Sooooooo.....some may know what I'm about to ask and have the answer at the ready. Thanks you in advance! ;)
I received this Tiger last summer, 24k on the clock, old Avon Distanza's on it, and the front end was lowered 3-4". Bike rode fine=no death wobbles up to 115mph. :wheel
Stock settings for the front end is that the fork tubes are flush with the top triple tree. I ended up leaving 3/4" showing as I was concerned about being able to touch the ground.
Started riding............wobbles. Very strange as they would start out slow and progress. Off throttle they go away.
Did the outex tubeless conversion and threw on a set of Full Bore Adventure tyres. 80-110mph = death wobble. If I hit a bump in the sweepers......death wobble. If the wind hit the bike........death wobble. Sometimes the wobble would start at 85 and disappear at 90.......92......death wobble. :icon_eek:
Thoughts?
Correct pressure in the tyre? Tyre balanced properly? No run-out in the front rim? Steering head bearings ok? Wheels aligned? Prior crash damage to the front end? Concrete blocks in the luggage on the back? That's all I've got. :icon_wink:
Tyre pressues good. Balanced, check. Rim is good, check. Steering head bearings ok since it was fine before I raised the front.
Prior crash damage, check. Current crash damage, check. ;)
How many people still run their fork tubes flush with the triple tree?
Quote from: HeavyHustler on March 25, 2014, 04:16:18 AMHow many people still run their fork tubes flush with the triple tree?
I do, but do not know any better.
Wheel bearings? the problem may have been there all along and was hidden with the forks lowered (maybe that's why they were lowered) I've no issues with mine flush at the top triple tree but that's how I got it, and the rear has been lowered but don't know by how much. An old bike mechanic told me if the wobbles at the front then the problem is at the back and vice versa, ain't been over 90 on mine yet anyway!
so if you put the front back to 3-4" lower, is it all ok again?
3-4" is a huge drop. I have had wobbles but usually only at steady speed, acceleration or decelerating used to cure it. Bumping the pre-load up also helped, so agree with Jaydub's suggestion.
Yes the acel/decel has worked but I think I'll start with lowering the front. I also need to realise that adventure tyres aren't made for high speed sweepers! LOL!
:nono :nono :nono :nono :nono something is seriously fucked if you have to drop the forks 4 inches to keep it from death wobbling .
the forks should be even with the top triple clamp .
the rear chain adjuster should have the axle on the bottom .
and your rear preload needs to be set so you have around 1 1/2 inch sag .
sounds to me like your rear suspension is junk (read you need a new shock)
I can run at a ton plus with adventure tires and loaded luggage . and the only wobble I ever get is when I'm dancing with semi's at 95+ mph
Quote from: HeavyHustler on March 26, 2014, 06:55:45 AM
Yes the acel/decel has worked but I think I'll start with lowering the front. I also need to realise that adventure tyres aren't made for high speed sweepers! LOL!
The only wobble I had at fast but reasonable speeds in sweepers was from a worn shock. Two things happened there. The mc would be fine until I hit a slight bump mid turn, then a wobble. In left hand turns, the bump would cause the centerstand tang (SW Moto) to drag. Sasquatch fixed all that.
Well then..........I see racetech has a kit for $160. Time for a rebuild. Until then I'll keep it at 80. ;)
I had rebuilt the rear shock a few months back but I guess I'll look at a new spring. Not too many options for springs front/rear though???
Quote from: HeavyHustler on March 28, 2014, 07:46:07 PM
I had rebuilt the rear shock a few months back but I guess I'll look at a new spring. Not too many options for springs front/rear though???
no offense but I'd be lookin at what you did for a rebuild ........a new spring aint going to do shit for a wobbling front end .
whats your static sag set at ?
:nod :nod :nod the only other possibility I can think of that often gets neglected is the saying arm and linkage bearings but good damping should catch that before it gets out of hand.
Quote from: Mustang on March 28, 2014, 08:16:49 PM
Quote from: HeavyHustler on March 28, 2014, 07:46:07 PM
I had rebuilt the rear shock a few months back but I guess I'll look at a new spring. Not too many options for springs front/rear though???
no offense but I'd be lookin at what you did for a rebuild ........a new spring aint going to do shit for a wobbling front end .
whats your static sag set at ?
None taken. I tore the shock down, cleaned it up. Fresh oil and a recharge. I'll admit it was still squishy but thing weighs as much as an elephant!
Sag was set at about 40mm. Then adjusted it to the stiff side.......for an old shock still squishy. Rear axle is also set at the bottom setting. Never changed it.
I think you found the cause when you said "Squishy....."
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on March 29, 2014, 09:06:49 AM
I think you found the cause when you said "Squishy....."
Yeah that's what I was thinking........a nice mono-shock would prolly be a good idea and do away with the res.
Anyone know of a good US based company to pick a spring for my weight OR a mono shock?
again ................a spring aint gonna fix it !
sounds from your description the spring is the only thing working .
thus the wobbles .
why get rid of the remote reservoir ?
it's one of the best features of a steamer shock .
did you ever try adjusting compression and rebound ?
they are both adjustable on a steamer .
and the kayaba was a marshmallow when new .
+1 unless you have to screw the preload nuts right down to get your static sag then money on a spring is a waste.
I was looking at getting a new spring AND rebuilding the shock again. I checked the nitrogen last night and I'm down to 50psi with some possible seepage around the dial of the reservoir. Should be at 150-160psi no? I looked in my manual and didn't find a PSI suggestion.
I was also looking at the Hagon and HyperPro mono-shocks. Are these not quality shocks?
why not find a traxxion dealer and let them rebuild it and match a spring to your weight :icon_eek: ......problem solved .
hagons are like the difference between a v-6 and a v-8 in a mustang ............................
Ahhhhhhhh......I was not aware Hagons were sub-standard. Thanks.
they are ok not substandard but there are better ones out there hyper pro being one of them
your problem here in the USA is going to be trying to find a shock for a almost twenty year old bike .
and if you find one it will cost you damn near what you probably paid for your steamer .
Quote from: Mustang on April 02, 2014, 06:39:10 PM
they are ok not substandard but there are better ones out there hyper pro being one of them
your problem here in the USA is going to be trying to find a shock for a almost twenty year old bike .
and if you find one it will cost you damn near what you probably paid for your steamer .
Wilbers makes a nice looking shock w/ res for $1100! :bug_eye
what shape are the bearings in the bottom link the shock attaches too
most steamers that are used and abused have the bearings siezed from rust because no one ever greases the fittings you can't get to without dropping the crossover pipe
like this fine specimen of a steamer suspension link bearing
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/bearing.jpg)
When I was working on the bike a few months back and added the center stand I replaced the grease zirk with an angled one so I could grease it all up. Bearing was ok.
when i got my current steamer the shock was toast. i rebuilt it and added a medium weight shock oil. the p.o. had dropped the fork clamps about 2", i moved them up to about 3/4". handling was so-so with the rebuilt shock, a bit squirrely at speed and scary on a silty dirt road. decided to flip the rear eccentrics to lower the rear, and tried it without changing the front. perfect. i'm guessing my bike likes a bit of the chopper attitude.