I have tried to search for this topic but to no avail so....My Girly is great at speed but seems to develop a sort of wandering feel at slow speeds and on roundabouts etc.
I have new Trail Attacks and wondered if they may be the problem.
My other bike is a HD Dyna with a low centre of gravity and feels very stable and planted on the road so is it just me?
Any advice welcomed.
:?
I had a slow speed weave / vagueness with my Blackbird when I did the taper head bearing upgrade. I changed tyres, wheel bearings and played around with all sorts of other stuff none of which worked. Eventually I reverted back to the bearings Mr Honda designed and the problem went away. I subsequently learned, after reading some race setup info on the web, that taper heads are notoriously difficult to set up. So I didn't feel to bad. So, in short, I'd take a look at your head bearing settings before you go wasting time and money. :D
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"I had a slow speed weave / vagueness with my Blackbird when I did the taper head bearing upgrade. I changed tyres, wheel bearings and played around with all sorts of other stuff none of which worked. Eventually I reverted back to the bearings Mr Honda designed and the problem went away. I subsequently learned, after reading some race setup info on the web, that taper heads are notoriously difficult to set up. So I didn't feel to bad. So, in short, I'd take a look at your head bearing settings before you go wasting time and money. :D
Thanks Bob.
I'm not too experienced in that area.
I have a tendency of being somewhat heavy handed with nuts and bolts etc.
I do quite a bit of stuff myself but I usually leave the fine tuning to those in the know.
Any hints and tips here?
I have also read some threads on tyre pressures / condition and fork height which may or may not point me in the right direction.
My tyres are brand new and not worn in at all and a few pounds low (about 3psi) but I can't see that being too problematic.
Also, the forks are at the top of the top yoke and I've read that they should be 10 - 15mm down for better handling.
Any thoughts?
Having had the same issues on my Tiger I would agree with BB and have a look at your head bearings.
With the front of the bike off the ground try turning the bars very gently side to side, on mine it was just noticeable at the straight ahead position that there was a notch, but only just perceptible, as yours it was amplified at slower speeds and going over white lines etc.
It was one of the few jobs I decided to get the dealer to do, more to do with time constraints than anything else.
Quote from: "Timbox2"Having had the same issues on my Tiger I would agree with BB and have a look at your head bearings.
With the front of the bike off the ground try turning the bars very gently side to side, on mine it was just noticeable at the straight ahead position that there was a notch, but only just perceptible, as yours it was amplified at slower speeds and going over white lines etc.
It was one of the few jobs I decided to get the dealer to do, more to do with time constraints than anything else.
Just been out and checked the steering.
Is it just mine or do all Tigers still have both wheels on the ground even when it's on the C/S??
Anyway, very noticeable notch at 12 oclock.
Self centering steering syndrone.
I think you guys have cracked it for me.
Phone call to Webbs is on the cards for tomorrow!!
+1 on what the others are saying as after tyre pressures then next place to look. Have had issues with all three Tigers I have owned and had to replace the head bearings on all, (but I am Fussy)!
Although written for steamers the theory is the same,
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611)
If you need more tech info can email the manual page(s).
Quote from: "metalguru"+1 on what the others are saying as after tyre pressures then next place to look. Have had issues with all three Tigers I have owned and had to replace the head bearings on all, (but I am Fussy)!
Although written for steamers the theory is the same,
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611)
If you need more tech info can email the manual page(s).
Thanks for the link and the input.
Being a lazy b#####d and much preferring to ride than to spanner I'll be calling my local dealer tomorrow and hoping the second call isn't to my mortgage company!!
:shock:
Get the Stealer to change the fork oil while they are there as they have to strip out the front end anyway. :idea:
Quote from: "metalguru"Get the Stealer to change the fork oil while they are there as they have to strip out the front end anyway. :idea:
Thought about that.
Any recommendations or just standard stuff?
Dangerous ground here........If you like the ride then stick to standard grade oil........BUT you could open the floodgates of experiences with different grades, springs, emulators, etc.
Quote from: "DeuceBG"Quote from: "metalguru"+1 on what the others are saying as after tyre pressures then next place to look. Have had issues with all three Tigers I have owned and had to replace the head bearings on all, (but I am Fussy)!
Although written for steamers the theory is the same,
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4611)
If you need more tech info can email the manual page(s).
Thanks for the link and the input.
Being a lazy b#####d and much preferring to ride than to spanner I'll be calling my local dealer tomorrow and hoping the second call isn't to my mortgage company!!
:shock:
Timbox will be along no doubt,the lazy bugger :D paid to have his done at a dealer and got e'm done for peanuts so maybe not so daft after all.
And sometimes it pays!!,we had a GSXR750 in on thursday for a service,it took 3 hours thurs afternoon and 5 on friday to dig a jammed HT cap out of the cam box well,it had never had the plug changed on the one cylinder depite him having had it serviced else were :twisted:,and of course only wanted to pay for a service!!
Quote from: "metalguru"Dangerous ground here........If you like the ride then stick to standard grade oil........BUT you could open the floodgates of experiences with different grades, springs, emulators, etc.
Similar to HD territory then.
Standard will do for me I guess although I've yet to ride her much.
I'm planning to use her for work when it gets a bit less frosty and grim.
My last one rode great but it was brand new back in 2004.
This one feels smooth and grunty and sounds really well since I fitted the Race Can (no engine management light this time either which I thought strange).
I'll stick with stock as all my riding will be on road.
Although Lincolnshire's roads are practically dirt tracks anyway these days!! :(
Just done my head bearings...fork oil...and a few other bits while the tank was off http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10803 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10803) check out the the 2006 prices :( then check bearing prices at Triumph online :)
Quote from: "PeteH"Just done my head bearings...fork oil...and a few other bits while the tank was off http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10803 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10803) check out the the 2006 prices :( then check bearing prices at Triumph online :)
Just had a quote from my local Triumph dealer:
Supply / fit new head bearings top and bottom.
Replace fork oil.
Re-map ECU to suit new can I fitted last week.
Loan bike.
£180 all in.
Not too bad I reckon.
Quote from: "DeuceBG"Just had a quote from my local Triumph dealer:
Supply / fit new head bearings top and bottom.
Replace fork oil.
Re-map ECU to suit new can I fitted last week.
Loan bike.
£180 all in.
Not too bad I reckon.
Sounds good to me, think I was ripped off :( just make sure they take your tank off or at the very least protect it where the spanners will be working....just like my dealer did`nt :x
Quote from: "DeuceBG"Quote from: "Timbox2"Is it just mine or do all Tigers still have both wheels on the ground even when it's on the C/S??
My rear wheel clears the ground by quite a way. Check your centre stand mounts.
Quote from: "ChazzyB"Quote from: "DeuceBG"Quote from: "Timbox2"Is it just mine or do all Tigers still have both wheels on the ground even when it's on the C/S??
My rear wheel clears the ground by quite a way. Check your centre stand mounts.
Already done that and replaced them as they looked a little bent.
What flagged that up originally was the fact that the bike leans to the right when on the C/S but I've since read posts where others are the same.
Bit of an oddity that!!
Everything seems to be straight and happy down there now but I have to but at least an inch or timber underneath to get any real ground clearence.
Quote from: "DeuceBG"Quote from: "ChazzyB"Quote from: "DeuceBG"Quote from: "Timbox2"Is it just mine or do all Tigers still have both wheels on the ground even when it's on the C/S??
My rear wheel clears the ground by quite a way. Check your centre stand mounts.
Already done that and replaced them as they looked a little bent.
What flagged that up originally was the fact that the bike leans to the right when on the C/S but I've since read posts where others are the same.
Bit of an oddity that!!
Everything seems to be straight and happy down there now but I have to but at least an inch or timber underneath to get any real ground clearence.
Could be the bike has been lowered in the past and the centre stand has been cut down to suit, does it lean over a lot on the side stand?
Overall length of mine on the left side is 14 1/4".
Or maybe someone has fitted a C/S from a road Triumph of the same era?
As an 06 stock bike, my rear wheel cleared by about an inch on the cs. I replaced my front forks with revamped but possibly older forks and now the rear drags. I can still turn it but it takes a bit of effort. For me it's the front forks sitting a bit higher that drops the rear.
X.
Quote from: "XJC"As an 06 stock bike, my rear wheel cleared by about an inch on the cs. I replaced my front forks with revamped but possibly older forks and now the rear drags. I can still turn it but it takes a bit of effort. For me it's the front forks sitting a bit higher that drops the rear.
X.
Maybe it's because the forks are level with the top yoke and not 10 - 15mm down?
QuoteMaybe it's because the forks are level with the top yoke and not 10 - 15mm down?
That would do it.
Mine are the standard 10-15mm so I assume longer travel causing the dragging rear.
Quote from: "XJC"Maybe it's because the forks are level with the top yoke and not 10 - 15mm down?
That would do it.
Mine are the standard 10-15mm so I assume longer travel causing the dragging rear.
I might ask them to put them back to stock when it goes in at the weekend.
you do realize that flush with the yoke top is the stock factory setting ................pulled up 10-15mm is what most of us have learned works better for overall handling in the twistys .
as far as the wheels not coming off the ground on the centerstand , you will find that the stops are bent on the factory centerstand which is a POS. very common problem on the Girly bikes .
try the search button .lots of info about it :shock: somewhere in the search you should find the cure for the centerstand blues too :D
I didn't realise that, thanks.
Will check for bent stops.
X.
Re the forks wooooo hang on boys,10/15mm on a pre 04 bike is a lot,I found over the 8/10mm setting the bike had a tendency to tuck when diving into a corner but each to his own.
Go doing that on a post 05 with a steeper head angle blimey :shock: ,thats going to get interesting at sometime,I've never considered it practical to put a 17" on a post 04 bike purely because of the steepened head angle,but if anyone has!! I'm all ears :D
Quote from: "Mustang"you do realize that flush with the yoke top is the stock factory setting ................ :D
No I didn't but I do now...thanks.
If that's the case then that's where they'll stay.
I'm not fussed about turning it into a more sporty animal, I just want powerful reliability with confident handling which thanks (I hope) to the knackered head bearings, it doesn't yet have.
By Saturday afternoon I'm hoping all will be well.
Nipped out to the garage to check.
Forks set to 5mm above the yoke.
CS stops - bent.
Once again, the knowledge shared on this forum helps out this Philistine.
Thanks,
X.
Quote from: "XJC"Nipped out to the garage to check.
Forks set to 5mm above the yoke.
CS stops - bent.
Once again, the knowledge shared on this forum helps out this Philistine.
Thanks,
X.
Ah, a man from Philly in South Ayrshire :lol:
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Quote from: "XJC"Nipped out to the garage to check.
Forks set to 5mm above the yoke.
CS stops - bent.
Once again, the knowledge shared on this forum helps out this Philistine.
Thanks,
X.
Ah, a man from Philly in South Ayrshire :lol:
:D Aye, and the population's rising exponentially.
X.
Took her in last Saturday and they worked on her from about 0930 til 1300.
They replaced the steering head bearings, renewed the fork oil and remapped the ECU to suit my sport can.
Meanwhile, I took the brand new XTZ1200 Super Tenere loaner for a 150 mile joyride.
Picked her up all done and dusted and the bill was a few pence over £179 all in.
I even had a "Customer Satisfaction" call the following week.
Webbs of Lincoln have really got it right IMO.