My new in Feb to me 06 955i has a cold start issue. Starts just fine all the time but idles around 500 or less for a good 5 seconds, will sometimes stall, then it revs up to 1500 and is good to go. If it stalls, it'll take the normal idle when you restart, if you give it any gas until it reaches 1500 it'll also stall. 9k miles, serviced well by the previous owner (a VW of NA master mechanic I'm told) Any ideas where to look at first. Tried a reset by starting and letting it relearn the warm up procedure and it didn't change anything. Runs good overall, a bit of popping from the stock muffler but not nearly as much as my 885i.
Sounds like a sensor fault, being injected it has cold start activated by sensors for outside temp. that sounds like its not reading correctly. No help really as I don't know where that sensor is.
It has me stumped as it does it regardless of the outside temp and is gone in no time, or upon a restart if it stalls.
Id probably be inclined to look at the ol stepper motor/piston as again sounds similar to the issues I and some others have had. mine only got fixed after a new stepper but some have had luck by cleaning, youve gotta be careful though if you go taking it apart, and watch what lube you use, probably best to use a plain carb/injector spray. Yes, it requires tank and airbox removal. There is a temp sensor also in the airbox, Im not aware of any other temp sensors but dont take that as gospel.
Oh and finally, if you do go this route, dont forget to check that the little sponge gasket is in place on the idle housing before you put the airbox back
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/cockneytaff/20100516_1_zps5e0dad3e.jpg) (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/cockneytaff/media/20100516_1_zps5e0dad3e.jpg.html)
Scratch my reply then if it does it regardless of temp, try Tims fix and while your there check the vac hoses too.
I was holding off suggesting the stepper motor because it involves cash to replace, but as Tim says, you could try cleaning it first. The temp sensor in the airbox is used by the ECU to work out how much oxygen there is in the air going into the engine. The other temp sensor is in the thermostat housing and senses the coolant temp. The ECU uses this value to regulate the fan and to decide what the tickover revs should be.
It does sound like a sticky stepper motor though. I've cleaned mine and done everything else that I can think of, and still have a tickover problem. It starts ok, revving to about 1800rpm then dropping to about 1500 and then decreasing as it warms up. Completely normal. But then when coming to a halt it drops to about 900 rpm and only creeps up to 1200 (where I have it set at) after a minute or two. It's bloody annoying. It looks like I'm going to have to replace it. Funny thing is it cycles ok if you run the diagnostic test. It's got me baffled at the moment.
Since having a new map blown in before we went away mine has been all over the place,trying to separate the fuel map from the rest is my problem,now we've got got home it starts and runs like a good'un but in Spain in the hot weather it's been a bit of a tinker,but before doing anything drastic still need a few more decent nights sleep and a lot more thought :icon_wink:
One thing is for sure must be close to Metals map any speed you like and still 60 odd to the gallon.
After I have been back to shop and found out what map it is I'll do another post.
60+ mpg, that's impressive. Even with the big UK gallon thats better than 21 km on a liter. Mine does about 18-19 km/l.
Why would the stepper or a temp sensor not work the 1st start then work the 2nd or even after a few seconds? CI'm still not quite back to doing too much work myself yet from getting hit so I'd rather not chase things w/o being kinda sure ifyou know what I mean.
Quote from: Dutch on October 04, 2013, 01:29:12 PM
60+ mpg, that's impressive. Even with the big UK gallon thats better than 21 km on a liter. Mine does about 18-19 km/l.
Well that isn't normal for mine it's always been around low 40's to the gallon the way I ride it,the hike in mpg is down to the new map.
Quote from: benebob on October 05, 2013, 04:08:09 AM
Why would the stepper or a temp sensor not work the 1st start then work the 2nd or even after a few seconds? CI'm still not quite back to doing too much work myself yet from getting hit so I'd rather not chase things w/o being kinda sure ifyou know what I mean.
I don't think the temp sensor has anything to do with your problem but the only way to be sure is to plug in TuneECU and have a look.
We aren't saying the stepper motor is broke, just that it is sticking hence the suggestion to clean it. If it's sticking some of the time you get the symptoms you describe. As for it being fine when you start up, the ECU goes through a process when you turn the ign off. It parks the stepper at a pre-determined point, saves all the trim information to memory then shuts itself down. If you listen you will hear a click a couple of seconds after turning the ign off. That is because there is a relay which is controlled by the ECU that provides its power. This allows the ECU to control its own power supply independently of the ign.
Still not sure I grasp how it would only get stuck every cold start and if it does stall that it is unstuck every second time you start it. I've just not had something not stick so methodically.
Bixxer and Metalguru are way ahead of the game with mapping well ahead of me,but there's one thing I'm sure of it ain't an exact science,I had a new map blown in a week or so before out trip,I knew from the popping and banging it was running lean so expected good MPG,but in town in hot weather it was an absolute nightmare,come home runs like a charm!!!
As I said at the beginning mine is doing something similar and I've not worked it out yet, so only tabling ideas.
@Chris; yours will have trimmed itself back to where it needs to be. Bear in mind it only stores trim adjustments when pre-determined criteria are met. My guess is that the dealer put in a standard map (that's all he can do with theTriumph tool unless he used something else) and then reset the trims and then wound back the long term fuel trim to whatever the book says it should be. This is like changing the main jet in a Carb. If it was wound back a long way it would run as you describe but using the feedback from the O2 sensor the ECU would eventually put it back where it needs to be.
At the moment I've half a dozen balls up in the air with the bike things that need sorting but I shouldn't complain too much thought for a while the speedo was reading slow or the traffic was,ran the bike out today 95 on the speedo shows 112 on the GPS,no wonder we did Portsmouth/B'Ham in 2 hours flat must have been running around the 115 mark :icon_eek:,and finally found the 02 plug which was where you said but I forgot to take it on the trip ran quite well today with it in.
Are you absolutely certain you do not open the throttle at all when you start the bike. The symptom sound very similar to whacked throttle position sensor offset. I know it is such an ingrained habit from starting carburated bikes that it becomes second nature. The throttle position sensor resets when you start the bike.
Only 9,000 miles on the bike?
Tt will do now it's trimmed itself out. If you'd fitted it before you went, the trims would still be as the dealer set them. IE bloody awful.
The speedo running slow is more curious. I'm beginning to wonder if the dealer put a map in that's not meant for your version. Either that or your broken magnet is making itself known.....
Easy bit first the speedo has run slow for a long time because I set it that way,but it's even slower now sometimes but not all the time!!!.
Re the map,no matter what map I have had blown into it never stays that way,both my XT/K/R1100s do.
The way it ran yesterday is more than good enough.
Quote from: NortonCharlie on October 07, 2013, 12:26:11 AM
Are you absolutely certain you do not open the throttle at all when you start the bike. The symptom sound very similar to whacked throttle position sensor offset. I know it is such an ingrained habit from starting carburated bikes that it becomes second nature. The throttle position sensor resets when you start the bike.
Not touching the throttle at all.
Quote from: pineygroveshop on October 07, 2013, 02:23:46 AM
Only 9,000 miles on the bike?
Not even 9k on it. Got it in February after my 885i and myself got crunched by a drunk driver. Had 7500 on it at the time. Got permission to ride again in May, then had another surgery or two over the summer, just started riding again around the first of sept. Only put about 5 miles on it a day round trip from home to work, work to the gym, then gym to home so it takes a while to increase. :)
Couple of basic things here.
1. The convoluted pipes leading from the Idle Air Control Valve to the Throttle Bodies are worth checking out for cracks and fit on the corresponding spigots, if in doubt change for thick wall silicon vacuum hose. Some fit 5mm for a tighter fit and some have had success with 6mm.
2. While the tank is off to check this lot, the Throttle Bodies can be balanced. When balancing with very accurate gauges, the balance HAS to be EXACT or it will not run nicely or as it should.
If you are feeling adventurous when the airbox is off, look inside and you will see a wall of plastic with two small holes in it, it is good to remove this.
I am sure that because of the low miles the servicing has not been carried out fully as they probably thought it would be ok. There will be some Yellow paint on the balance screws, it is most likely still intact.
All good standard stuff Nige, but his fault, like mine, is regular and only at certain predictable times. That doesn't fit with the erratic behaviour caused by split pipes and bad balance. Not saying it's not worth doing, just it didn't fix mine.
BB
Yours sounds very much like the IACV is set too low.
EG, if it is set at say -8, try setting nearer 0 to say -5.
Carry out the blip test if the revs drop quickly to below target idle go to -4 and blip test again.
If the revs drop slowly and hover above target set to -6 and test.
Carry out at normal operating temp.
Not teaching to suck eggs but sounds like the problem. Have you blown a map in recently?
I my laziness and general poor condition has lead me to a possible solution for mine. I filled up 1/2 way with gas and added the up to 12 gallon bottle of chevron teckron to the 3 gallons of gas. The idle is now starting out around 1000-1150 before climbing and it hasn't stalled out yet. Granted I'm 6 days of riding into it so we shall see but all signs point to an injector that may not be spraying as good as it could.
Now there's something I hadn't tried!!! Gonna buy some injector cleaner and give her a good thrashing. When it stops raining. :icon_rolleyes:
It stops over there? :) I got made fun of when I went to get my hair cut today b/c I was in a vehicle with a top. The woman who cuts my hair has never seen me take something other than my TVR or a bike. Only reason I drove was b/c I had a dentist appt. 10 miles across town otherwise I would have ridden despite the 2 inches of rain we got today. I'm wondering if it might be a combination of dirty injectors and a bit of water in my gas.
Well now I'm stumped. Seemed like on the way to work it would bog down below about 4k then run fine above. Then on the way home it stalled, had trouble restarting it and now it doesn't like to run at all plugged in the ecutune and no codes or the like. It isn't safe to ride. I'm gonna drain the gas tonight and see what that does, but any other ideas?
Oh and not sure if this has anything to do with it. I've noticed for the past few weeks the headlights flicker a bit on the throttle. Had just assumed it was just from the regulator as I accelerated but I'm now not so sure. Not that the other very poor running started then. I did drain a bit of gas out today but didn't get it all out as I can't get the crossover fuel line off.
Any ideas?
Your battery terminals tight?
yes sir, also checked all the connectors I could reach without removing body work and nothing. It does live in the great outdoors and we just had 7 inches or so of rain on Thurs/Friday.
The best way to get the gas out is to turn it upside down. I had about 2 pints of fuel left in mine when I did it and when I checked that contained about 1/4 pint of water. I knew it was there because I saw some go in when I filled up in the rain. I was surprised how much there was though. And it ran as rough as f**k for 40 miles when it first happened. Maybe I need to drain my tank and have a look. The water would explain the rough running.
The lights issue - I think you should check your battery is getting a proper charge. Put a volt meter on it and see what it's doing.
Sadlyl the bike ran fine yesterday so I don't have a clue what the issue was, unless it isn't a tiger but a camel who loves hump day.
Have you filled up in the meantime? Even if not, if you've skimmed the water off the bottom of the tank it'll be getting good fuel again. I found that when I dumped about an eggcupful in mine when filling up in the rain. It took some miles to take up the water and then all was well again. But I still had water in the tank, just it was below the pickup level.
The main cause was a blocked filler cap drain. I realised it was blocked when the water that had built up under the cap ended up in the tank instead of draining away. Clearing it took a bit of time but was worth doing. I preach at everyone to clear theirs regularly but omit to do the same myself :icon_redface:
If I find water in mine next time I take it off I will hope that it sorts some of my issues too..... :icon_rolleyes:
No, I'm still trying to run off what's in there. Didn't get more than 2/3rds out. I road tonight and gave the throttle all she had thru the first two the coasted a bit after shifting up to 4th. When I hit the throttle again it ran poorly and bogged down before clearing its throat. Is the cap seal replaceable? Mine is an outside bike so if it rains faster than the drain will take even unclogged it wold take on water.
The drain will cope if it's clear, but often as not they are blocked. A long bit of wire and a lot of poking will clear it. Be prepared for skanky water to come out at the bottom, so don't go near with your mouth. Take the rubber hose off the spigot so you can see when it goes and if needed poke it from both ends.
Blew it out with compressed air, which was all that came out so she was clear.
Well rode fine this morning to the gym and back then started acting up later in the day today. Stopped and filled up when it started acting up as I was running on fumes trying to get a fresh tank. Got worse on the ride home, have let it run for a good 20 minutes now and it stalls, won't restart, pops and farts then occasionally runs just fine. Lights are flickering still a bit, battery is over 13 volts, when running at an idle it is 13.6, drops a bit when you give it gas but that could just be the cheap volt meter I'm using. Never goes below 13.2 but shouldn't that be up around 14ish at 3 grand? Where is the stator wires and rectifire wires at on this thihg. I still haven't bought a book, just using the 885i book still.
Anybody want a nice low miles 06? Beyond frustrated now and getting pissed. Might just be the type who should stick with the old tech stuff that you can work on in your garage.
Is your vent tube open and working ? When it starts acting up just open the gas cap and see if it is holding a vacuum.
No sir as to a vacuum.
Strip the bike and start from scratch,tank off change the fuel filter,undo all the connectors scrape e'm clean and regrease,new plugs airfilter and make sure everything is clean and tidy and how it should be and then try again,this thing about been serviced by a.n.other it's yourself or a Triumph dealer you are happy with.
:iagree
And balance the throttle bodies and blow in a fresh map.
I was kinda hoping for something other than throwing parts at it as non of that makes sense as it is an intermitent issue, besides, with 8k on the odo it is quite a waste to put plugs and an airfilter on it isn't it.
Ditto with the throttle bodies and map as it goes from running perfect to horrible and then back.
OK then Benebob,
There has been a lot of advice and the usual culprits to try.
I have just read through all the posts again and I can't seem to find anything that's been advised, being used.
Have yourself or anyone else tried any of the diagnostics on the motorcycle?
To progress any more we do need info on anything found amiss when investigated.
Have you used TuneEcu, if you have what are the voltages for all the sensors? In particular the TPS.
Do you know if the map is corrupt, yes it does happen.
Has the battery gone flat on the bike?
Has the tank been removed to check the basics, if in any doubt renew the IACV pipes, although the miles are low they are getting old, are the throttle bodies EXACTLY in balance.
For a resumption of normal performance, the basics HAVE to be correct and the process of elimination conducted.
Only trying to help!!
Yes as I stated early on, Tune ECU shows nothing out of the norm of specs, and no codes. TPS is reading as it should. Map was already replaced as that was an easy thing to do with it hooked up. Battery was replaced with the known good one from the 885i that has spent time since the accident every couple weeks on a tender.
Tank has not been removed as I said I'm still not physically capable of doing it myself and without good logical reasoning on something to look at I'm not gonna call in a favor to remove it for an exploritory session that may or may not do anything. Most all that has been suggested I can't really see being intermittent and most all seems that it would throw a code or show up on the tune ecu. Of course I could be wrong but most suggestions seem like a stab in the dark to this point. I'd hate to throw $1000 in parts at something to still not have a solution, esp. on a bike that shouldn't need most of that stuff yet. I do appriciate all the help thus far, just trying to decifer things before tearing into something that I'm really not quite capable of just yet. Hermy's is quite a hike and I wouldn't trust my local new dealer as they just got Triumph over the summer so they're not really experienced just yet.
Still trying to find out where the rectifier and stator connector is as I haven't picked up a 955i manual yet and the 885i had the wonderful external alternator.
As per my last post,
What are ALL the sensor voltages please?
I've also read through this again and I'm getting the feeling that the latest problem is corrupt trims. Use TuneECU to blow in the map again, but do it this way:
Read the map from the ECU. If you can't that's a good sign - means map is corrupt.
Load correct map from TECU archives.
Blow into ECU.
Turn ign off, wait for the relay to click (5 secs or so), turn back on, re-establish TECU connection.
This is the bit I can do with TUNEBOY but not sure if TECU does it; reset the trims.
Turn ign off, click, on again.
Start the bike.
Metal
Here are the readings I got this afternoon. Started up just fine and took an idle, pops and farts but kept running.
Pulse
1.962 1.885 1.946
Coil
1.490 1.471 1.503
tps
3.4 .55
o2
.075 -2
Temp
34c 2.33v .94v
Fuel trim
4.3%
Idle
1240 4
0% 4.8
Baro
1006
Let the bike warm up fully then ran down the street. ran fine save the poops and farts. came to stop sign 50 yards from my garage and it stalled, took about 30 seconds of cranking (5 seconds a piece) then it finally started, ran fine again around the block without stalling but still popped and farted.
Bixxer, what do you mean by blow into the ecu? Do you mean blow into the breather tube thingie? Also what do you mean by reset trims?
Blow = load a new tune to your ECU
I've just checked, TECU doesn't do trim reset like Tuneboy.
You can reset them doing this though:
Use Tune ECU to make sure the following conditions are met; the bike is in neutral, the engine is idling, the coolant temp is between 80 and 96 Deg C and there is a minimum airbox temp of 21 Deg C.
Blip the throttle to more than 3000rpm
Let it settle, wait 30 secs and blip again. Keep doing this until it sorts itself out. Watch the O2 sensor reading while you do this, 0.46v is midrange, it'll swing between 0 and 0.9v
I'm not sure if this still works if the map has been modified to lock out the O2 sensor. It should, but you never know....
Definitely concur with BB on this, it is easier to start from a level playing field as we can then start the process of elimination.
The TPS looks out of range but could be peculiar to your bike.
When resetting the TPS and any further adjustments must be made with the engine hot. The THROTTLE on the diagnostics page will prove when the voltage stabilises.
When you have installed the std map for your bike, and reset the TPS, if you bring up the TESTS on TuneEcu and on the left hand side there are a series of buttons. Double click on Idle Speed Control, you will hear a slight noise from under the tank, this is normal and will clean out the IACV. Start the engine and run until TPS lamp glows green and the two arrows closeby will illuminate showing the O sensor is on line.
Idle fuel trim set to 0:0.
Long term fuel trim is like a main jet, adjust till even running is found, should be between 3 and 4:5 all bikes are different and a rule of thumb are within a certain region.
IACV is adjusted by blipping the throttle and adjusting IACV either up or down until the revs drop evenly down to idle and not below or hover above.
By this time you will have found a very accurate voltmeter too.
It would be better to know the Throttle Bodies are accurately balanced too, but this is a good start and progress.
If you are uncertain of any adjustments with TECU please consult the text on the website.
Thanks will try to get to it tonight depending on the weather. Downloaded the 172 map again last night to make sure the last one wasn't the issue. Is there a proceedure to reset the TPS with tune ecu. I've read different threads with totally different proceedures.
The one to read is for the Sagem ecu.
Bike has been running for 30 minutes and tps light has not come on, still reading notta. Did Triumph call Lucas for theirte, computer? Heck even my TVR seems to have a more advanced ECU system (at least quicker). I'll give it another 10 minutes then shut it off.
Update, 50 minutes and nothing.
At an hour with no green light I blipped the throttle, it went to 3% at 4k. Could that be the problem, if so then shouldn't it throw a code and wouldn't it run poorer then the higher the rpm? It seems to be the opposite. Functions normally with the bike off. Full throttle goes to 77%.
50 mins run time with no stalling :eusa_clap
I presume the readings are for the TPS? That will be correct.
Sometime the TPS lamp will not glow, it seems a glitch in the software, sometimes by switching from Diags to tests and back again will do it.
It's a lot of work when you don't even know if it's a dud plug!!
Quote from: metalguru on October 23, 2013, 12:33:16 PM
50 mins run time with no stalling :eusa_clap
I presume the readings are for the TPS? That will be correct.
Sometime the TPS lamp will not glow, it seems a glitch in the software, sometimes by switching from Diags to tests and back again will do it.
Once it takes an idle it doesn't stall (and never did), only stalled coming off load or randomly at speed am I seeing it stall. Still seems to be running quite poorly and riding it around the block confirmed that so nothing has been resolved by replacing the map and reseting the tps except that the map is new and the tps might have reset though the light never came on.
As you can appreciate long distance diagnostics can be a bit tricky at best and long drawn out with 'poorly' running.
Connect up to the bike again with the engine at running temp, make sure the pc is connected to its power supply.
Triumph to comply with emissions set up very lean and can cause problems.
On the tests screen in the lower left hand corner you will find Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
Memorise the present number you see.
Double click on the arrows and they will darken enabling you to adjust this value.
Click on the upper arrow and see what happens to the engine note, as you increase this value it is like making the main jet larger, if the engine falters like being on choke it is too rich.
If you lower the value it will falter and eventually stall.
Somewhere in the middle is ideal.
When you have this set right, may take 30mins to do, just above this adjustment is the Idle Air Control Valve. (IACV).
Darken the adjusters as before.
Blip the throttle to about 3-4k revs and see how it falls.
The higher the minus number eg, -8 going to -15 will bring the revs down quickly to below idle then recover back to target.
The lower the minus number eg -8 going to -4 will bring the idle down slower and if too low number the revs will hover above target idle.
Optimum will be for the revs to fall smoothly not abruptly to target, but not below and then back up to target.
Can be looking at 30 mins to get this correct.
Idle fuel trim needs to be at 0:0 at this stage.
If it is still 'poorly' after this, further investigations will need removal of the tank. (In the stickies).
As you have already said the engineer was highly accredited who carried out the previous work but by past experience has showed, because of the low mileage some maintenance works are not carried out.
Quote from: Chris Canning on October 23, 2013, 02:27:25 PM
It's a lot of work when you don't even know if it's a dud plug!!
I wish that was all mine was Chris, it's running like a pig except on big handfuls of throttle. I've done all the usual tricks and still not got it sorted. I'm not looking wider for things that might be wrong.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on October 23, 2013, 06:42:05 PM
Quote from: Chris Canning on October 23, 2013, 02:27:25 PM
It's a lot of work when you don't even know if it's a dud plug!!
I wish that was all mine was Chris, it's running like a pig except on big handfuls of throttle. I've done all the usual tricks and still not got it sorted. I'm not looking wider for things that might be wrong.
What I'm getting at this guy doesn't know, I'll bet good money those plugs have been in from day 1,he doesn't know if it's ever been stripped and if it has,has it been put back together alright,you climb the ladder from the bottom wrung not half way up,you know as well as I do it could be a million and one things,but just like 2 years ago when my XT starting playing up with 1500 miles on the clock from brandnew the problem a dud plug :icon_scratch:,do the basics first and then the complicated stuff not the other way round but hey ho.
Quote from: Chris Canning on October 23, 2013, 08:25:26 PM
What I'm getting at this guy doesn't know, I'll bet good money those plugs have been in from day 1,he doesn't know if it's ever been stripped and if it has,has it been put back together alright,you climb the ladder from the bottom wrung not half way up,you know as well as I do it could be a million and one things,but just like 2 years ago when my XT starting playing up with 1500 miles on the clock from brandnew the problem a dud plug :icon_scratch:,do the basics first and then the complicated stuff not the other way round but hey ho.
:iagree
1. It is not a dud plug as it isn't symptomatic of any bad plug I've ever encountered.
2. It is not a constant problem as in it comes and goes. Came home today rode for 15 minutes and notta problem. Brought it back to do the test that metal recommended and it runs poorly popping and farting the whole time. Took it around the block and it stalled 2 times and got pushed home.
3. The dealer I bought it from is probably one of the BEST stateside and it was a personal friend of the sales person's bike who had just done and wrote out the longest most anal letter of a winter maintenance log that I've ever seen this side of a complete tear down. He did stuff that I would only think of doing of doing during a full restoration or if there was an issue, not general maint.
4. Bike shows clearly that it was owned by an anal a$$hole not a freaking crappy parts replacer at a crappy dealer who had 2 weeks of training online.
5. I still can't wrap my head around how adjusting many of these things will correct a problem that comes and goes.
6. If I was physically able to take apart the bike at the moment I would but unfortunately the girl who hit my 885i that was poorly cared for, 7 years older and ran like a top is responsible for that not being the case yet.
7. After adjusting the trims and icav they were set where the bike runs best so again, adjusting those didn't change an intermittent problem.
Ok thanks for item 7.
Now is the time to remove the tank and carry out the diagnosis the correct way round.
Obviously you came to this forum for advice which has been duly given.
There are reasons why alot of techys are anal, it is because there is a specific route to follow in diagnosis and work proceedures. Sounds like a typical bike engineer who is proud of his work and documents for future reference so all jobs are undertaken correct with time and miles.
TBH I knew the last few steps were a waste of time without checking the obvious first.
Little things on these bikes are peculiar to themselves, like the little blue coilpac connectors that mysteriously come adrift and give an intermittent misfire.
Next job is tank off and check all that has been quoted before and I dare say the problem will be found.
Spark plugs do go down and more so when the mileage/useage is low as the insulator gets polluted.
I feel for you Bene, mainly because I can't get a handle on mine either. Despite already being on my second IACV, I'm probably going to leap in and buy another, if only to eliminate it from the equation. The IACV does tickover and very low throttle openings hence it being associated with the jerkiness around 2,500 rpm. That's about where you cut over from the IACV to the throttle bodies.
Quote from: metalguru on October 23, 2013, 11:12:30 PM
Ok thanks for item 7.
Now is the time to remove the tank and carry out the diagnosis the correct way round.
Nope, now is time to find someone willing to take the tank off for me and do it as again. I am not physically able to do it at the moment and I'm not about to wait as it is my normal daily transportation.
Quote from: metalguru on October 23, 2013, 11:12:30 PM
Sounds like a typical bike engineer who is proud of his work and documents for future reference so all jobs are undertaken correct with time and miles.
Exactly which is why I bought the bike based on seeing the list.
Quote from: metalguru on October 23, 2013, 11:12:30 PM
Little things on these bikes are peculiar to themselves, like the little blue coilpac connectors that mysteriously come adrift and give an intermittent misfire.
To me this is the problem with the whole system that Triumph used. Any misfire that is bad enough to shut of a stinking bike should throw a code. Sadly, I guess they still have some catch up to do in terms of engine management.
I can empathise with your recovery so can try some stuff that is sit down, light work.
If you haven't already it would be wise to check the main 30A fuse situated to the side of the battery box access is via the saddle removal. These have a nasty habit of melting. The holder is not that clever either especially if lots of accesories are running or have been run.
When it is running with the lamps on see if the first alternator phase cable connector is warming up.(Or the phase wires). Follow the wires from the left hand engine case and you should be able to feel the connector, this is connected to a loop of cable that eventually ends up at the regulaltor/rectifier behind the L/H side panel, it is this loop of cable that is modified in the sas charging mod.
I am not saying it is connected with your poor running but it is connected to your voltage readings.
It has been a long time since I did this mod and I am not sure if the tank HAS to come off or not to reach the upper connector.
If you would care to PM me your email addy I have a copy of the manual.
Well I'm two weeks away from an appointment (never try to get our bike fixed when the 5 month riders need to get their bikes winterized) so a friend and I are gonna have a look this weekend sans the tank. Have been riding it and still no codes nor any rough running so long as I don't start it by "getting on" the throttle followed by a coasting and letting it pop. It likes to stall and if it doesn't a period of rough running follows. Have 5' of 6mm air hose coming, as for the iacv is there any tests I can do or just clean it and the stepper. NGK iridium plugs worth it or just standard ngks?