Today I thought I'd have a look at the shock bottom bearings. This is not like doing it on an early Girly.
The bolt came out easily. The fucking bearing bush didn't, by fuck it didn't. I've posted elsewhere that I prefer science over big hammers but today, after breaking two home-made pullers, I gave in and beat shit out of it till it gave in (and that was after an hour of soaking with WD40). :BangHead
Sure enough, like everyone else's, the needle bearing was knackered. :BangHead It hadn't seized, but it was getting close. Time to remove the shock.
It was at this point I realised you need the hands of a gynocologist to get at the top mount but, to be fair, it wasn't seized or anything so came apart fairly easily. Then the next problem. :BangHead :BangHead
Now, I've been reading and posting here for some years but don't remember anyone mentioning you have a choice when removing the shock; remove the effing swinging arm or remove the sodding undertray to create enough room. :BangHead :BangHead :BangHead
I didn't want to create more work by disturbing the swing arm, so opted for the undertray. WRONG!!! There are loads of finniky little fastners to get at and remove before you can get it out of the way and a lot of them are severely crudded up.
Anyway, it's now on the bench so I have decided to look into maybe replacing it completely. I'm not keen on the Hagon judging by reports on here so I'll have to see what I can find. Stand by........
E'rr will need a better explanation,what are we talking about??? 955i rear shock??
Have found with practice, although involved, the removal of the undertray is a bit like taking the tank off for the first time. Unless the swing arm has to come out then it is easier.....Honest. Just for suspension unit change then the undertray removal is better IMHO. Safer too if not working on a ramp.
When I was full time engineering one of the values we had was a very clean workshop (would make a woman proud) as many jobs had to be carried out in a clean environment. With this in mind we never worked on a dirty bike, before the bike entered the shop it had the crud blasted off it with an industrial strength washer (Kaarcher) with detergent and the water blown off with compressed air. Hence we stayed clean, the shop stayed clean and the customer was happy to receive a clean bike back.
Oh yea just realised one of those new fangled things :sleepy1
Dont recall having to remove anything like that when I did the Wilbers transplant
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/cockneytaff/20110402_3-1_zpsfa8a3428.jpg)
I was going to check my Tigers rear shock after reading the "Maintenance Chart" which states "Rear suspension - lubricate at 24000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first" the bikes not done the mileage but will soon be 8 years old.
I can't find any other detail about this so presume it's the top and bottom bearings that need lubricating. My manual gives instructions on removing the shock, it does not mention removing the undertray or swinging arm. It does say to remove the battery tray to gain access. By the sound of it it's a job that needs to be started on a Saturday morning to make sure it can be back together by Sunday night. Bixer Bob, I'll wait to hear how long it takes you to complete the job, before I start.
Is there a way of fitting grease nipples to these bearings? My old Trident Sprint had grease nipples on all the shock pivot points.
OK' I just read the "How to" on removing rear shock and it is for the spoke wheel bike so looks like an update is required for Cast wheel Girlies. :thumbsup
Don't ask me how I know...... :doubt
Tim, I'm assuming the manual says remove the battery box, but even with that and my hugger out of the way, I still couldn't get enough clearance to drop it out. Nothing's happening for a day or two till I get some parts.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 28, 2013, 01:12:23 AM
Don't ask me how I know...... :doubt
Tim, I'm assuming the manual says remove the battery box, but even with that and my hugger out of the way, I still couldn't get enough clearance to drop it out. Nothing's happening for a day or two till I get some parts.
Yeah, and maybe because my bike was on an uphill slope the swingarm was able to drop further?
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 27, 2013, 01:55:20 PM
...gave in and beat shit out of it till it gave in (and that was after an hour of soaking with WD40). :BangHead...
WD40 is useless for a "seized" something. Little stuck maybe, "siezed" notta. It does not have the properties for that nor was it designed for that. Lots of threads on that topic on the net. Suggest folk review them cause alot make the same mistake thinking WD40 would help and end up frustrated like Bob here.
Think it may be wise to point out for those who have not attempted to remove the rear shock on the cast wheel models, the lower mount is via a bush that will only come out from one side as it is swaged on one end. It enters from the left side as sat on the bike.
As for WD40, I admit I have a personal hate for the stuff as it has caused me so much hassle in the past so should really be used for making bonfires leap into the sky. A hot air gun is far more use if a blowtorch or oxy-acetelene cannot be used.
Plusgas, or diesel is good for unsiezing. Paraffin is the base ingredient for both!
Nothing wrong with a Hagon shock, you just need to maintain the bottom bearing, but you should do that anyway, even with the standard one.
Quote from: coachgeo on February 28, 2013, 07:06:34 PMWD40 is useless for a "seized" something. Little stuck maybe, "siezed" notta. It does not have the properties for that nor was it designed for that. Lots of threads on that topic on the net. Suggest folk review them cause alot make the same mistake thinking WD40 would help and end up frustrated like Bob here.
May I suggest a little home remedy? A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Works brilliant for releasing seized fasteners or anything else for that matter. A guy on one of the other forums did testing with a variety of commercially available products, and this little mix came up consistently superior. I know it works for me. Be sure the shake the mix before using however as it separates when sitting.
A lot of useful information there, but you have to speak as you find.
The "hour" soaking with WD40 was after breaking pullers but before walloping it. Whether the WD40 loosened it or not is subjective, but it came out anyway.
I didn't find any swaging Nige, I'm almost certain it's parallel all the way but I'll check in the morning. Maybe you wacked it until it bell'd out? :hat10
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on March 01, 2013, 12:26:58 AM
A lot of useful information there, but you have to speak as you find.
The "hour" soaking with WD40 was after breaking pullers but before walloping it. Whether the WD40 loosened it or not is subjective, but it came out anyway.
I didn't find any swaging Nige, I'm almost certain it's parallel all the way but I'll check in the morning. Maybe you wacked it until it bell'd out? :hat10
have to agree, I bought a new lower bush when I did mine and it would go in either way, oooh eer missus.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on March 01, 2013, 12:26:58 AM
A lot of useful information there, but you have to speak as you find.
Maybe you wacked it until it bell'd out? :hat10
You mean it's not a rivited joint???
:BangHead
This is strange as I can remember seeing these stakes on the pin, perhaps some bikes had it for some unknown reason??? Will have to get a picture the next time it gets torn down.
Likewise, I'll photo mine before I put it back together. Mine needs a new bush too, but I think I'll get another month out of it while I decide what to do.