It seems that the recommended plugs for my '95 Steamer are NGK DPR9EA-9, Is this correct? or is there a tried and tested improvement here in the UK? - Also The owners manual I have is for an earlier model as the wiring diag doesn't cover the (time) clock and the copyright mark is 1992, would that be the T300 model, is there a lot of difference? as the w/shop manual I have is for the T300 but seems to to be accurate enough.
Yes it seems. But in the WS manual it states grade 8 plugs, i went for grade 8 , they run a little hotter and self-clean better during short trips, which would be a good thing during start-ups. Grade 9 is not really required, only in high rev, high power engines.
Quote from: dave NL on February 08, 2014, 09:41:51 PM
Yes it seems. But in the WS manual it states grade 8 plugs, i went for grade 8 , they run a little hotter and self-clean better during short trips, which would be a good thing during start-ups. Grade 9 is not really required, only in high rev, high power engines.
Maybe DPR8EA-9 instead of DPR9EA-9? or is the last number the grading.
You got it right! DPR8EA-9
I may give them a try mate, Thanks.
just found this handy little thing http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/motorbikes_scooters.php while the subject of spark plugs is up, iridium v normal...whats the differnce ?
Quote from: rybes on February 15, 2014, 10:25:47 AM
just found this handy little thing http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/motorbikes_scooters.php while the subject of spark plugs is up, iridium v normal...whats the differnce ?
I suppose there are many who would argue this (maybe to justify spending 4 times as much on Iridium ones :icon_smile:) but I've been told by 2 mechanics that the difference between (quality) standard plugs and any other type for road use was only noticeable on a monitor/test equipment, as the driver/rider would not be able to tell otherwise, only the grade or 'temperature' really matters... Personally, having tried Iridium plugs in a GPZ900r, I would tend to agree. Some people are easily swayed by marketing... but that's just my opinion :icon_biggrin:
And thanks for the link rybes, that's a useful site, also interesting is how dave NL also suggested DPR8EA-9 instead of the OE DPR9EA-9.
I found the NGK website recommended DPR8EA-9, whereas the Triumph & Haynes manual both said DPR9EA-9. I went with the manuals, seems to run fine.
Interesting. The booklet which comes with the bike states grade 9. But the Triunph manual i got states grade 8.
Is there difference between manuals?
Besides the manual, also the research on the net leads me to think grade 8 might be the better choice for the steamer. ( carbs)
Injection engines usually run a little hotter, grade 9 would be more ovbious then
So... Its official now then - dave NL is the resident expert on steamer spark plugs - all hail Dave! :eusa_clap :icon_biggrin: Thanks Dave.
:iagree roflol
:blah :blah :blah :wheel
Quote from: dave NL on February 15, 2014, 04:24:11 PM
Interesting. The booklet which comes with the bike states grade 9. But the Triunph manual i got states grade 8.
Same for me. My service manual is US/Canada, but my owners manual is UK. Maybe they recommend different grades for that side of the pond??
As an aside. Is it me or are the cavities down to the plugs different diameters? I had an extremely frustrating session yesterday pm after checking the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3. No problem with 3, but when the plug was tightened on 1 the deep socket I use was wedged and would not come out. With a light shining down the hole I could not see any reason for it to get hung up. I ended up grinding some of the material around the lip of the socket.
And answer me this, oh Steamer experts. :bowdown You need to use a deep socket to get to the plug on cylinder 2. How are you supposed to get it in the hole with the lack of clearance between the cam cover and the frame tube, short of physically shortening it or taking the cam cover off???
I didn't have a big problem with #2 as I had already made up a tool using an old box spanner with a 3/8 drive 14mm socket welded in the end for my GPZ900r, fortunately it was just the right length if I inserted the tool first then attached the ratchet.
If you have the original Triumph toolkit there's a special plug spanner in it that does the job a treat :thumbsup
nick, its cos of the rubber gasket between the cylinder head and rocker cover. if its tightened down too much it squeezes out makin the hole smaller. if ya put a little oil on the socket before ya put it in it makes it easier to get in and out. if ya socket is still stuck in the hole, put in an extension bar and as ya pull the socket out twist it. it should come out easyish then
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 07:09:06 PM
If you have the original Triumph toolkit there's a special plug spanner in it that does the job a treat :thumbsup
Typically, I have the tool kit - but with the plug spanner missing Bob :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 07:09:06 PM
If you have the original Triumph toolkit there's a special plug spanner in it that does the job a treat :thumbsup
Ah yes. But unfortunately us poor souls that do not have one just :augie !!
Quote from: rybes on February 16, 2014, 08:46:11 PM
nick, its cos of the rubber gasket between the cylinder head and rocker cover. if its tightened down too much it squeezes out makin the hole smaller. if ya put a little oil on the socket before ya put it in it makes it easier to get in and out. if ya socket is still stuck in the hole, put in an extension bar and as ya pull the socket out twist it. it should come out easyish then
Thank you. I will try that next time. I had thoughts of giving my socket to a machinist friend and having him skilfully turn it down so it will fit. A rubber gasket is doing the nasty....hmmm.
Quote from: nickjtc on February 16, 2014, 05:43:00 PM
Quote from: dave NL on February 15, 2014, 04:24:11 PM
Interesting. The booklet which comes with the bike states grade 9. But the Triunph manual i got states grade 8.
Same for me. My service manual is US/Canada, but my owners manual is UK. Maybe they recommend different grades for that side of the pond??
As an aside. Is it me or are the cavities down to the plugs different diameters? I had an extremely frustrating session yesterday pm after checking the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3. No problem with 3, but when the plug was tightened on 1 the deep socket I use was wedged and would not come out. With a light shining down the hole I could not see any reason for it to get hung up. I ended up grinding some of the material around the lip of the socket.
And answer me this, oh Steamer experts. :bowdown You need to use a deep socket to get to the plug on cylinder 2. How are you supposed to get it in the hole with the lack of clearance between the cam cover and the frame tube, short of physically shortening it or taking the cam cover off???
You need the OEM spark plug wrench which is shorter than most.
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/97tiger885/0211021554.jpg)
Here is the Tiger wrench compared to the K100RS wrench.
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/97tiger885/Tiger/IMG_20140216_193526.jpg)
The Tiger wrench also has a rubber insert with a hole into which the plug terminal fits.
Quote from: 97tiger885 on February 17, 2014, 01:52:59 AMYou need the OEM spark plug wrench which is shorter than most.
Thank you! I will call the local dealership to see how much they want for one.
I 'skillfully ' turn things down usually with an angle grinder and file :mut
Quote from: JayDub on February 17, 2014, 11:26:28 AM
I 'skillfully ' turn things down usually with an angle grinder and file
:iagree Sounds like my way of doing things. :icon_wink: I come from the "if all else fails, hit it with a hammer" school of mechanics. :qgaraduate
I had a machinist turn down a plug socket for my Legend engine. You can also buy a name brand thinwall ($$$) or a cheap Chinese socket at a hardware which already has thinner walls. I use a piece of rubber fuel line to push over the ceramic part of the plug to install it, as it is easy to feel the "click" of the threads engaging when you turn the plug slowly counterclockwise. When you feel that click, the threads are aligned and you can then turn clockwise until the hose begins to slip on the porcelain. Pull the hose out, drop in your plug socket and torque away. To get the socket back out, I use one of those cheap magnets on an extendable antenna mast. You may need to experiment with what length of extension to use with the plug socket. The rubber hose is also used to retrieve the loosened plugs, a process I had to do twice when I last changed plugs, as I forgot to take off the threaded caps and the plug wires wouldn't go on. :icon_redface: