Where on the temp guage on a 97 is normal operating range. My fan comes on at 1/2 way to red. Is my guage way off?
Does no one have a temp guage that works?? surely someone must,eh? Or how bout a infared temp sensor reading on the head.
Gee guys?????????
I've had a 900i. Normal temperature was just above the needle rest in the scale and fan at about half way up. I think that is the right reading. If it's too cold, it wouldn't come of the rest (never happened but I guess) and the fan has to kick in way before it's in the red zone.
No problems I guess.
Apache,
My '98 Steamer does the same thing.. normal temp is just off the bottom mark. Fan goes on around the mid-point. This seems to be very common on these bikes. I would prefer it read a little higher for "normal" but what can you do? I'll live with in this way....
Brendan
My '96 Steamer is exactly the same, the needle hardly moves in normal circumstances, and the fan kicks in at about half way.
I agree it would have been better if the normal running temp was about 25% as quite often with the lack of movement I worry that the temp sender has developed a fault (A common problem I understand).
My '96 Steamer is exactly the same, the needle hardly moves in normal circumstances, and the fan kicks in at about half way.
I agree it would have been better if the normal running temp was about 25% as quite often with the lack of movement I worry that the temp sender has developed a fault (A common problem I understand).
ISTR there can be a "low temp reading" problem caused by air bubbles in the coolant. The sensor is in the top of the engine (I can't remember exactly where) where any air bubbles will also collect. So it can end up that the sensor is surrounded by "hot air" rather than "hot coolant".
I think this only became a real problem with the injected engines as the ECU needs to know the engine temp to keep things running correctly, The "under reading" of the temperature caused the ECU to keep the mixture rich as it thought the engine was still warming up...
Mind you, having said that the gauge on my '05 doesn't move up much either. The pointer normally sits "just above the bolt head" on the gauge.
Also, ISTR the fan is controlled by a temperature switch in the body of the radiator NOT the sensor that drives the gauge.
Peter
Thanks abunch guys, Puts my mind at ease at least. Im sure running to cold will screw things up as bad as to hot, well almost. Im gonna take some infared temp readings around the head etc when its good and hot to see what comes up. Its 105+ here so I can flog it on some country roads for all its worth. :twisted:
Timely thread for me....
I have been wondering about the temp guage on my 01 955. I have had the bike for about 3000 miles now and it has read low on the guage until my last trip. The needle reached the red on a dirt road. I shut it off to cool of course. The majority of the trip the needle was up near the H. Even in rain and 70 degrees.
I am told the bubbling in the expansion tank is normal :?:
It has run near the cool end of the guage the last couple of short rides.
The fan kicks on in the middle of the guage.
My Daytona 955 has none of these issues.
Is there any advice/ suggestions from long time Tiger owners?
Thanks,
Deano
Quote from: "deano955"Timely thread for me....
I am told the bubbling in the expansion tank is normal :?:
It has run near the cool end of the guage the last couple of short rides.
The fan kicks on in the middle of the guage.
My Daytona 955 has none of these issues.
Is there any advice/ suggestions from long time Tiger owners?
Thanks,
Deano
1stly bubbling in the expansion tank is NOT normal.
As far as I'm concerned there is nothing wrong with the gauge or it's calibration. As described above the needle should be just above the cool mark in normal use. In traffic and slow riding the needle will climb to the middle when the fan should kick in and keep it there or there abouts. I find that as soon as I get up to speed again the needle quickly drops down toward the cool mark again. This doesn't mean the engine is running cold!
If your needle gets to the red there's something wrong. The most common cause on other threads here (do a search) is that the system has not been bled properly and air bubbles are causing miss readings and over heating.
can someone please give me an idiots guide to bleeding the coolant system. i believe my bike ( 885i ) is running rich. i only get 150 miles per tank and my exhaust has scorch marks coming through the metal on the can, aswell as black soot all over the end of the pipe.
if air bubbles are known to be an issue then this could be a good place to start.
my temp guage struggles to get above the second cold mark and the bike sometimes revs too high when i pull up at lights etc .
i'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing, but i always find that it's better to have an idiots guide, than not enough information
Is your bike a early carbed bike? 885? What do you mean schorched? sounds like your way to rich. Is your choke off all the way? you shouldent get any RPM fluctations, it should just run like crap if its to rich. Check the air filter lately? does it seem to be on 1 or more cylinders(miss or?) .
it's an 885i, by scorched i mean in a couple of places, you can see that the exhaust has got too hot and this has discolored the metal in two places, the rpm doesn't fluctuate, it just revs to high when at lights etc, as if the choke is on, but of course it's not manual being the injection model. i thought that if it was a fault to do with the ecu, then the engine management light would come on, which is why i was thinking it may be the temp being too low and the ecu compensating. it doesn't miss and the air filter is fine, but you can feel that the power is way down
I no electronics geneius. but it would seem the system is compensating for a cold engine by richening it up. Sounds like air is possibly in the system or a bad sending unit somewhere. air in the system will cause the temp unit to see nothing to take a read off of. your engine could be near meltdown conditions but the lack of coolant on the sensor will cause a bogus read . Time to visit a good dealer for a diagnosis.
ah yes, a good dealer. the topic of many a thread, but they are so few and far between!
Blacktiger,
I searched and found a few threads though none described bubbling in the expansion tank. It seems a reasonable conclusion there is air in the system. The question is:
Anyone know the steps to bleed the cooling system? My dealer, Erico Motorsports in Denver, says the bubbles are normal. That don't do much for insuring confidence if owners say that bubbles are NOT normal. I would prefer to do the bleed myself but admit to not knowing the steps.
Thanks fellas,
Deano
Bubbling in the expansion tank is not normal. The level shouldn't even raise much. Liquid cooling is a closed system and should only contain coolant. coolant doesn't bubble unless it's overheating. So, bubbles come from things that shouldn't be. A faulty radiator cap, air in the system or worse, a broken head gasket (but it then usually starts to consume coolant).
After doing some poking on my 97 I have seen some issues that might help you. If all the systems are of the open type( cap on rad and exp tank) then I see a problem ever getting it bled. On earlies there is no bleeded so one must use caution when servicing it. When the bike is on the side stand the cap is on the left which is the low side of the rad. Typically to evacuate all the air the cap must be in the highest position when it cools down and draws the previously expanded out coolant. This a a basic air will go to the highest point deal. I have set my bike against the garage wall on the throttle side leaned that way several times to help burp the system. Another possible air enterance area is faulty lines or clamps from the coolant tank to the radiator. a small amount of air entering here when things cool and coolant is drawn back in will start the air in the system all over. Look at old cars before coolant recovery systems were invented. You never saw a radiator full. After it was run hard and it expelled some coolant from expansion you always had air in there.
My 955 Tiger was blowing bubbles and sucking air. There was some junk under the radiator cap. I couldn't find a new one while it was apart so just cleaned up the old one and the problem went away. It took a couple of warm ups to get the air out. If your lucky a new cap may fix your trouble.
Yes, thats one more thing I forgot to mention. If anything gets under the cap rubber seals it also will screw up its performance. Particulary the center part where there is a little round metal disc, its like a check valve of sorts.Kinda like the junk people put in car radiators (alumaseal).