TigerTriple.com

I am at 23k miles and everything looks good and tight yet.  I consistently use a Teflon dry wax spray every 300-400 miles of wear and keep the chain pretty darn loose to avoid the vibration issues.

I would also like to know what components you all used when you did replace these parts.  I am in the USA.  Thanks!

Which time 1st ,second, third ,or fourth time replacing chain and sprockets?

mileage and the way it looks are not really a good indicator of how your chain is .


Read this it's pretty informative

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_chains.html

Stupid laptop....ment to click 25k up.

Using good quality C+S not the cheap ones, well worth the extra.

Edit  Thanks for the change of vote.
I changed the C+S when I bought the bike 18 months ago as a matter of course and bad previous maintaining and have so far covered 25k with no problems using dry teflon spray every 100miles av for all seasons except winter and EP90 semi synthetic as it more resiliant to salt and winter riding. Have only adjusted once in that time but I admit to being anal in keeping the chain very clean. My bike is lowered and the swing arm runs very near parallel as normal so run 30mm slack with swing arm parallel.

Quote from: metalguru on March 23, 2013, 09:13:50 PM
Stupid laptop....ment to click 25k up.

Using good quality C+S not the cheap ones, well worth the extra.

you should be able to change your vote now , ........i edited the poll to allow it .

I had to change my C&S at 11,280 miles because the previous owner had ran the chain so tightly adjusted :BangHead

Quote from: Mustang on March 23, 2013, 08:50:16 PM
Which time 1st ,second, third ,or fourth time replacing chain and sprockets?

mileage and the way it looks are not really a good indicator of how your chain is .


Read this it's pretty informative

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_chains.html

Thanks for the link Mustang.  From everything I know of chains  plus what I read in that article, I'm still good with mine.   I am starting to constantly be "aware" of how long I have run this chain and sprocket and the thoughts of failure start to creep in as I ride at higher speeds or the long drones on the open highway.

I will probably be replacing mine soon.....

Same here... my beast done 10200 miles and had been run way too tight so changed for a gold did o ring type chain and changed the sprockets for stock. took all the advice from here and adjusted accordingly, sweet now.

So I did a very thorough chain inspection today. First, cleaned the chain and visually looked at all of the sealed X/O (whichever it has) rings looking for ones that were chewed up, missing, squishing out etc.  All looked good.

Next did the Service Manual measurements which calls for 20-40lbs of weight to be hung on the lower section of chain while you count off 20 of the links on the upper section and measure them.  The Service Manual says to do this for several sections and if any of them are greater than 321mm, to replace the chain.  I did this for 4 sections and they were all at 321mm.

Next I visually inspected both sprockets for any worn teeth or unusual "curvature" of the teeth, and all were good. Lastly while I had the counter sprocket cover off I cleaned the crude off of the inside of the cover (enough in there that the chain was dragging though the build up of sludge) and around the case of the engine behind the sprocket and then blew the area out with some compressed air.

Just as an FYI, I run my chain SO loose that last Fall my chain guard broke at the rear mount and was bouncing up off of the chain! I have since tightened it a bit as I did not want to have to replace another chain guard for $55!

21,378 miles on the chain and sprockets as of today and I feel good enough about it all now that I will likely run it at least one more season, which is about 5k miles for me.

On average I seem to change chain and sprockets at about 25-30k (but have had many more miles than that in the past on some). I clean the chain about once a month and lube it with whatever chain lube I have every couple of days. Often use chain wax to keep the salt off in winter.

Just ordered new chain and sprockets for the current Tiger which has 21k on it and the c&s are original. It looks a bit rough and I don't no how well it was looked after by the previous owner.

Replacing it with a DID X ring gold chain as I always do.

Replaced mine at my 18k service. The rear was worn and went to the larger tooth front sprocket for better highway rpms. I do feel the old chain suffered from a lack of maintenance. Parts replaced with products recommended from the forum contributors and happy with what is on it now.

Think I might try a teflon dry product. The chain lube I use now has the uncanny ability to spray all over the rear wheel. Any other product recommendations?

Read Mustang's link above.  I had never read this but it makes a lot of sense.

"If you live in an area that has lots of sand (coastal areas, deserts), use oil."

I use the Teflon Dry lube that I can only find at Lowe's.  $5 a can, usually on the end cap near the tools section, at least at my Lowe's.

24k on stockers.
Sprockets weren't too worn but the chain was shot. Sticking/stiff links. When I punched out a pin to remove the old chain the pin had substantial grooves worn in it which I can only assume they all had.

So I finally got around to replacing my sprockets and chain at 24,400 miles.  Rear sprocket I could not see any real wear, CS definitely was starting to looking worn, and the chain...  I don't know, it didn't seem too bad.  I do know that there were stiff links but it just didn't seem that worn out.

Constant awareness of the mileage is what really got me to finally do it.  At least I won't worry much if at all about the new parts for another 25k miles.  I do use a Teflon based dry lube quite religiously, every 300 miles minimum. So I guess that worked well and will continue that maintenance.  I also run the chain very, very loose.  People will see it all the time and mention it to me that it looks too loose, like they are doing me a big favor, and I say, "yeah, I know. It's a Tiger, they are supposed to be that loose." Then they look at me like I am friggin stupid.   :icon_lol:

Quote from: atokad on August 08, 2013, 10:38:53 PM
Then they look at me like I am friggin stupid.   :icon_lol:

Giv em a hug and send em on there way :thumbsup

 :mut  ........Loose and Lubed   :bug_eye :mut

32k on original chain and sprockets, Scott oiler fitted from new  :wave

cheers Spud  :thumbsup

I was consistently getting about 18k miles out of each set, which always included a fair bit of gravel work, but got nearly 35 out of the last set. I put this down to an automiatic chain lube system I installed. I saw it working on a friends ZX14 and tried one myself.

I dunno about the science or the debate, but this seems to be workingfor me. Now to put an oiler on the 'Bird.

33K and 32K out of the only two sets I've replaced on my 69K bike.
I too fitted a Scottoiler from new and I also use a 19T front sprocket and replace that at 15K into a new chain.  :thumbsup

Still running originals at 18.5k miles.   Was going to replace them when I bought the bike, but just didn't need it. Rear sproket is fine, chain shows no stretching, and front shows slight wear.  Cleaned the shit out of the chain when I got it and then started using dupont dry teflon wax chain lube.  Haven't looked back since.

Quote from: lukeman on August 13, 2013, 02:23:32 AM
Still running originals at 18.5k miles.   Was going to replace them when I bought the bike, but just didn't need it. Rear sproket is fine, chain shows no stretching, and front shows slight wear.  Cleaned the shit out of the chain when I got it and then started using dupont dry teflon wax chain lube.  Haven't looked back since.

IMO it's worth putting a new front sprocket on if it's showing any signs of hooking. Cut's down the noise and gives the chain an easier time. AND, if you haven't already, you can put a 19T on.

It's been awhile since I posted!  :wave  So I went back to an 18T CS this weekend as the 19T just seemed to take away too much of the low end torque. DAM!  Forgot how much fun the bike was to ride.  I am now wondering what a 17T CS would feel like.  Anyway, just reporting in on my experience.

Probably wont ever use the 19T CS again.

If you go 19T you need to do the airbox mod as well.  And a sport exhaust can.

Quote from: Bixxer Bob on January 15, 2015, 09:38:21 PM
If you go 19T you need to do the airbox mod as well.  And a sport exhaust can.

Yep, have them both. Triumph can and off road tune and knocked out the snorkel divider in the airbox.  Maybe it because i do all of my riding above 5K feet? Dunno, thought better air flow in the airbox would make it better at altitude, but I am a lot happier with 18T CS.

Quote from: atokad on January 15, 2015, 06:37:29 AM
I am now wondering what a 17T CS would feel like.  Anyway, just reporting in on my experience.

Probably wont ever use the 19T CS again.

Pulls like a freight train on steroids ....... :wheel........... at the expense of about 500 rpm added to every gear for speed equal to an 18 t
and you are always looking for 7th gear  :nod

Quote from: Mustang on January 16, 2015, 12:48:08 AM
Pulls like a freight train on steroids ....... :wheel........... at the expense of about 500 rpm added to every gear for speed equal to an 18 t
and you are always looking for 7th gear  :nod

Yeah, I went for the lower RPM's initially but missed the "pull"!  If I were going to do a 2 week tour somewhere at highway speeds, I might consider putting the 19T back on.  For these type of roads though, the 18T rocks!

(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n313/atokadok/Pike%20Peak_July09/P7250259.jpg)

Tiger's could handle a 7th gear :nod

I had almost 30 k when I change mine. Ron