Every Tiger I have had and even my Adventurer has suffered failure of these mountings. As usual the dealers charge for these so I found a cure from old parts I had in my garage, but can be easily obtained from breakers and are guaranteed not to break again.
This is what you will find when your rear lamp gets wobbly.
[/img](http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/RearLampMountingFix007.jpg)
These are the parts you will need to fix it. The grommets are from any Jap bike/car mountings. The mountings sometimes come with the tube inserts which should be 6mm diameter, I made my own from some 6mm ID stainless tube. The length of the tube should be slightly less than the depth of the grommet. The fixings are 6mm stainless.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/RearLampMountingFix001.jpg)
Assemble like this.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/RearLampMountingFix003.jpg)
Next the mounting holes in the lamp backplate need to be opened up to the outer core size of the grommets, this needs to be a snug fit or the grmmets will just pull through, I used a step drill as it is easier with some tape attached to act as a depth guage.
Open up the mounting holes to 6mm on the undertray.
DON'T FORGET to put the alarm if fitted to service mode as the rear cover needs to be removed for this job!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/RearLampMountingFix004.jpg)
Drilled and mountings fitted.
I did have to make up some spacers between the lamp and undertray as the tray gusset fouled the lamp.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/RearLampMountingFix005.jpg)
Nice fix :) though not all mounting fixtures are the same. Mine has the stud plates attached to the rubber with glue :shock: after the first new one I bought failed I decided to put a self tapper with washer in from the lens side, still going strong after a couple of years :D