Hi All
After a shakedown run on sunday, my rear caliper was found to be binding, leading to rear brake overhaul time. Pads, seals etc ordered, and rear disc found to be well worn. New Kagizume arrived from sandy Bike spares, BUT
Disc bolts not releasing.
Bearing in mind both disc and bolts are to be replaced, any suggestions on removing bolts?
I suspect that heat will be required to overcome blue loctite, but should I risk a air hammer on them, even a piddly litle Aldi one?
Suggestions / Experiences appreciated ???
yeah heats a good idea. if the bolt hole gets to round for an allen key, you can either drill or grind the bolt head off. only grind it tho if ya replacin the disc. only take the top of the bolt off too as ya gunna need summink to get some kinda grip onto or a stud remover to get the bolt out. if that goes wrong, next step would be drill it and try an easy out and if that dont work its new thread time. it at this point you wonder jus how central that hole you drilled is :lol:
Locktite releases on heat. That's all you need as the bolts are ss.....and a good Allen key. Nothing shittier than a cheap Allen key undersized and soft to ruin your day. Measure the key with a vernier, the principle is to grip the flats not the corners of the hex bolt. Then it won't round off.
Hairdryer, or heat gun if you have one, less chance of doing damage and more controllable.
As said before, heat and a quality key. If you do end up rounding it off, before resorting to a drill try hammering a torx bit into it (making sure you support the wheel so you can`t damage the underside) . Once the bit is well seated attach an impact driver. I love th eimpact driver. It has got me out of so many `no hoper` situations.
You need 400 deg F for locktite blue to release so a heat gun would work. A quick short sharp blast of butane direct to the bolt will be more effective in localizing the heat imo, 5 seconds should do.
Thanks for the input Guys, disc off, with heat mainly, and a good fitting hex. Aldi impact wrench pathetic with Wolf 25litre tank.
Anyhoo 22Nm on the bolts? , seems very little, even with Loctite 262.
Yep! 22 Nm. Which is just over 16 lb/ft (16.22...)
Trust the force! :lol:
Quote from: "MIMbox"Thanks for the input Guys, disc off, with heat mainly, and a good fitting hex. Aldi impact wrench pathetic with Wolf 25litre tank.
Anyhoo 22Nm on the bolts? , seems very little, even with Loctite 262.
OK, I'll jump in. Tired of having to deal with seized bolts, I now use anti-seize on everything. That includes disk bolts, caliper mount bolts and axles threads. Even if thread lock is recommended I use antiseize. I have checked the torque on caliper and disk bolts after riding a few thousand. Fine. A smart thing to do...probably not? But it has worked so far. Any thoughts on the matter?
Quote from: "97tiger885"OK, I'll jump in. Tired of having to deal with seized bolts, I now use anti-seize on everything. That includes disk bolts, caliper mount bolts and axles threads. Even if thread lock is recommended I use antiseize. I have checked the torque on caliper and disk bolts after riding a few thousand. Fine. A smart thing to do...probably not? But it has worked so far. Any thoughts on the matter?
im with you. i put copper slip on every nut n bolt. i think manufacturers put thread lock bolts to cover thereselves. when you have people like us, we dont mind goin around every so often checkin bolts n are usually better at maintainin our bikes than the usual, "buy it, wash it and put petrol in it but get the dealer to fix it brigade".
No I disagree most emphatically. The rotor disc bolts do not need excessive torque, those bolts are brittle high tensile SS for a reason. The rotors are designed to dissipate heat. This leads to a lot of expansion and contraction. Throw in oodles of fine vibration and the fact the rotary direction of the wheel induces left hand rotation at the bolt axis and you begin to understand why. Still don't? when the bolt catches on something you will.
I never used to use locktite till I started flying RC helicopters and watched them shred themselves on my first flights as bolts loosened in a single flight from harmonics and vibration..... that's tight to out in under 8 minutes.
what bruce said
I've had bikes that needed lock washers, lock nuts and loc-tite and it still spit nuts and bolts off .
ever have a sidecar lose two out of four mounting bolts :?:
exciting to say the least :shock:
Rear calliper bolt fell out, nuff said.
Interesting discussion on the copper grease though. Some years ago I had to run an investigation into 1 inch UNF bolt failures on our T93 radar head. Basically, the head was in danger of ieaving the chassis. Turns out a well-meaning technician had used copper grease and dry torque settings when installing the bolts resulting in overstretch and early failure. Couldn't be too hard on the lad because I'd probably have done the same in his place. :?
t93 radar head ? wheres that on a tiger ? :lol:
Quote from: "BruKen"No I disagree most emphatically. The rotor disc bolts do not need excessive torque, those bolts are brittle high tensile SS for a reason. The rotors are designed to dissipate heat. This leads to a lot of expansion and contraction. Throw in oodles of fine vibration and the fact the rotary direction of the wheel induces left hand rotation at the bolt axis and you begin to understand why. Still don't? when the bolt catches on something you will.
Thanks for the input. No doubt locktite is necessary in some applications...your RC helicopters, Mustang's sidecar mounts,... Experience has shown you where some of those places are. The issue for me is where it is necessary on my Tiger. Are factory recommendations due to experience or based on a desire to minimize liability costs? I have no desire to die or suffer injury but neither do I wish to constantly deal with the frustration, time and cost of seized nuts and bolts. It is an issue of risk versus convenience. And there are many parts to the risk: 1. How more likely is the bolt or nut to fail without locktite?; 2. What are the conditions under which it is likely to fail?; 3. How often do I ride in those conditions?; 4. Given failure, how bad is the consequence of the failure likely to be?; and 5. How likely am I to check nuts and bolts?. Your experience and understanding is better than mine here. I will have to do some more thinking on the matter.
i put copper slip on my disc bolts and ive done around 8000 miles with no signs of any problems so far.
Just about everything you read on a forum and even the manuals is based on somebody's opinion. Generally one hopes that opinion is based on some experience and skill/training. I have never had a disc bolt come out on me either. So that's at least 2 people on opposite sides of the debate with positive results. In the end, if you leave the beaten path because its easier, then pay your money and take your chances.
You know, some cars these days are glued together, some planes too. I know of one aircraft mechanic who on restoring an old gsxr glued a broken sub frame back on. I'm sure he knows what he's doing, but I just can't get myself to give him my approbation on it either.