http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_3AsMFKf34&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_3AsMFKf34&feature=youtu.be)
has sounded bad since all the other stuff has gone wrong... ie: running like crap....
trying to get it going after winter I was using the starter a lot... I think maybe I damaged it?!?!?!?!?
you are NOT running on all three cylinders at idle
either you have still failed at getting the carbs sorted or you have coil problems
have you removed the pilot jets and cleaned ?
not the pilot screws but the jets themselves
have you replaced the orings on the float assemblies ?
how many miles on bike?
fly me , I'll buy it .fix it and ride it home to NH. (even though it's not the cool black ones) :ImaPoser
i took everything that screws out out.... cleaned, ran drill bits by hand, high pressure air thru, ultrasonic cleaning, ran a ox torch cleaning file/bit thru every passage that I could, sprayed it thoroughly with carb cleaner........ didnt change o-rings on fuel bowl...
I also have spark on all three coils... though it was only checked with a screwdriver to ground to see if spark was happening... so I dont know what else to do... seriously... any hints...
it is just shy of 27K on the clock... not sure what history is with the bike.. I got it with around 24K on it
I even sealed up joints on side air boxes, tightened exhaust bolts, checked oil levels,
Oh and it would be cheaper to light a match then fly you out hahahah but looking at it I cant do that... I do like it.. just not right now..
MUSTANG:
so I went and lifted the tank... started teh bike and took of a connector off of each coil... the 2 ont eh right side stalled the bike.. the one on the left made no difference.. so I would deduct the coil is bad...
though when I checked with a screwdriver the other day before all the carb cleaning there was spark at the plug end on all three?!?!
edit: just re-checked and cyl 1 although if I disconnect the coil nothing changes it still has spark when plug is pulled and fired up... good spark...
Is there any chance of removing #2 plug while motor is in bike???
replaced plugs...
no change...!
next step is I am going to switch coil pack places... see if the noise appears to move....
seems to get spark on all 3 but only 2 coil packs have an effect when a wire is disconnected....
My bike runs fine, but, when playing with coil, the same happens: when I disconnect the coil that goes to the first cylinder in the left, it seems to have no effect on the engine, while removing any of the other two causes a significant change in its smoothness or kills it. I replaced, in turns, the coils with the set I have on my other Tiger, and the same happens.
So I suppose it is normal that removing coil no. 1 has no evident effect on the way the engine runs, unlike the other two. I wonder why this happens?
dang it.. then that leaves me no where hahaha
maybe it's still a carb issue... I do not know how I can clean these any more....
I just got excited over my bike again yesterday and today... I am ready to burn it in the back yard....
well switch coils around... no real noticeable difference... but now its not as loud.... the clacking.. I mean there is some of that which almost sounds like it normally does.. so I guess the thing left to do is go for a ride and see if it runs...
the coils are probably good .
do you have a carb stick or means to synch the three carbs by vacuum setting ?
nope...
another question is I see many times here and on other posts that the pilots should be 1.5-2 turns but there was suggestion of something else that needed turing? or did I just read it wrong?
Worth taking carbs off,check that the spring under the diaphragm cap is located ok. My bike ran like that after a carb strip-down..spring wasn't located right. Worth a look? :icon_scratch: Check the diaphragms too.
To check for spark, why not take a spare plug, attach it to the coil you are checking and be sure it is grounded? Leave the other one in the head where it belongs. I always use this method to check the spark on my Farmall Cub; don't know why it wouldn't work here?
ssevy: spark was checked with a screwdriver the same way... it conducts spark... also I had no spare plugs that fit :(
I did have one spring all messed up in the diaphragm and I fixed that one... the needle was all the way up... I actually woke up this morning thinking... I wonder if that is causing an issue when I put it back... I think I can get that one out while on teh bike... might check it today
have you checked compression. You may need to adjust your intake valves.
nope... I havent...
I find it doubtful that the bike runs almost perfect before parking it at winter then the valves tighten up while sitting... but what do I know?!?!?
It is a simple check, and what you decribe is what I found to be the problem with mine. One of the valves clearance had gone to 0.
Oh, and do them when the engine is cold.
Good luck
Quote from: Henry James on June 03, 2013, 03:08:05 PM
It is a simple check, and what you decribe is what I found to be the problem with mine. One of the valves clearance had gone to 0.
but arent the valves near the top of the motor...
this sound is bottom right side... like in under the starter area... and it sounds like a rotating part as it changes with engine revs...
Maybe I missed something. I though you said it was hard to start when cold? If it is a noise issue disregard. If is a a hard to start when cold then follow what I said.
not me... I may have said it was hard to start after sitting all winter hence why I cleaned the carbs... and never apologize for genuinely offering advice...
Just to confuse the issue a bit more ... this morning I took a video with the exact same noise to my nearest dealer. His thoughts pointed towards a bearing inside the alternator. The check for that is to remove the alternator, reconnect the battery cables & run the bike without the alternator. You may have some oil spray that can be managed by a rag draped over the alternator opening. An easy check. He also suggested pushing a plastic rod against the through bolt (with engine running) to add end pressure to see if it has any effect on sounds, isolating it to a specific location.
Several years ago, I installed the fix kit for DAR & had great success dropping the noise level. It gradually came back over the last year. I also changed out the rubber cush drive parts on the alternator recently. It made a small difference in the noise level.
As to the carbs, I changed out my old Mikunis for Keihins last winter. No change to the noises, but about 30 miles more per fill up gain in fuel economy, even with 125 main jets on my K & N filter setup.
I have a 400 watt spare alternator from a Kawasaki Concourse that I may try to fit, just needing to change the cush drive end plate to make it work. Then I can dismantle the original to inspect further. My Felix has about 80,000 very hard miles on it now, so these types of problems can start to show up more frequently. This Tigertriple group has been anoutstanding help on keeping Felix manageable
Now ... you may all return to the usual backyard diagnoses ...
I'm joining this discussion late but will add my $0.02 FWIW. I had the very similar problems a few years back. The kitty (a '98) ran fine in the fall and like carp the following spring. I kept thinking it was fouled carbs and kept taking them apart for more and more cleaning. Well it was the coils, or one of them anyway. So yes they can go from working fine before winter and failing on the very first spring start up. Most folks here go with the Nology coils which bolt right in. I did the switch to the TT600 on-the-plug coils which I bought used on ebay. Its been running great ever since. But along the way I did discover the idle mixture screws were set even more lean than they are supposed to be from the factory. So it was pretty hard to start even with good coils. My advice is get some new coils; either Nology or the on-plug. Even if your coils are good now, they wont be for long.
On the DAR issue, my bike had it when I bought it (used). This would be the more common version of DAR caused by the bolt holding the cush drive vane on the end of the alternator shaft breaking off. The noise is not the bolt head rattling around but the [now] loose vane jiggling on the shaft. If you just replace the bolt it will break again. The factory bolt is a grade DIN 10.9 which is equal to US grade 8 which is a very tough bolt. You have to address the cause of the bolt breaking. The vane is held in place by splines on the alt shaft. The vane can wiggle a tiny fraction of a degree even when the bolt is tight. In some cases this tiny amount of play will gradually tighten the bolt until its so tight the head snaps off. Its just a poor design. The trick is to take up the play in the splines. I used JB Weld to epoxy the vane on the shaft and then install the new bolt. Use thread locking compound (Loctite?) and use just a flat washer. If you don't like epoxying the spines, you could try just the flat washer and Loctite. Don't use a lock washer as it helps create the progressive tightening problem.
Quote from: fishnbiker on June 15, 2013, 10:43:16 PM
Just to confuse the issue a bit more ... this morning I took a video with the exact same noise to my nearest dealer. His thoughts pointed towards a bearing inside the alternator. The check for that is to remove the alternator, reconnect the battery cables & run the bike without the alternator. You may have some oil spray that can be managed by a rag draped over the alternator opening. An easy check. He also suggested pushing a plastic rod against the through bolt (with engine running) to add end pressure to see if it has any effect on sounds, isolating it to a specific location. ....
So I tried removing the alternator & no difference on the clacking sound. Tried the screwdriver stethoscope method & seem to have unpleasant ticking located either in the counterbalance shaft or gears nearby. I just put in a new squish washer on the counter shaft, also with no difference, so will now look at the valve clearances. Meantime, the engine runs perfectly, cold or hot, so not likely the carbs or coils.
Another option to try is balancing the carbs.
Out of balance carbs can add to engine noise.