Hi fellows,
I had my gas tank off for some tinkering. When I lifted it back on to the bike, I had to nudge an oilhose that was in the way, the one running from the oilcanister below the gastank - to the rear shock absorber.
-When I moved the hose out of the way, some oil seeped out from the orange-marked area.
Exactly that marked place, not from the adjustment screw or anywhere else.
I got the feeling that the oil came from the space between the outer housing, and whatever is inside.
All parts, like the banjo and everything around surrounding that place is completely dry.
I´d say the amount was about a teaspoon.
After I dried it off, there was no more coming.
However, I have not used the bike since, so I have no idea if it will start again when I ride it.
And another thing, when I jiggle the red marked part, its loose. It´s not like it is going to come out or anything, but it feels like it is mounted in a rubber bushing or something.
Is it supposed to feel like that?
Thanks for ideas and inputs guys!
nope it is not supposed to wiggle the bladder inside the can lost i's seal and the pressure has left the bladder . it should be charged with nitrogen . thats also why the oil came out . it can be repaired...............any one that rebuilds shocks should be able to do it .
you can do it yourself also and if you want some pointers send Bruken a PM he can help you
also have a look here
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7887 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7887)
both my 98's with thaat pc of shit showa shock have done the same thing
Quote from: "Mustang"nope it is not supposed to wiggle the bladder inside the can lost i's seal and the pressure has left the bladder . it should be charged with nitrogen . thats also why the oil came out . it can be repaired...............any one that rebuilds shocks should be able to do it .
Crap....
From what I understand it is where you change your ride hight?
1. Is it possible to drive the bike without it for a while, or is it absolutely necessary?
2. Will the rear chock absorber collapse without it working?
You think it is better to try and find another one than to try and have it repaired?
Thanks man!
id get it repaired or do it yourself. theres a thread in here on how to do it. its an easy job. the chances of findin a good used onen ow are very slim. the youngest one now is 13 years old so will need rebuildin anyway.
Quote from: "rybes"id get it repaired or do it yourself. theres a thread in here on how to do it. its an easy job. the chances of findin a good used onen ow are very slim. the youngest one now is 13 years old so will need rebuildin anyway.
Thank you Rybes.
Do you know what this is part called? I tried to search, but don´t know what to search for...
heres the thread i used to rebuild mine Bruken posted it a while ago. the part youve gt a leak from comes with the shock. if its unbolted from the pipe youll loose all your oil. read through that thread nad youll get a better understandin of what it is and how it works
http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf (http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf)
Quote from: "Persson"Crap....
From what I understand it is where you change your ride hight?
it's for dampening or rebound forget which one without looking it up
Quote1. Is it possible to drive the bike without it for a while, or is it absolutely necessary?
absolutely necessary
Quote2. Will the rear chock absorber collapse without it working?
most likely as you will lose all the oil
QuoteYou think it is better to try and find another one than to try and have it repaired?
on the front of the can where the air valve is you should see a circlip that holds the bladder in
undo the can from the engine so you can hold it upright .
take the clip out and pull the bladder assembly out
degrease the aluminum cap and reseal the bladder with some good silicone sealant
replace the oil you lost ........just pour some shock or fork oil in , enough so that the can is about 1/3 full .
put the resealed bladder assembly back in and put the clip on , don't be surprised if some oil forces out around it it will be excess oil is all
pump that sucker up with about 120 psi of air pressure and you will be good to keep riding until you can get it done at a shop or replaced
I went with a new shock on mine
Quote from: "rybes"heres the thread i used to rebuild mine Bruken posted it a while ago. the part youve gt a leak from comes with the shock. if its unbolted from the pipe youll loose all your oil. read through that thread nad youll get a better understandin of what it is and how it works
http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf (http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf)
You used this manual to rebuild yours?
Well done man! I don´t understand any of it.
But from what I do understand, correctly or not, that canister holds the oil that decides the ride hight.
-And there´s no way to bypass it?
What will happen if I ride the bike without fixing this?
1. Is the oilsystem in that canister the same system as the one inside the rear shock absorber?
I mean, will the rear shock empty out all oil in both that small canister AND the rear shock, or just that small canister, an the rear shock will still be OK ?
2. What is broken here?
Is it just an O-ring, or a gasket, or is it the bladder itself that is gone?
3. Is there any other model that shares this system, where I can find a replace canister?
I just told ya how to fix it one post up go back and reread this thread :D
once you take it apart and with the info I gave you in my previous post it will be obvious what needs to be done and you will be ridin again in 15 minutes :shock:
All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.
Quote from: "Mustang"I just told ya how to fix it one post up go back and reread this thread :D
once you take it apart and with the info I gave you in my previous post it will be obvious what needs to be done and you will be ridin again in 15 minutes :shock:
Haha,
Yes I wrote that at the same time as you wrote your answer. Didn´t think I would get an answer so fast.
Mustang- You are not only full of knowledge, but fast as a ninja too! :shock:
Quote from: "BruKen"All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.
Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.
But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?
Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately
where bouts in scandanvia persson ? im in denmark and theres someone in norway if i remeber right ?
Quote from: "rybes"where bouts in scandanvia persson ? im in denmark and theres someone in norway if i remeber right ?
In Sweden unfortunately. So it seems we have Scandinavia covered, haha
Quote from: "Persson"Quote from: "BruKen"All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.
Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.
But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?
Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately
No, if the repairs are good it should feel very tight. If I was to venture a guess I'd say your oil may have either foamed or still not enough in, if the bladder has been inflated. Unfortunately if there is air in the system you have to bleed it. The proper way to do that is by dissembling the cartridge as explained in the pdf. strip it down. If you have basic mechanical skills, can read and follow instructions, you'll be surprised at how simple the oil service is. It is fiddly, like bleeding brakes, but not hard.
Quote from: "BruKen"Quote from: "Persson"Quote from: "BruKen"All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.
Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.
But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?
Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately
No, if the repairs are good it should feel very tight. If I was to venture a guess I'd say your oil may have either foamed or still not enough in, if the bladder has been inflated. Unfortunately if there is air in the system you have to bleed it. The proper way to do that is by dissembling the cartridge as explained in the pdf. strip it down. If you have basic mechanical skills, can read and follow instructions, you'll be surprised at how simple the oil service is. It is fiddly, like bleeding brakes, but not hard.
I´m sorry, I realize when I read it back, that by the last post I wrote it might appeare that I tried to fixe the problem. So have not been done.
I have not touched the bike at all yet. I do not want to tear it down before I know how to handle the problem, with running the risk of forgetting how to fit it all together again.
But it seems like I have to remove not only the little oil canister, but the whole rear suspension aswell?
Fruck!
I haven´t even done 50 km´s since I bought it, and already have 2 big issues in a catch 22 situation.
-First the leads/coils turns out to be faulty, which one is faulty can not be determined before I take the bike for a spin, wich can not be done before the suspension is together...
Anyone know if there is any other Triumph model that share the same suspension system with the Steamer?But hell, it looks good in the garage...
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
That canister is an auxiliary reservior for the rear shock. It has nothing to do with setting ride height. The adjustment on there is for dampening.
Ride height is set using the spring preload.
Here is a wealth of suspension information from a world-renowned guru. I call him the "Tire Whisperer". He set my Aprilia up at the track two weeks ago and I couldn't be happier.
http://www.feelthetrack.com/tuning_guide.htm
You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit. All shocks need to be serviced or replaced at fairly regular intervals even though this fact is by and large ignored until there is an obvious problem. ( I've read annual oil change recommendations, but this may be a bit obsessive). You wouldn't replace an engine because it needed a service, and if you had sense you'd service it before a problem from neglect developed. So to the shock and forks. They're pretty critical to your safety afterall.
Oh, and expect a significant increase in ride hight when done. Inflating the bladder does stiffen up the static sag. It's counter intuitive because that is normally achieved by winding the spring tighter. Maybe my spring has gone soft but mine raised the rear close to half an inch when I reinflated her.
Quote from: "BruKen"You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit.
My Ohlins makes the Showa Pc of shit seem like a pogo stick :D
No doubt, but your Ohlins need servicing just as often. Do you bin it after a couple years or have it serviced :roll:
I'm pleased enough with the Showa. It's no Wilbers or Ohlins but I have another couple of bikes in the garage with aftermarket shocks on. They are comparable and the Showa is fit for purpose.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/blbl.gif)
if I could get another Ohlins I would bin the showa on Tigger 3 in a heartbeat , It was the best thing I ever did for tigger 2.
It's like the difference between a tuesday afternoon (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/48839.gif) and a swedish supermodel
(http://www.wags-onlines.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/helena-svedin.jpg)
:ImaPoser :ImaPoser nice comparison
you could always use these as a matchin compliment
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af76/IM_Rybes/ohlins_forks.jpg)
Quote from: "BruKen"You may wish to buy another shock but that could become an expensive habit. All shocks need to be serviced or replaced at fairly regular intervals even though this fact is by and large ignored until there is an obvious problem. ( I've read annual oil change recommendations, but this may be a bit obsessive). You wouldn't replace an engine because it needed a service, and if you had sense you'd service it before a problem from neglect developed. So to the shock and forks. They're pretty critical to your safety afterall.
Oh, and expect a significant increase in ride hight when done. Inflating the bladder does stiffen up the static sag. It's counter intuitive because that is normally achieved by winding the spring tighter. Maybe my spring has gone soft but mine raised the rear close to half an inch when I reinflated her.
Yep, I have an Yamaha 250 yzf motocross and a KTM 350 enduromachine
as well, and it is once a year service on the suspension for both those bikes.
However, for those kind of bikes, there are workshops who gladly change oil and seals.
But when asked upon the Triumph shock, they go:
"Eh. Watt?"
Quote from: "Mustang"(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/blbl.gif)
if I could get another Ohlins I would bin the showa on Tigger 3 in a heartbeat , It was the best thing I ever did for tigger 2.
It's like the difference between a tuesday afternoon (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/48839.gif) and a swedish supermodel
(http://www.wags-onlines.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/helena-svedin.jpg)
Everything is relative. If I had the opportunity I'd still do both. Unfortunately, the missus is not so forgiving :twisted:
Been putting stones on my driveway this summer, which means the garage has been more or less locked down. (And filled with all junk that previously resided outside the garage.)
So I have not had time to tear the old Steamer down.
But as I read that some has replaced the original shock with aftermarket or ones of different brand, I´m thinking that perhaps it will be easier to replace it with something else.
I´m just about over the dwarfline in length, i.e 176 cm= 5.7 ft
So a shorter shock would not be bad if there´s one around.
Anyone know if there are rear shocks of other brands that will fit bolt on or with minor mods?
:?: :?: :?: