Hiya fellas,
As per title, my '98 Tiger has developed an engine rattle.
On tick over, its coming (as you sit on the bike) from the left side, lower front as far as I can tell - definitely not the right hand side. Its fairly clattery but goes/stops the moment I apply either the front or rear brake and starts clattering again when the brake is released.....bike on side stand!
Can't notice it when riding due to road noise etc and performance/economy have not suffered.
I'm lost as to what it could be so any advice would be much appreciated. Not going to ride it tomorrow (daily ride) just in case someone posts a *fix it now* reply.
Forgot to add, all oil and fluid levels are spot on.
Cheers in advance for any help :thumbsup
Check the alternator! (DAR)... by applying the brakes the brake light operates and puts a load on the alternator, that's all I can think of.
Try turning on the side lights or indicators, or hazards even to give a similar load (42 watts if you're using twin 21w/5w tungsten bulbs) and see if its still happens.
Rattly 'anti-rattle' plate on the left caliper??
Doesn't explain why the rear brake makes it stop tho? :icon_scratch:
I wonder if your carbs have gotten out of sync, and you are hearing the "nuts and bolts being shaken in a coffee can" sound that these triples have at a low idle? Loading the alternator may be picking up the idle enough to get above the noisiest range. When my triples are out of sync, the popping on deceleration also gets worse. Have you noticed any change in that?
If this isn't it, I would say something vibrating somewhere harmonically that goes away when you load the alternator by applying the brake lights. Try increasing the idle with the adjusting screw very slightly to imitate what the brake lights are doing, and see if it goes away the same way.
what is the idling speed set at btw?
try ssevys idea and get your carbs balanced. mine sounded similar for years, always thought it was supposed to sound like that as it always did. got the carbs balanced, noise went annd it was like riding a differnt bike
Hiya fellas, many thanks for all the replies.
Carbs were balanced by my mechanic recently, who's a main dealer mechanic 3 days a week and 3 days runs his own works. He's been there since the dealership was built in '93 so knows all the Hinckleys well.
The tickover is @1100Rpm, all brakes were checked for associated rattles etc.
:bowdown Jaydub hit the nail on the head, its the alternator. Wouldn't lose the sound with sidelights on but as soon as the headlights went on then noise was gone - proved it lots of times.
Did a bit of searching for the DAR and found this below from Mustang
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6499.msg42785.html#msg42785
and this from Abruzzi
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5101.msg32101.html#msg32101
May go for the Loctite attempt first as it's quickest.
Question is, are there any issues with running the bike the way it is? Is it likely to lock in any way?
Cheers again fellas, nice one :thumbsup
Quote from: Frosties on April 21, 2014, 02:48:43 PM
The tickover is @1100Rpm
The factory/manual settings are 900 - 1050, mines settling around 1000 at the moment and seems happy.
I'm not sure what grief you might encounter regarding the Tiger alternator, but experience has taught me to sort it while you can, as these things have a habit of kicking you in the arse when you least need or expect it. I suppose they call it
Dreaded alternator rattle for a good reason!
Good shout on fix it now as I tend to do anyway. Have also found threads where Steamers have been like this for literally thousands of miles because even lots of Triumph mechanics haven't come across it, apparently "they all do that sir" :hat10
Will lay mine up and use the Fazer for the daily 100 mile commute until I get it sorted just to play safe.
Cheers again fella :thumbsup
hey Frosties,
Mine's a '98 model also and they were built with the upgraded shaft mod already done (Abruzzi's link). Mine has also suffered from a rattle a couple times. First time I just renewed the bolt and tightened it up, second time found some super strength loctite and it's been fine for at least 10000 miles now.
Quote from: GavD on April 21, 2014, 08:26:50 PM
hey Frosties,
Mine's a '98 model also and they were built with the upgraded shaft mod already done (Abruzzi's link). Mine has also suffered from a rattle a couple times. First time I just renewed the bolt and tightened it up, second time found some super strength loctite and it's been fine for at least 10000 miles now.
Hiya Gav,
That's good to know fella, cheers for that. Looks like a quick fix with the Loctite then. Was it proper Red Loctite or the Loctite Glue. Anyone reckon a metal glue like like http://www.amazon.co.uk/ARALDITE-RAPID-STEEL-ADHESIVE-STRONG/dp/B000WA9QIU
Cheers :thumbsup
Quote from: JayDub on April 21, 2014, 04:50:21 PM
Quote from: Frosties on April 21, 2014, 02:48:43 PM
The tickover is @1100Rpm
The factory/manual settings are 900 - 1050, mines settling around 1000 at the moment and seems happy.
Try 1200rpm. These engines definitely perform better with a 'higher' idle
Quote from: Frosties on April 21, 2014, 11:27:51 PM
Quote from: GavD on April 21, 2014, 08:26:50 PM
hey Frosties,
Mine's a '98 model also and they were built with the upgraded shaft mod already done (Abruzzi's link). Mine has also suffered from a rattle a couple times. First time I just renewed the bolt and tightened it up, second time found some super strength loctite and it's been fine for at least 10000 miles now.
Hiya Gav,
That's good to know fella, cheers for that. Looks like a quick fix with the Loctite then. Was it proper Red Loctite or the Loctite Glue. Anyone reckon a metal glue like like http://www.amazon.co.uk/ARALDITE-RAPID-STEEL-ADHESIVE-STRONG/dp/B000WA9QIU
Cheers :thumbsup
Just had a root around in the garage and found 1 bottle of Loctite 270 - high strength stuff. I'm pretty sure it was that stuff I used, but it was a few years ago and my memory's not what it used to be.
Now what was i doing? :icon_scratch:
Threepot - To be honest, I used to run it with 1000Rpm but upped it to 1100 about 2yrs ago - makes for a faster get away round London, much better!
Cheers for that Gav, went for the Araldite steel glue as I could get it delivered quicker so should do the job as good as the Loctite 270 - let you know.
Cheers fellas.
If the rattle causes any issues then I'll let you know soon. Had to go back to using the Tiger when I found out yesterday the Fazer's MOT expired in February - used it loads of times since then :augie
you won't do any damage to motor running with DAR for thousands of miles ...............
you will find one of three things when you pull alternator to repair .
1. (best scenario) the bolt that holds the drive vanes to alt shaft has loosened causing the drive vanes to "rattle"
2. (most likely scenario) the head of the bolt snapped off and was bouncing around . this also lets the drive vanes "rattle"
3. ( worst case) the broken bolt head has rattled around so much that it destroyed the threads in the end of alt. shaft and will need some tlc to get back to operation , or a new alt .
been there on all three scenarios with my two 98's I have , mama's 95 has never had an issue at all ( I think that depends more on how the 3 bikes are ridden)
QuoteHad to go back to using the Tiger when I found out yesterday the Fazer's MOT expired in February - used it loads of times since then :augie
Done that also. And just the other day,realised my tax was out..when I was out on the bike! "Don't the months fly-by officer" :bad
Mustang, that's a big relief knowing it won't get screwed totally until I can have a look at it. Hoping for option 1 or 2 to be honest but saying that, a 2nd hand one can be picked up fairly cheap. You've put my mind at rest fella, thanks :thumbsup
Three pot, yup also done the tax by a few months. The only thing that don't slip is the insurance. I blame the wife for shite organisation of my transport fleet :icon_mrgreen: