow due to the current passing through it i.e. by the load on the output side. You can develop just as much voltage drop / heat / current leakage to earth on the input side (which of course isn't protected) so it's definitely important to check the fuse holders completely.
Well, I've been messing around with the bike all day and I'm at the point where the ECM relay energizes, the fuel pump primes, and it starts (on the stand), but I don't know why ??
I've had the ECM relay on and off a million times and had all the wires out the back and cleaned up. I've had the fuse box off, checked all the wires on the back, sprayed WD40 everywhere, wiggled the wires on the crank position sensor, had the starter solenoid off and cleaned up, had the main wiring harness connector block off (the one under the injector rail that takes the wires from back to the front of the bike) and sprayed with WD40, etc.
First it got to the stage where the ECM relay was clicking in and out at ten to the dozen, but then it settled down and when I turned the key in the ignition the fuel pump would prime and the relay would energize every time ??
So it's fixed for now, but I haven't got a clue what it was, and I'm sure it'll come back - soooo frustrating when you don't really know what you're doing, lol :icon_frown:
Yep, that would wind me up, not knowing. Relay clicking 10 to the dozen? Was it the relay then, or had you already changed it?
Quote from: Chris Canning on November 17, 2016, 04:15:31 PM
I'd also pull every connector on the bike apart my tiger hasn't seen a winters day in its life but when I have checked them they haven't been great
And applies anyone else reading this thread who either has never done it or not for a long time.
I know little about the Girlys, but that sure sounds like connectors/wiring.
If they are as manky as you suggest around the ECU connectors etc, might be worth checking no cables are broken just aft of the connector crimp.
You also mentioned wiggling wires around the rectifier., you may have a power feed with a corroded or broken connection.
My Steamer had a bad connection where the fuse box plugs into the harness, and would just die with no warning.
I would assume the Girlies don't have a plug in fuse box then?
Quote from: London_Phil on November 29, 2016, 11:23:52 AM
I know little about the Girlys, but that sure sounds like connectors/wiring.
If they are as manky as you suggest around the ECU connectors etc, might be worth checking no cables are broken just aft of the connector crimp.
You also mentioned wiggling wires around the rectifier., you may have a power feed with a corroded or broken connection.
My Steamer had a bad connection where the fuse box plugs into the harness, and would just die with no warning.
I would assume the Girlies don't have a plug in fuse box then?
No, hardwired to loom
Quote from: Timbox2 on November 29, 2016, 07:34:46 AM
Yep, that would wind me up, not knowing. Relay clicking 10 to the dozen? Was it the relay then, or had you already changed it?
No, I thinkthe relay is good, because when i swapped it with the other one next to it, it did the same. I did recrimp one of the relay wires, as it was a very poor connection. Still think the wiring problem was further in the system, just don't know where, lol !
Will be having another look in a couple of days. From What Decosse has said on RAT, the rectifier and stator wires have nothing to do with the ECM relay clicking in and out, that was just a coincidence.
Quote from: Tiger-G on November 29, 2016, 10:24:06 PM
From What Decosse has said on RAT, the rectifier and stator wires have nothing to do with the ECM relay clicking in and out, that was just a coincidence.
:nod R/R is on the feed side and goes to the battery, relays are on the load side being supplied by the battery.
Ok, so you've narrowed it down to the ECU relay clucking in and out. I think you changed the relay so it's a known good one thus eliminating the possibility of an iffy relay. You've cleaned up the connectors to it and associated wiring so you are confident in that wiring? That really only leaves the power energising the relay. I don't have my wiring diagram to hand but, from memory, it's either energised from the ign switch or from the ECU when the ECU is energised from the ign switch. It's then kept energised by the ECU until the ECU shuts it down after ign off. So you are looking at the ECU connectors or the power to the ECU from the ign switch next I think.
Orrrrrr, the ground connection from the relay.....
Ign switch?, some Steamer threads shows guys having issues with dirty connections/bad wiring where the switch connector slides across the pins, or the flexing of the wires when the headstock is turned.
Don't you just love intermittent electrical faults...
Hmmm, been playing around with it again today. Still getting the 3.6volts to fuses 6&7, and therefore not enough voltage to power up the ECM relay.
Fiddled with the wiring loom and connectors here, there and every bloody where, but nothing obvious. I ended up checking the wires around the starter solenoid again, and heard the fuel pump relay kick in, the ECM relay click and the multimeter read 12 volts at fuses 6&7. Not sure if it's just a coincidence, but time for work so will have another look tomorrow.
Have you checked the main engine ground? Just below battery on top of crankcase. Bad grounds are responsible for more electrical weirdness than anything else.
Quote from: Timbox2 on December 02, 2016, 03:23:00 PM
Have you checked the main engine ground? Just below battery on top of crankcase. Bad grounds are responsible for more electrical weirdness than anything else.
Hi,
Yes, I've had the main ground off, cleaned the terminals up, applied copperslip and put it back on.
I'm now at the stage where I've got the front fairing off, most of the connector blocks and wiring free from cable ties, and wiggling away to see what happens. I think the problem is up front somewhere, but I don't know where yet. Will also be taking the ignition barrel off when I get a chance to check the wiring there.
When I put handlebar risers on I put the bars right back for better posture when riding. I noticed when turning the bars fully it was stretching a couple of the wiring runs. Might be something to to with that, but as usual I may be clutching at straws
And then again maybe not :augie
Please tell me you've not been using "copaslip" in your connector blocks :nono I don't want to start that :grnb again but suffice to say, don't.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on December 05, 2016, 05:55:33 PM
And then again maybe not :augie
Please tell me you've not been using "copaslip" in your connector blocks :nono I don't want to start that :grnb again but suffice to say, don't.
Lol, yes, maybe not !! :icon_wink:
Just used copaslip on my engine earth connection, not on the connector blocks. Will be dielectric greasing them.
With much fun and games I got the ignition barrel off tonight, to check the wiring there. Had to take the upper fork assembly off to do it. Couldn't get the tamper-proof bolts out, so had to drill them. Couldn't get an "easyout" to work on them, so looking forward to the fun and games of sorting that one out !! Just goes from bad to worse. You've got to laugh :icon_frown:
That's a relief to hear :XXsunsmile
Take your time with the security bolts, they're usually high tensile and secured with high strength Loctite, so not a job to be rushed. Heating in an oven for half an hour (not above 60°C) might help, just remember to flush out the lock barrel and relube again, same goes for the actual switch but you'll be checking that for issue's anyway :augie
Looks like a helicoil job for the ignition barrel bolts - soooo frustrating !! :BangHead
And, I've given up on getting the bike going, time to get a professional in. Again, if anyone has a crystal clear copy of a 2006 Tiger 955i wiring diagram, that would be helpful for whoever I get in to look at it. Still can't find a clear copy on t'internet.
Cheers.
Quick update on Tiger.
As he was still in bits, I continued my wire and and connector block wiggling in the vain hope I would find a loose connection, etc. I didn't, and at one point where ever I wiggled the wiring it caused the ECM relay to click in and out.
But then, for whatever reason, it seemed to fix itself. Every time I turned the ignition on the fuel pump it primed, I got 12 volts at fuses 6 & 7 ?? I've been out on it for a spin and it was ok, but don't expect the reliability to be there long term.
You must have done one wiggle right :wings
Intermittent faults are the worst..
Quote from: Tiger-G on December 13, 2016, 09:01:31 PM
Quick update on Tiger.
As he was still in bits, I continued my wire and and connector block wiggling in the vain hope I would find a loose connection, etc. I didn't, and at one point where ever I wiggled the wiring it caused the ECM relay to click in and out.
But then, for whatever reason, it seemed to fix itself. Every time I turned the ignition on the fuel pump it primed, I got 12 volts at fuses 6 & 7 ?? I've been out on it for a spin and it was ok, but don't expect the reliability to be there long term.
Which "point" were you wiggling when it clicked???
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 14, 2016, 10:56:59 PM
Which "point" were you wiggling when it clicked???
Lol, if I knew that, I'd have it sussed !! :icon_lol: Think something's either put itself right, or the fact I've had every connector on and off a few times has jiggled something into place ??
If I understood wiring diagrams a bit better, I think I could have got to the source of the problem. I knew I was only getting 3.6 volts to fuses 6 & 7, which wasn't energizing the ECM relay, but where that voltage drop was occurring, I'm not sure. That's where my electrical knowledge let me down, and the fact I couldn't get a crystal clear copy of a Tiger wiring diagram to trace the wiring didn't help. I think it's something to do with the brown and pink wire (NK) from the ECM relay to fuses 6 & 7, and where that wiring goes from there, but not sure ?? The attached crystal clear copy of a Speed Triple wiring diagram is very close to a Tiger's, so I now think I know where to check if it happens again.
As I say, I'm not very good with wiring, so I'm not sure how the voltage drop gets to fuses 6 & 7. Whether it goes to the ECM relay, fuse box, O2 sensor, injectors, purge control valve, ignition coils or fan first or last (if you know what I mean ??). And as dumb as it sounds, I'm not sure how to test for a bad earth to any of these ?? :icon_redface:
I understand it all a lot more now than I did, but as i say, I'm still struggling a bit :icon_wink:
Honestly mate, think youve got to give up, wrong wiring diagram for starters. Similar but wrong. Think of it like the London Tube map that someones changed the stations about on,and added some that arent there, you aint gonna find Cockfosters are you. Think your reading the diagram back to front too if you see what I mean. The Haynes manual for once seems fairly accurate with the Tiger wiring diagram. You might be right and reseating stuff has sorted it. Me, I would not really be able to trust it. A decent auto-sparks would probably pin it down in an hour or so with a Haynes manual. Sometimes you gotta spend money and hand it over. Or just ride the bike and hope, your call.
I found my Haynes this afternoon, I'll have a look tomorrow and see how I can get a copy of the diagram to you,
Quote from: Timbox2 on December 15, 2016, 07:53:06 AM
Honestly mate, think youve got to give up, wrong wiring diagram for starters. Similar but wrong. Think of it like the London Tube map that someones changed the stations about on,and added some that arent there, you aint gonna find Cockfosters are you. Think your reading the diagram back to front too if you see what I mean. The Haynes manual for once seems fairly accurate with the Tiger wiring diagram. You might be right and reseating stuff has sorted it. Me, I would not really be able to trust it. A decent auto-sparks would probably pin it down in an hour or so with a Haynes manual. Sometimes you gotta spend money and hand it over. Or just ride the bike and hope, your call.
I hear what you're sayin' brother :icon_salut: Will see how it goes. If it breaks down again, time to see a specialist :icon_lol:
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 15, 2016, 10:46:00 PM
I found my Haynes this afternoon, I'll have a look tomorrow and see how I can get a copy of the diagram to you,
Thanks for the offer :icon_biggrin:
Just a quick update for anyone viewing this thread with similar problems.
It's been two months and 500 miles plus since my electrical issues. In the end I took all the wiring connectors apart, cleaned as many as I could, and filled them with silicone grease (dielectric grease to some). The first time I took the bike out it spluttered to a stop after 30 metres, lol :icon_frown:
But since then it's been ok, and running like normal. The fuel economy is down a bit, but I can live with that for now.
I have no idea what I did to fix it, and suspect it just fixed itself :wheel
I suspect the ECU was having a mid life crisis, but will never really know :icon_lol:
Thanks to all that helped out with suggestions, etc, much appreciated :icon_salut:
Good to hear that feller - all the best with it - let me know how you get on. ;0)
Another update a year later, and Tiger hasn't missed a beat all season. 4,500 miles later and still going strong, I'm putting it down to a mid life crisis :icon_wink: