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Talk => Speaking Of Bikes... => Topic started by: aeronca on September 03, 2008, 08:19:50 PM

Title: synthetic oil
Post by: aeronca on September 03, 2008, 08:19:50 PM
ok guy's and gal's - the guy i bought my bike from said he ran 10w40 mobile 1. since then i also have used 10w40 mobile 1 synthetic "motorcycle oil". do any of you use this, or do some of you use regular mobile 1 and not the one labeled, "motorcycle"? is there really a big differance between the two? i understand that it's not just engine oil, and that it also is used in tranny, but my old reliable 82' honda civic used regular engine oil in its trany. the only diff- i can see is about $4.00 a quart. please school me on this.     thanks,       eric.
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Post by: littlefield on September 03, 2008, 09:26:35 PM
Supposedly the Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil is 100% Group 4 base stock, oil truly created synthetically. The car stuff is a mix of Group 3 and 4.  If you want to get deep into lubricants go to bobistheoilguy dot com. They have a motorcycle section.
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Post by: JetdocX on September 03, 2008, 11:12:01 PM
Any motorcycle specific oil is fine to use.
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Post by: John Stenhouse on September 04, 2008, 01:23:14 AM
The generally given reason, and I am unsure how real this is, car oil contains friction modifiers which don't agree with the wet clutch on motorcycles. They cause the clutch to slip. Now that I know is true but I used Duckhams semi synth on my 885 and rang their tech line. They're response was it should be ok, but it wasn't tested on motorcycles and don't abuse the clutch and it should be fine.

The bit I'm unsure about is how much use is too much when it comes to clutch damage.
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Post by: Mustang on September 04, 2008, 01:39:26 AM
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg)
Wal-Mart 20 bucks . works
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Post by: fano on September 04, 2008, 02:44:11 AM
Quote from: "Mustang"(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg)
Wal-Mart 20 bucks . works

 :thumbsup
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Post by: aeronca on September 04, 2008, 06:16:04 AM
thanks for the info guy's. i'll have to get some of that rotella - i like the price. mobile 1 is draining my life blood.
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Post by: Stretch on September 04, 2008, 04:19:03 PM
Quote from: "Mustang"(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg)
Wal-Mart 20 bucks . works

Same here.
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Post by: 2004Tiger on September 04, 2008, 09:19:51 PM
Quote from: "Mustang"(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg)
Wal-Mart 20 bucks . works
Rotella T for me. Synthetic, but it is really a highly refined dino oil. The diesel additive package makes it good for a wet clutch. I use it in all my vehicles, Volvo, Dodge Cummins, and MC. The viscosity range is perfect for Colorado.
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Post by: NebraskaRat on September 04, 2008, 11:34:15 PM
I know quite a few of you guys are using the Rotella T out there, are there no concerns with the 5w on the cold end of the scale giving enough lubrication on cold morning startups? (20° F it's Nebraska)  I may switch to this stuff also.

Mike
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Post by: 2004Tiger on September 04, 2008, 11:58:11 PM
Quote from: "NebraskaRat"I know quite a few of you guys are using the Rotella T out there, are there no concerns with the 5w on the cold end of the scale giving enough lubrication on cold morning startups? (20° F it's Nebraska)  I may switch to this stuff also. Mike
During a very cold start-up, the 5w viscosity is what the engine needs to pump a good volume of oil immediately. You may be thinking that a thick oil drains down overnight less than a thin oil, but that is not true. The film strength of the oil determines drain down, and a diesel rated oil has excellent film strength. This is a high quality oil in all respects.
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Post by: aeronca on September 05, 2008, 06:11:03 AM
2004Tiger - hows the weather out there? i was just out there last month - went to heritge square and rode the alpine slide. next time i come out we'll have to have a brew.    eric.    oh and thanks for the good info on the oil.
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Post by: 2004Tiger on September 05, 2008, 09:21:17 AM
Quote from: "aeronca"2004Tiger - hows the weather out there? i was just out there last month - went to heritge square and rode the alpine slide. next time i come out we'll have to have a brew.    eric.    oh and thanks for the good info on the oil.
Next time, PM me and for sure we'll get together. I suppose you had hot weather here last month, it has been hot a lot. Now the August monsoon has produced some rain and this week we've cooled down to 70-75F, daytime. Down to 50 at night. Nice. Probably warm up a bit before the Fall.
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Post by: aeronca on September 19, 2008, 06:08:42 AM
is rotella t a motorcycle oil specific oil,or will it matter? i've found a local source but am still wondering. also when switching brands of synthetic, do you need to do a flush? only asking because the few times we switched oils at work on the planes it required a flush run. thanks    eric
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Post by: fano on September 19, 2008, 06:34:22 AM
All I did is drained the old oil out, put the new filter in and filled with a new oil. Works great. I think the oil is designed specifically  for diesel engines but works great in motorcycles. :D
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Post by: aeronca on September 19, 2008, 12:30:48 PM
thanks brother fano, i'll give it a shot this week. :D
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Post by: paulie on September 19, 2008, 05:05:27 PM
Hey Aeronca, I'm a recent convert to the diesel concoction of the Rotella T, and I started a thread somewhere around here that expressed my reservations about using it... I had an opportunity to snag a couple free cases of the stuff, but I wanted to see if it was going to be OK for the Tigger.. Got a few "go for its" so I did.. I've done a couple oil changes since then, and I can report no problems thus far!  :thumbsup
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Post by: aeronca on September 20, 2008, 06:04:42 AM
thanks for the insight brother. good feed back. :D
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Post by: JetdocX on September 20, 2008, 05:05:07 PM
This is all opinion unless anyone has had an oil assay done to determine if the oil is doing what it's supposed to do.  Just sayin'.  It's the internet and all. :roll:

Aeronca, the reason a flush is because different brands of turbine oils may have incompatible chemicals/compounds which, if mixed could possibly damage rotating air seals.  Not good on a multi-million dollar engine.  Your Tiger engine does not use oil in this way.
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Post by: aeronca on September 20, 2008, 07:09:37 PM
your right, it also doesnt have ceramic seals or use air bearings between turbine and the bearing serface like in the air cycle machine on the a/c packs - with that said though, my concern was more so with the trany and clutch. i dont want a clutch failure because of the oil properties of two different oils intermixing and breaking down one another. i hear what your saying brother jetdocx, but im just playing it safe because your right - this is the internet. now - where's those pics from your drunken night of debachery and football? :D
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Post by: TigerTrax on September 21, 2008, 05:17:51 AM
Rotella works fine in Nebraska!

Some riders say Mobil 1 - 4XT  helps Tiger shift easier.

Mobil folks talk about 'shear' and oil break-down ????
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Post by: JetdocX on September 21, 2008, 04:47:36 PM
This is going to turn into the typical oil thread where everyone knows it all, never had a problem, and you should use the same oil as me because it's the best, lasts the longest, grows hair on bald heads and makes my sticker peck up. :P
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Post by: Mustang on September 21, 2008, 04:57:02 PM
Quote from: "JetdocX", grows hair on bald heads and makes my sticker peck up. :P

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512qy-btvJL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)

You need to run this in that Steamer  :ImaPoser
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Post by: JetdocX on September 21, 2008, 05:53:30 PM
This is more bester in the Steamer:

(http://greenchameleon.com/uploads/snake_oil.jpg)
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Post by: Mustang on September 21, 2008, 06:13:26 PM
What a prominent Butcher of Cottagegrove , Oregon says : (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/Jack.gif)
That just cracks me up ....
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Post by: John Stenhouse on September 22, 2008, 12:56:10 PM
So I need pure Rattlesanke oil then cos I'm deaf? Do Tiggers run welll on that?
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Post by: TigerTrax on September 22, 2008, 03:00:31 PM
A friend of mine ... who has ridden much of the world ... used to own a multi-brand dealership, including BMW,...... buys the least expensive oil he can, mixes and uses EVERY DROP regardless of brand and weight ...
and puts it in his motorcycles and automobiles when he changes oil.

As far as he is concerned.... it's a lubricant.... and they are all the same.

Go figure!

BTW:The Amsoil seems to do well in Tigger. But it has now reached $9 qt.
Guess I'll go fight the fat wimmin at WalMart and get Rotella Sync again.
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Post by: aeronca on September 22, 2008, 06:05:10 PM
thank god that the local SCHUCKS (auto part store) has it so i dont have to go to wal-mart. thanks for all the input in this thread - you guy's are the best.      eric
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Post by: skoron on October 07, 2008, 02:50:54 PM
I am going to raise the topic back to the top since Rotella T is not getting any response in the other thread.

The new Rotella T is a CJ spec oil, not the old CI plus 4 (as in the picture).  New bottle shape is a clue.

I have been told that the new CJ spec oil contains friction modifiers to help improve the viscosity and aid fuel economy in the trucks.  Bad thing it may also affect a wet clutch.

Can anyone confirm if the new Shell Rotella T CJ spec is going to be ok or did it become a taboo oil like other car based fluids?

Thanks, Skoron
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Post by: fano on October 07, 2008, 03:34:01 PM
There is one way to find out. Like I said in the other post, It does work in my dirt bike so I don't see a reason it won't work in the Tiger.
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Post by: REGULATOR on November 01, 2008, 09:24:21 PM
just on the subject...

  so if you buy a jug of AUTO synthetic oil, and you look on the back it doesn't have the energy conserving logo, in theory it shoudl be ok?

I have a jug of synth leftover that I'm thinking of using...


   I have ran rotella before in other bikes,  it really seemed to clean it out when I chenged it again later.
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