has anybody done one ? if so is it a git of a job or fairly simple . ive played with the search but cant find anything.
cheers in advance
chad :D
Before diving in, are you absolutely sure it's the seal leaking? That's a really cruddy area behind the sprocket cover. Just tryin' to save you some work.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Before diving in, are you absolutely sure it's the seal leaking? That's a really cruddy area behind the sprocket cover. Just tryin' to save you some work.
Yeah! Could be an over enthusiastic chain luber.
In all the years of trawling these forums I've never heard of one leaking and never seen a "how to" thread replacing it.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Before diving in, are you absolutely sure it's the seal leaking? That's a really cruddy area behind the sprocket cover. Just tryin' to save you some work.
As yet not sure , I've got to pop off the sprocket , at some point she's had a chain break that's done some damage to the area , it looks like a good job off repairing its been done its been tig welded . So I'm wondering if the heat has done the seal over time .
Are you saying the case has been welded or just the sprocket cover? If it's the gearbox case then there's no way to do that successfully on the bike. The oil gets into the alloy which prevents the weld forming properly. It takes some major cleaning inside and out to get a good, non-porus weld. It's a long time since I did one, but it took a hot solvent bath and an aircraft qualified welder to get it done. What I'm saying is the seal was probably removed before welding.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Before diving in, are you absolutely sure it's the seal leaking? That's a really cruddy area behind the sprocket cover.
Agree...chain lube collects all around the cover ...engine heats up lube which then drips when you park up, hope its the cause.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Are you saying the case has been welded or just the sprocket cover? If it's the gearbox case then there's no way to do that successfully on the bike. The oil gets into the alloy which prevents the weld forming properly. It takes some major cleaning inside and out to get a good, non-porus weld. It's a long time since I did one, but it took a hot solvent bath and an aircraft qualified welder to get it done. What I'm saying is the seal was probably removed before welding.
im not quite sure till i get it off , im a bit restricted at the mo due to a back opp but . a mate is popping round today today to reposition her in the garage so i can plonk myself in a seat and pull the cover and front sprocket off.
ill most likely have a go tomorrow and then post up some pics of what i find :D thanks so far :D
[/quote]im not quite sure till i get it off , im a bit restricted at the mo due to a back opp but . a mate is popping round today today to reposition her in the garage so i can plonk myself in a seat and pull the cover and front sprocket off.[/quote]
Bad back?.. best get him to take the sprocket off for you as it might take some shifting.
Quote from: "PeteH"
im not quite sure till i get it off , im a bit restricted at the mo due to a back opp but . a mate is popping round today today to reposition her in the garage so i can plonk myself in a seat and pull the cover and front sprocket off.[/quote]
Bad back?.. best get him to take the sprocket off for you as it might take some shifting.[/quote]my mate pete is not to be trusted with a spanner :shock:
not a problem mate , ive a selection of Airtools and a decent sized compressor so it makes it easy :D its two weeks since the opp so ive a reasonable amount of movement just got to not be silly :wink:
Quote from: "Chad"ive a selection of Airtools and a decent sized compressor so it makes it easy :D its two weeks since the opp so ive a reasonable amount of movement just got to not be silly :wink:
Have you had the sprocket off before? if not keep him handy...put the bike in 1st and have him hold the brakes on...not fun catching an errant Girly from the comfort of a chair :wink:
:lol: :lol: i once had that experience with my old africa twin :lol:
Neighbour came to my rescue says he never realised there were that many swear words :lol:
thank mate :)
i'm two minutes away if you need help :5moped
Quote from: "vince"i'm two minutes away if you need help :5moped
Cheers for that Vince i shall bear it in mind , i didnt get out there today decided just to rest up today and over the weekend then tackle it on monday :thumbsup
then we'll see whats what :D
Good luck Chad. Hoping it's chain lube.
nice to meet you today Vince :thumbsup
thanks for the manual and by the way your tiger is a peach mate :headbang
my pleasure twas nothing :occasion14
yours looks awesome with that pipe next time i want to hear it :lol:
my pleasure twas nothing :occasion14
yours looks awesome with that pipe next time i want to hear it :lol:
well this afternoon i settled myself in the garage and found the leak . its not the output shaft seal , though for future reference thats an easy pop out and re-install job :D
bad news is i would say that the welding repair to the casing has caused a slight warp to the machined faces causing the leak , there is evidence of instant gasket there but this seems to ave failed.. this leak is very minor but will bug the shit out of me , so it looks like its going to be an engine out job :BangHead
a couple of phone pics you cant really see it from the pics but its only leaking to the left of the machined face up to the corner
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm249/KTM_dude/a4ea3f49.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm249/KTM_dude/9f3dc79f.jpg)
First off, that's not a big repair so the distortion thing is very unlikely, and the engine didn't need stripping to do that - I misunderstood from your description what had been done.
From the goo it does look like it's been apart at some time though so you have to ask your self:
1. Do I have the tools and skill to do this strip and rebuild?
2. Does the leak really justify the work involved?
3. Is there anything I can do to stop or reduce the leak without stripping? (plastic metal etc... I have an oil leak stop stick somewhere, if I can find it I'll let you know what it's called)
4. What is the consequesnce of not doing it ? (constant drip - yes, catastrophic failure - very very unlikely... etc)
Your call :D
JB WELD it even fixes gas tank leaks permanently ........and it will repair holes in cases too ! just need to clean and prep the surface .
gas and oil don't bother it if you let it cure for a couple days :wink:
^^^^
What he said, even fixed the block on the Range Rover after I put a hydraulic tappet through it................don't ask :roll:
Quote from: "Mustang"JB WELD it even fixes gas tank leaks permanently ........and it will repair holes in cases too ! just need to clean and prep the surface .
gas and oil don't bother it if you let it cure for a couple days :wink:
sounds like a plan , till i feel like stripping it out as i said its such a small leak that will work fine :D
well i got me some JB weld always handy to have :D
but i figured as this is such a slight leak ive used some locktight instant gasket first i cleaned the whole area up gave it a good douse down with brake cleaner , blew it out with the compressor wiped off and left to dry.
i then applied some along the joint let that set and then another coat 10mm either side of the seem.
and its worked a treat dry as a bone even up to running temp :D
next up is chains and sprockets 19tooth going in the front too , so any advise for the best chains to use on these beastys or D.I.D X-rings the way to go ? :D
DID gold heavy duty on mine, lubed with teflon dry spray(Weldite TFT) and so far had 9000 miles with NO adjustment needed, riding like a hooligan when able.
Standard D.I.D gold here...more than enough for a Tigger, depends how much you want to spend realy. I use WURTH dry lube too :D
Quote from: "metalguru"DID gold heavy duty on mine, lubed with teflon dry spray and so far had 9000 miles with NO adjustment needed, riding like a hooligan when able.
nice one triumph online seem to have very fair prices , so ive ordered there
its quite possible the Petticoat Government will kill me , but in my trial i shall use getting the bike ready for when im fit to ride again as my excuse to avoid the firing squad :lol: :lol: :lol:
I concur.. I used JB weld on a cracked oil pan in my Audi. The local welding shop could not fix it due to the type of aluminum. I just cleaned it up and did a coat inside and out and no problems ever since (3 years prolly 100K miles). I have heard of people using it to fix radiators damaged while 4 wheeling on the Rubicon trail. I love the stuff!
Chain and sprockets fitted today , rear brake caliper stripped cleaned and re-assembled all working sweetly :D
decided to pull the front wheel out and take off the discs because i had a strange pulsing at slow speed.
these were new discs fitted by the previous owner and as i suspected the old pads were left in , so ive pulled the discs off and cleaned the seating area and the front callipers will receive the same loving attention as the rear :D
she should be even sweater when im fit to ride :D :friday
i noticed some play in the head races , so adjusted them up only to find them then notchy as a hell :?
so a new set of All balls bearings arrived in the post yesterday :D
here's what the old ones looked like
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm249/KTM_dude/8c1a7d62.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm249/KTM_dude/9a4a3105.jpg)
its the first time ive seen this style of bearing in a head race :? it kind of foxed me for a moment , i was thinking it was some sort of bodge till i checked the work shop manual :lol: :lol:
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm249/KTM_dude/fa192385.jpg)
think its time i figure out a sump guard for her and some Heidenau K60 Scouts
:D