I've been trying to install the drivers to run the usb cable for Tune ECU. Came with a disk loaded with one for VWs but it can't find the device Van com or something like thatIs there an idiot guide to setting this stuff up. Not the most computer savvy person when it comes to anything but dos stuff. Just want to be able to see what map m bike has since it gets worse mileage then 2 of my cars ( right now 20mpg with my normal commute). Never had a cel on since I've owned it. Have tired resetting the computer by starting cold and letting sit but nothing
Please help. Might as well drive one of the Jags to work. They're faster, warmer, safer and get better mileage! :)
From memory you don't install the drivers that come on the disk with the cable but use the driver from the Tune ECU website.
:qgaraduate Benebob, start here: http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8852
NKL's right you need the TuneECU drivers, but you also need to do a whole lot of reading before you go too deep. It's not that hard, and if you keep to a few simple rules, you can't do any damage. But there are things that can go badly wrong if you don't so, as I said, read on.... :thumbsup
Oh, and you'll probably find this dissapearing off to the Girly Forum when Mustang finds it... :XXcomputer
(I've seen it and your right it belongs in the Girly forum ...................so off we go to Girly land..........mustang)
Not sure why you would move it to the Girly forum as it pertains to every tiger out there sans the exploder but oh well. Yes I read that thread and no it doesn't makes sense to me. I have no problems working with far more complicated systems then what appears to be atari based but I still need an idiots guide to understanding it. What do I need to download? There doesn't appear to be any drivers at the tune ecu site aside from the actual maps.
Quote from: benebob on December 12, 2012, 10:51:17 PM
Not sure why you would move it to the Girly forum as it pertains to every tiger out there sans the exploder but oh well.
Did you miss the fact that every Tiger that is pre '99 is carb fed and hence has no ECU?
Yeah, I've only seen one in my life so I do tend to forget about the 1st gens. :)
I have a yearning for a steamer but I'm afraid of Carbs
I'd much rather have carbs then an early fuel injection system like the girlies have. My TVR has an early bosch mechanical fuel injection system as well that I cannot stand. Carbs are easy so long as you use the bike. Biggest problem with carbs is on bikes that get left to rot in the winter. I've never had a bike that was as needy as this Girly. Hell my 3 british cars are less needy.
Anyways anybody know what I need to install and how to do it. The cable is too happy with a driver it found on the system and won't let me download anything to change it. Is it a bad cable or what. A little help please.
OK Bene, The link to the driver took about 30 secs to find so maybe it was well hidden. Go here and click on the link for your operating system.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
If you have Windows XP or later the executable file should do the driver install for you, but I'm not making any promises, I haven't needed to do this for a very long time.
Once you've got it working you need to PM MetalGuru for advice as he uses TECU much more than I do, I have Tuneboy which I bought long before TECU was available.
20mpg is rubbish, I get 45mpg with most of my maps, 42 at the very worst, ragging it everywhere with a 102bhp-at-the-wheel map.
MAke sure you have a strong battery well charged or else you'll have difficulties if you do any more than read the map. I'm not convinced it's the map alone to blame but you have to start somewhere. Unless it's corrupt. But then it usually runs rough as well. A good indicator of a corrupt map is if TECU can't identify the map in the ECU or if it can't download it (you should downlaod your original map and save it somewhere before you tinker, likewise, take some screenshots of your settings so you can refer back to them).
Let us know how you get on....
And if you don't have a light switch take the fuse out.
Quote from: NKL on December 13, 2012, 04:43:50 PM
And if you don't have a light switch take the fuse out.
To take load off the battery. In case you were wondering.....
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 13, 2012, 11:31:22 AM
OK Bene, The link to the driver took about 30 secs to find so maybe it was well hidden. Go here and click on the link for your operating system.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
If you have Windows XP or later the executable file should do the driver install for you, but I'm not making any promises, I haven't needed to do this for a very long time.
Once you've got it working you need to PM MetalGuru for advice as he uses TECU much more than I do, I have Tuneboy which I bought long before TECU was available.
20mpg is rubbish, I get 45mpg with most of my maps, 42 at the very worst, ragging it everywhere with a 102bhp-at-the-wheel map.
MAke sure you have a strong battery well charged or else you'll have difficulties if you do any more than read the map. I'm not convinced it's the map alone to blame but you have to start somewhere. Unless it's corrupt. But then it usually runs rough as well. A good indicator of a corrupt map is if TECU can't identify the map in the ECU or if it can't download it (you should downlaod your original map and save it somewhere before you tinker, likewise, take some screenshots of your settings so you can refer back to them).
Let us know how you get on....
That doesn't load, I can download it but the computer using xp tells me that it has a better driver than the driver I want to choose and won't let me manually change. The driver the computer has isn't recognized by the Tune ECU software.
Yes 20mpg is pathetic. My last bike on the same commute netted around 70mpg but that was an ancient Honda CB175 so there is a slight difference in bikes. Granted my commute is 2 miles to work 1.5 to the gym after work then 2 miles home (usually interupted by a groccery store stop on the way home. Temps are now in the 20s going to work and 40s going home but I'd at least expect mpg in the 30s. Battery goes on a tender every week so it doesn't loose a ton during the commute. Gotta start somewhere is right. Over the summer when I had more places to go I'd get around 40mpg again, mostly that commute with some longer trips thrown in. Plus I don't know whwat map the previous owner has on there as it does have a TOR exhaust on it. Biggest problem I have aside from the mileage is the revs don't like drop down when you get off the gas and wanted to narrow things down before I accumlated everything for my 24k service.
Sometime the operating system of the computer needs a little directional coaching to use the correct driver. With your USB adapter in the USB port, open "Device Manager" and scroll to index marked "Ports". Left click on the index marker next to "Ports" and you should see the USB cable adapter listed in a drop down (i.e. USB serial port adapter). LEFT click to highlight your adapter, then RIGHT click on the cable adapter and scroll to "Properties", left click to open the properties submenu. One of the tabs of this submenu is listed "Driver", a left click on the tab will allow a view of your options. One of the options is to "Update Driver" of which you can manual control to tell your operating system where to look for the driver you wish to use. It is beneficial to save the downloaded driver to your desktop so it is easier to locate it when performing this action.
But what if this doesn't work? Some hardware manufacturers require the drivers installed first, then install the hardware (to where the "automatic found device driver function blah , blah" works just fine). If you did install the driver after install the device, simply uninstall the hardware (hardware remove) and then re-install by connecting the device for auto-discovery. The automatic function of XP should find the correct driver this time, automatically. How do you know if it did? Simply go through the steps outlined above with device manager to view which one was installed.
Quote from: benebob on December 14, 2012, 01:26:53 AM
Granted my commute is 2 miles to work 1.5 to the gym after work then 2 miles home (usually interupted by a groccery store stop on the way home. Temps are now in the 20s going to work and 40s going home but I'd at least expect mpg in the 30s.
TBH you're not doing the bike any favours going such short distances in cold weather (I assume your temperatures are Fahrenheit) as it's not going to get anywhere near normal temperature and the rich mixture is going to screw up any mpg calculations you make as well as washing oil off the bores, causing acids from incomplete combustion etc.
Perhaps not feasible but if I was in your position I'd be looking for a lightweight to do the commuting (a ratty CB175 might fill the bill). Or even get a pushbike then you could forget the gym.... :thumbsup
Sorry for derailing the the thread boys,but if you have a CB175 in any condition it's worth serious money,e'r better make that a CD175 as well,commute on one blimey no :doubt
T
Quote from: iansoady on December 14, 2012, 12:33:07 PM
Quote from: benebob on December 14, 2012, 01:26:53 AM
Granted my commute is 2 miles to work 1.5 to the gym after work then 2 miles home (usually interupted by a groccery store stop on the way home. Temps are now in the 20s going to work and 40s going home but I'd at least expect mpg in the 30s.
TBH you're not doing the bike any favours going such short distances in cold weather (I assume your temperatures are Fahrenheit) as it's not going to get anywhere near normal temperature and the rich mixture is going to screw up any mpg calculations you make as well as washing oil off the bores, causing acids from incomplete combustion etc.
Perhaps not feasible but if I was in your position I'd be looking for a lightweight to do the commuting (a ratty CB175 might fill the bill). Or even get a pushbike then you could forget the gym.... :thumbsup
I've been doing the commute for 8 years. A pushbike isn't an option as it is dark when I go to work and the road is not safe in daylight to right a bicycle. That ratty cb175 I sold paid for a Tiger and then some. Have another in the garage I'm building into a salt flats bike but the reality is I got tired of cable driven drum brakes in traffic.
It's much cheaper to worry about 3 cylinders then making that commute in one of the Jags. They give downright scary mileage in normal conditions.
As I said, when you manually try to update it, the comuter tells you it found nothing better. The driver it has on it is a later version seems to be 2.8 not 2.0 and isn't compatable with TuneECU or doesn't appear to be. Had some IT guys take a look and they can't figure it out either.
Have tried both ways now on installing the apple before the cart and after.
Quote from: Stitch on December 14, 2012, 02:22:03 AM
Sometime the operating system of the computer needs a little directional coaching to use the correct driver. With your USB adapter in the USB port, open "Device Manager" and scroll to index marked "Ports". Left click on the index marker next to "Ports" and you should see the USB cable adapter listed in a drop down (i.e. USB serial port adapter). LEFT click to highlight your adapter, then RIGHT click on the cable adapter and scroll to "Properties", left click to open the properties submenu. One of the tabs of this submenu is listed "Driver", a left click on the tab will allow a view of your options. One of the options is to "Update Driver" of which you can manual control to tell your operating system where to look for the driver you wish to use. It is beneficial to save the downloaded driver to your desktop so it is easier to locate it when performing this action.
But what if this doesn't work? Some hardware manufacturers require the drivers installed first, then install the hardware (to where the "automatic found device driver function blah , blah" works just fine). If you did install the driver after install the device, simply uninstall the hardware (hardware remove) and then re-install by connecting the device for auto-discovery. The automatic function of XP should find the correct driver this time, automatically. How do you know if it did? Simply go through the steps outlined above with device manager to view which one was installed.
Quote from: benebob on December 14, 2012, 01:26:53 AM
....Biggest problem I have aside from the mileage is the revs don't like drop down when you get off the gas and wanted to narrow things down before I accumulated everything for my 24k service.
Aha, revs not dropping and rubbish fuel = bad air leak on the inlet side. Too much air gets in, ECU tries to compensate by riching up the mixture, fuel consumption goes south. Helps to have the whole picture mate.
First place to look is IACV tubes (the crinkly ones going to your throttle bodies) make sure they fit tight and there's no split in the crinkles. If they're ok (unlikely) the next most common problem is throttle body gasket. Its not likely to be the iacv sticking as your revs do drop eventually but it is also a possibility. TuneECU can functionally check it if you get it working. You can't check it with volts and a meter as its a digital signal, you'll bugger it up properly if you try.
Regarding the driver issue, as well as uninstalling the old one you'll have to find where windows saved it and delete it. You can then connect your cable (turn of internet in case windows tries to download it) and load the correct one.
This looks promising:
http://www.pbcomp.com.au/remove-old-device-drivers-windows.html
:XXcomputer
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 14, 2012, 08:44:52 PM
Quote from: benebob on December 14, 2012, 01:26:53 AM
....Biggest problem I have aside from the mileage is the revs don't like drop down when you get off the gas and wanted to narrow things down before I accumulated everything for my 24k service.
Aha, revs not dropping and rubbish fuel = bad air leak on the inlet side. Too much air gets in, ECU tries to compensate by riching up the mixture, fuel consumption goes south. Helps to have the whole picture mate.
First place to look is IACV tubes (the crinkly ones going to your throttle bodies) make sure they fit tight and there's no split in the crinkles. If they're ok (unlikely) the next most common problem is throttle body gasket. Its not likely to be the iacv sticking as your revs do drop eventually but it is also a possibility. TuneECU can functionally check it if you get it working. You can't check it with volts and a meter as its a digital signal, you'll bugger it up properly if you try.
Regarding the driver issue, as well as uninstalling the old one you'll have to find where windows saved it and delete it. You can then connect your cable (turn of internet in case windows tries to download it) and load the correct one.
They didn't start together. Have been asking about the revs since late summer. Was getting great mileage until the weather turned colder then the bottom fell out.
I need the net to download the driver as I just have a netbook.
Sorry, loads of folks on here ask for help and I do my best. Most don't even take the time to use the search button. I don't keep a log of who I help with what, so hadn't made the connection in your case.
Moving on, and regarding your netbook, right click on the .exe link and save it to your desktop instead of running it. Then turn off internet, then delete the driver, etc etc...
:wave Also found this:
As for how to remove the newer driver, if it has an installer listed in Add/Remove Programs, then by all means use that. If not, you should be able to manually choose the older driver by right-clicking on the device in Device Manager, selecting "Update Driver...", "Install from a list or specific location", "Don't search. I will choose the driver to install", etc. Or did you already try that? (As well as selecting "Uninstall..."?)
Isn't it amazing what comes up if you just Google "How to completely remove a Windows XP driver"? You could spend all night reading what comes up.... :hat10
yeah, I've tried all the basic stuff on manually selecting and no matter what I do it doesn't like the driver. Will try another computer again. Was hoping to check it out tomorrow as I have the day sans my daughter for the only time before ski season starts so I doubt I'd get to it until I rip the bike apart for my 24k and a respray (really wanted a green Girly so a green one I will make).
Had a bit of a faff with the drivers myself but once sorted it works a treat. Just finished doing the Thruxton after a few mods and it helped show up some air leaks that were preventing a smooth idle. Very happy and I push everyone thinking about putting a PC on a Triumph that way now.
Well I got it loaded onto our desktop and took that out to the garage. Proper map was on it 9893 for a TOR exhaust. No codes stored etc. Everything seemed within expected numbers etc. Pulled the tank and checked vac lines which seem very good, no noticable air leaks. Sprayed the intake with wd40 while running with no changes in idle. Got gas, this 1/2 tank came in with a little better than the Jaguar XJR at 28mpg. Changed the oil b/c it did have some frothy brown crude up top of the fill plug. No don't say HG as I have plenty of coolant and haven't added any since April/May when I got the bike and added about 3 -4oz. to bring it up to the upper level. Had been in since June and around 4k since oil was changed? Oil itself looked good for antoher 4k (mobil1t 10w40).
What should I look at next or is the Girly just a bad bike for commuting on everyday of the year?
Would be of great help to take some screen shots of all the screens from TuneECU when the fan switches off at working temp. As said before with such short journeys the revs will take time to drop and the fuel consumtion will not be that great due to the ecu running on temperature controlled mixture ie choke. The effects of this can be lessened to a point but we cannot access the hard coding to alter it. The throttle body balance also has to be EXACTLY correct as any inbalance or air leak will lead to substantially annoying running faults.
The frothy brown crude under the cap also indicates an engine that is always running cold and not brought up to temperature enough. Since you are able to now "see" via TuneECU, ensure the bike comes up to temperature meaning the temperature sensor allows the ecu to "see" a normal operating temp. If it does not, then it will stay in a cold enrichment mode and thus burn a lot of fuel unnecessarily which equates to crappy mpg (possible cause could be a stuck open t-stat). Easy to do while you are gaining the screenshots as metalguru recommends.
I've been riding various bikes throughout the winter and have never had this much left in there nor had mileage even remotely this bad. We haven't seen mornings below the lower 20s. I rode my old Nighthawk 650sc in -10 degrees f. and had no issues with it warming up. Granted most other bikes I left open the breather so it would drain but even when I've unplugged the hose on the Tiger I get virtually nothing out of it.
This morning 1/2 of my commute the bike was at the first line on the temp gauge which is where it runs pretty much all year long unless I'm idling in traffic so it isn't a bad t stat. Warms up fairly quick IMO.
So then the reading you observed for the temperature sensor via TuneECU matches the temperature gauge? And it would be also wise to check the barometric sensor reading as well to make sure it is telling the truth to the ECU. All this information gathering is to determine whether it is fuel management issue via the computer or mechanical issue such as vacuum lines, air leak, faulty fuel pressure regulator, etc.
Reading through your posts, would it be correct to assume this is the first liquid cooled bike you have used in this situation?
These can be right maladies when they want to be but usually it is something that can be sorted, just that trying to fix it from afar has its own difficulties, we usually get there though.
Nope. Not the first liquid cooled. The first non Japanese though so maybe Brit bikes are like Harleys and run for cover when the weather gets bad. Again, I'm not asking it to go in sub zero temps and it is heating up to normal operating temps for even the summer time during all of my commutes.
I stand by what I said about the ECU, for some reason, chucking too much fuel into the pots. If it's definitely not an air leak causing the ECU to richen the mix, then it's something else. I'm losing track of where we've been withthis so here's starting again with a clean sheet and thinking out loud.
Is the O2 sensor reading around 0.45 volts in TECU? If not the sensor may be U/S.
Does the IACV cycle smoothly when tested in TECU? (engine off, start the test in a quiet garage and you'll be able to hear the slight whine it makes as it goes through the test loop).
Are the IACV tubes a TIGHT fit on the throttle body stubs?
Is the air temp sensor giving a sensible reading ie if it's 10deg in the garage, does the sensor read 10 deg too?
Is the Baro sensor hose connected properly? The baro sensor is in the ECU and is connected to the airbox by a hose. The hose can be crimped by the battery box. It can also leak around the plastic elbow where it connects to the airbox.
Does the engine temp sensor read correctly in TECU?
Is the TPS (throttle position sensor) reading correctly in TECU?
In the end, the ECU makes fuelling calculations many times a second based on engine temp, air temp, air pressure and throttle position. It reads throttle position from the TPS, it calculates how much oxygen is available by reading the air pressure and temperature, looks up the value in the fuelling tables and meters fuel accordingly by opening the injectors for the correct number of milliseconds. It adjusts the fuel ratio to compensate for a cold engine by reading the engine temp sensor.
Just thinking outside the box for a minute, is the value for the injector metering correct? You'll need Metalguru for the value as I don't have it to hand. If someone's tampered with it it throws the whole fuel map out.
It's also worth saving your map to the 'puter then blowing in a clean version and doing the 12 min tune, or even the alternative to the 12 min tune (see stickies) just to be sure the map is ok.
Have you had the ECU connectors off and checked for corrosion such as what killed Chairhead's? All long shots, but it seems we're getting no-where with the obvious.
I just bought a cable off ebay, but after reading this thread I don't think i'll bother, I can see disaster on the horizon if I try it. Anyone near Dundee know what they are doing with these? I have a Quill can to fit.
If the bike is running ok before you start you'll be fine. Just READ the instructions so you have it clear in your head. And be sure to use the TUNEECU drivers, not the ones with the cable. If you know how to do that you have enough knowledge to do this. If you don't you were probably right.
You won't do any harm unless you try uploading. Once you have a connection you can root around and will feel more confident.
Pity I just got on a plane this afternoon :icon_rolleyes: