Ok, back in 2006 with 17k on the clock the bike failed its MOT due to head bearings, dealer renewed them. 20k later the top one is decidely dodgy, stiff bars at 5 to and 5 past, then smooth both ways...if a little tight.
So I stripped the front end off and the top bearing when turned by hand feels a bit gritty and dry..not good :cry:
Now, the bearing is a NSK 6025 DU...made in Poland, is this considered to be OE Triumph :?: have also googled this item and cant find one with DU
My reciept for the job shows item 3800031-T0301 ( taper bearing £23.56) and T3800055 (headstock bearing £20.30) plus labour of £135 plus VAT.
Once again, any thoughts...
Do it yourself. It's daunting if you've not done it before but it is straightforward. The Haynes manual covers it. That'll save the labour even if you pay full price for the bearings.
Bob, the job itself is not daunting, as I`ve done most of it, but this is the first time I have had it stripped down to a serious level :oops:
I`m more concerned that the dealer did`nt actually use OE parts, but charged for them :shock:
the oem triumph bearings are the absolute cheapest pcs. of shit there are , you can get a much better quality bearing from any supply outlet at usually half the cost or less of the triumph branded OEM's
:BangHead so who supplies the Triumph OE parts?? from what I`ve googled it could well be NSK...Ell Cheapo? cant be doin with payin top dollar and getting sh1te in return.
Give your local BSL Bearing Services Limited a call, they will give you a quality equivalent for sensible money. They are generally very helpful people.
+1
I use them for everything, alternator bearing on the car, drum bearings on the washing machine, wheel bearings for the trailer.....
But not head bearings on the 'bird. OEM Honda bearings are Special to type and conversion to taper bearings was a disaster. Caused a low speed weave I just couldn't dial out :shock:
Sin/Bob, thanks for the BSL suggestion :) I was chatting to our vehicle fitter today about the bearings and the removal of the bottom bearing(sorting it tomorrow)and he said have you tried BSL they`re just down the road and he gets all the firms bearings from there...pays to ask I suppose :oops:
Ok, BSL wanted £35 + VAT for the top bearing and did`nt stock the bottom one with the seal.
Ordered them from Triumph-Online in the end for £30, old bearing and shell removed quite nicely with aid of a slide hammer :D
How do you know if they need replaced?
Quote from: "brad1098"How do you know if they need replaced?
Use the search button and all is explained.
Get the bike on the mainstand with the front wheel clear of the ground, rotate the bars very gently and slowly lock-to-lock. If any notchiness or resistance not down to cables etc then the bearings are finished. Seems on average they only last about 15k miles. Probably due to the amount of leverage put on them by the long forks.
BB its nice to know the big H are still useing size specific bearings, they are a PITA, the cam bearings on old RS 125s were like that, normal bearing price at the time £2. Honda bearing £20. AAARRRGGG.
Quote from: "metalguru"Quote from: "brad1098"How do you know if they need replaced?
Use the search button and all is explained.
Get the bike on the mainstand with the front wheel clear of the ground, rotate the bars very gently and slowly lock-to-lock. If any notchiness or resistance not down to cables etc then the bearings are finished. Seems on average they only last about 15k miles. Probably due to the amount of leverage put on them by the long forks.
BB its nice to know the big H are still useing size specific bearings, they are a PITA, the cam bearings on old RS 125s were like that, normal bearing price at the time £2. Honda bearing £20. AAARRRGGG.
Mine actually lasted 49k, I could feel the notches and low speed filtering was difficult going over the white paint etc. The top bearing funnily wasnt too bad, but the lower Timken, well see here:
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/cockneytaff/20110808_0478.jpg)
That bearing has "Brinelled". Been sat in one position for a loooong time with some background vibration causing the rollers to "hammer" away at the outer race, which is softer, leaving an indent. You will find the same on the inner race.
A bit puzzled as that normally takes hundreds if not thousands of hours in a stationary position, riding in a straight line wouldn't do it, and there has to be some vibration. Carrying it around strapped in the back of a truck would do it but would have taken thousands of miles. The only other scenario I can think of is being parked up for a long period close to some large reciprocating machinery :icon_scratch
The process is accelerated if the taper isn't adjusted properly and there's a bit of play. I agree though, it's hard to imagine riding in a straight line enough to give the reqd constant pounding on one spot.
Yep, dunno guys, a lot of my mileage was motorway, but then a lot wasnt, and I didnt really notice a problem until about 45k. Of all those marks on the race, only 2 could be detected by touch.
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"That bearing has "Brinelled". Been sat in one position for a loooong time with some background vibration causing the rollers to "hammer" away at the outer race, which is softer, leaving an indent. You will find the same on the inner race.
A bit puzzled as that normally takes hundreds if not thousands of hours in a stationary position, riding in a straight line wouldn't do it, and there has to be some vibration. Carrying it around strapped in the back of a truck would do it but would have taken thousands of miles. The only other scenario I can think of is being parked up for a long period close to some large reciprocating machinery :icon_scratch
I dont even own the bike anymore, but youve got me thinking now. What about vibration caused by the bike itself?
I did run it at fairly high RPM for long periods, although I never thought it that buzzy, maybe it was. Maybe the PO who fitted the engine bars didnt torque the engine bolts in the correct sequence etc.
Maybe Im not that perceptible to vibes, my current bike the BM GT is criticised for being vibey , I find it smooth as silk, perhaps my body has been wrecked over the years from riding vibey old dogs :lol:
tigger 2 looked the same way when I changed em at 55k miles,
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1667.jpg)
I think it's a combination of front brake , heavy bike , shit OEM bearings.
Question :when do people generally change the head bearing ?
Answer: when they feel notchy !
that photo is very typical of Triumph headstock bearings .
Same pattern also as my 'bird. She gets about 25k out of a set.
Mine has 32k on it and still tickity boo(famous last words) and while it's seen plenty of wet in it's life,it's never seen a winters day either,in the Yahoo tiger days I bought a set of laser spanners off a guy in the States so they've always been well ajusted.
The Steamer was barely noticeable at 86k miles but I did them anyway. I don't know if they had ever been done previously but given they state of other maintenance I would doubt it :roll:
Waiting the bearings form Triumph-online, so renewed the fork oil today. Drained them saturday and left em overnight to fully drain, checked the level with the forks fully compressed and it was around the 125mm mark, im now getting confused :oops:
On refilling the Haynes manual reckons 680cc ish and 119mm clearance... I managed to get around 605 cc in for 119mm... all properly pumped to drain etc..
Oh, and I used a cut down syringe for filling printer cartidges to get the desired level..gotta be safe;)