It's gone and no cover so it's an engine out job.
Read the how to guide but the pics are no longer available and I have a question if anyone can help.
Once the engine is out can I split the crankcase without removing head and barrels etc and can I access the sprag this way?
Thanks
not done mine yet but ive just ordered the parts to do it.
you dont need to remove head etc, just split crank cases
FLIP THE ENGINE upside down and use some wood blocking to hold up the opposite end of the crankcase from the cylinders and head . Keeps it balanced and level this way .
Manual says remove the clutch , you don't need to .
when removing and reinstalling the engine in frame , if you loosen the swingarm bolts the engine drops right out and jacks back into place super easy . :thumbsup
Thanks for the tips guys.
Ram33 how much did all the parts cost you - I 've yet to order them.
i think it was about £35 for the various gaskets and seals
another £28 for the modified neutral switch plate (it was recommended to change this on my bike as they are prone to warping then your neutral light stops working and needs strip down again. the modified one cures this)
:iagree do the neutral plate as well if you can, it's a pita when it starts playing up :icon_study:
If you are still looking, try these ones. It is a Thunderbird engine, but samesame.
http://imgur.com/a/wKc3x#46 (http://imgur.com/a/wKc3x#46)
Not my photos, just some I am referring to while doing a Speed Triple engine...
Thanks for the pictures Triple Tragic. I notice the clutch is being removed on these, I understand this is not necessary to do the sprag.
The engine looks nicely balance with the block of wood when upside down.
I'm planning to do this over the UK winter ready for some Spring riding!
Got waylaid over the winter so just got back to this now...
Engine is now out and splitting the cases tonight.
Managed to snap the 2 centre pot exhaust studs so will have to sort that out on the rebuild.
Must say getting the engine out was easier than expected - thanks to the tips here.
Removed the water pump, alternator and starter motor - wasn't sure if I was supposed to but was easy enough.
I'll report back when further along.
ive done mine now and all up and running
was quite straight forward to do. best to make sure everything is in labeled bags and take plenty of pics as you go along because you think you will remember how things go back - but you wont
Cheers - got the sprag out now.
Bagged up the bits.
Where is the neutral switch plate? Any pics?
Quote from: beefos on June 10, 2014, 09:02:16 PM
Cheers - got the sprag out now.
Bagged up the bits.
Where is the neutral switch plate? Any pics?
item 14 on here
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=304166&block_03=23773
are you replacing the sprag or doing the spring repair?
Ok got it now - my one is plastic so I guess needs changing.
I'm gonna change the whole sprag.
Next stop the dealers to price up all the bits!
How difficult is the spring fix on the sprag? Just seen the price of the assembly - not cheap!
Spring fix was quite easy. There are a few write ups around which tell you
What seal to get the spring from. Just make sure the spring ends are well fixed together - I soldered it then added some lock tight. If you need any help lmk and I'll find the links
I've seen your link to the seal the spring is taken from.
Is there a post showing the fix to the sprag?
I've not taken the sprag apart so not sure at the moment where the spring is going to go.
Maybe once I've stripped it I will understand...
Thanks
When you've got it out, there are 6 bolts to remove to open sprag, then you will see the loose/ broken spring. I'm at work atm, I'll have a look tomorrow for some pics
there is a pic of the sprag with spring on this post
http://www.triumphrat.net/t3-sport-touring-forum/109462-sprag-clutch-failure-part-i.html
Thanks that was a really useful link!
I've taken the sprag apart - the 6 bolts were loose! 5 were finger tight and 1 took a bit of a push but not green Loctite strength!
The spring is definitely loose so ordered the seal for pick up Friday and I'll have a go with the spring replacement.
I'll try the soldering idea as you suggested.
My bolts were quite tight but there was no sign of any loctite on mine either.
The spring should hold itself together as the small end is twisted into the big end but belt and braces may help to save another strip down
I also stretched my spring very slightly as the rollers seemed a bit tight when assembled. Maybe worth getting a spare spring cos I overdid it the first time
The spring from the seal in your post looks too small (R40x62x7). It is 40mm diameter whereas the original is about 60mm but very sloppy so maybe originally was smaller?
I tried it anyway and once together the sprag will not turn at all so maybe the tight spring is locking it up.
I'm guessing I'll need one in the range 50 to 60mm.
I've still got the seal the spring came from- I'll check the seal size when I get home. Did you remove any rollers? If so did you put them back correctly
3 dropped out when I took the spring off. I just put them back in with the slot in the right position to receive the spring. I suppose they could be upside down compared to original - is that a problem? I haven't checked the profile to see if there is a difference.
The spring is def from a seal that is 62x40x7
The spring is 1.5mm thick.
The cams should all face the same way
Had a good look at the rollers this morning using an eye glass and sure enough three were facing the opposite direction to all the others! Turned them round, it was much easier to assemble and it works perfectly - turns easy in one direction and locks in the other:)
Quote from: beefos on June 15, 2014, 11:51:56 AM
Had a good look at the rollers this morning using an eye glass and sure enough three were facing the opposite direction to all the others! Turned them round, it was much easier to assemble and it works perfectly - turns easy in one direction and locks in the other:)
thats all good then. just need to make sure the spring ends are secure
Putting the sprag back together it seems fairly tight to turn once the circlip is back in place.
As it was knackered before I don't know what to expect...
Before I put the circlip on it is reasonably easy to turn (in one direction).
Anyone know if this is ok?
mine seemed a bit tight, thats why i stretched the spring slightly.
i dont think it would matter to much though as it runs in oil and the spring will stretch itself anyway