Hi all, havnt been around for a while. The bikes been out of action over the winter having work done. This was an engine out job. It wouldn't go into gear. The problem was a bent gear selecter so while it was out it near enough had a recon engine ie piston rings,valve stem seals,cylinder head gasket, carbs ultrasonically cleaned and also had a new rear shock fitted. Everything was hunky dory and I did about 500 trouble free miles over the last couple of weeks but its now back with the local mechanic. While I was out riding the bike was losing power gradually throughout the day and eventually just stopped. I was thinking it was maybe something to do with the carbs.It started this morning but then there was a lot of burning plastic coming from a small box coming from above the carbs when I looked from the side of the engine. I thought the bike was going to go up in flames and turned the engine off. Surely there must be an inline fuse somewhere to stop this? Would really appreciate the help just to give the mechanic the heads up because as you know these steamers really get into your blood thanks tony.
only small box above the carbs i can think of is the coils?
how much did you pay for the valve stem seals?
Quote from: ynotbiker on May 01, 2014, 06:11:04 PM
Hi all, havnt been around for a while. The bikes been out of action over the winter having work done. This was an engine out job. It wouldn't go into gear. The problem was a bent gear selecter so while it was out it near enough had a recon engine ie piston rings,valve stem seals,cylinder head gasket, carbs ultrasonically cleaned and also had a new rear shock fitted. Everything was hunky dory and I did about 500 trouble free miles over the last couple of weeks but its now back with the local mechanic. While I was out riding the bike was losing power gradually throughout the day and eventually just stopped. I was thinking it was maybe something to do with the carbs.It started this morning but then there was a lot of burning plastic coming from a small box coming from above the carbs when I looked from the side of the engine. I thought the bike was going to go up in flames and turned the engine off. Surely there must be an inline fuse somewhere to stop this? Would really appreciate the help just to give the mechanic the heads up because as you know these steamers really get into your blood thanks tony.
you melted a coil due to a stuck transistor in the igniter unit (ecu)
been there with my 95
you'll need a new igniter and a new coil bring your wallet they aint cheap
start searching ebay for a used igniter .................................
anybody got any of the above parts hanging around,or point me in right direction I need meee steamer now :wheel
Quote from: Mustang on May 01, 2014, 07:16:51 PM
Quote from: ynotbiker on May 01, 2014, 06:11:04 PM
Hi all, havnt been around for a while. The bikes been out of action over the winter having work done. This was an engine out job. It wouldn't go into gear. The problem was a bent gear selecter so while it was out it near enough had a recon engine ie piston rings,valve stem seals,cylinder head gasket, carbs ultrasonically cleaned and also had a new rear shock fitted. Everything was hunky dory and I did about 500 trouble free miles over the last couple of weeks but its now back with the local mechanic. While I was out riding the bike was losing power gradually throughout the day and eventually just stopped. I was thinking it was maybe something to do with the carbs.It started this morning but then there was a lot of burning plastic coming from a small box coming from above the carbs when I looked from the side of the engine. I thought the bike was going to go up in flames and turned the engine off. Surely there must be an inline fuse somewhere to stop this? Would really appreciate the help just to give the mechanic the heads up because as you know these steamers really get into your blood thanks tony.
you melted a coil due to a stuck transistor in the igniter unit (ecu)
been there with my 95
you'll need a new igniter and a new coil bring your wallet they aint cheap
start searching ebay for a used igniter .................................
thanks mate for heads up on this,its but my mind at rest knowing what it is top man.
Quote from: ram33 on May 01, 2014, 06:50:25 PM
how much did you pay for the valve stem seals?
hi mate looking at work sheet they where £8.52 each so 12 of them £102 hope helps.
Quote from: ynotbiker on May 01, 2014, 08:02:24 PM
Quote from: ram33 on May 01, 2014, 06:50:25 PM
how much did you pay for the valve stem seals?
hi mate looking at work sheet they where £8.52 each so 12 of them £102 hope helps.
ive seen them for £24 for 4 -still expensive for waht they are :icon_sad:
search google for triumph cdi
there are a few for about £100 for trophy but not sure they are the same?
Quote from: ynotbiker on May 01, 2014, 07:56:28 PM
anybody got any of the above parts hanging around,or point me in right direction I need meee steamer now :wheel
I came across this opportunist on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TIGER-900-885-CDI-ECU-ECM-BLACK-BOX-/321388713620?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4ad4429694
He has coils too:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TIGER-900-885-IGNITION-COILS-/321391603121?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4ad46eadb1
but most people seem to replace the OE ones with Nology ones.
If you search: tiger 885 900 you'll find others.
That must have been :bug_eye would definitely had your pants on fire. I thought I had a spare but just had a rummage and it was something else, hope you find something soon.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 01, 2014, 11:37:48 PM
That must have been :bug_eye would definitely had your pants on fire. I thought I had a spare but just had a rummage and it was something else, hope you find something soon.
thank you anyway yes was a bit of a shock it nearly had a bucket of pond water over it....bugger just missed a ecu unit on ebay someone quick on the draw :ear :ear
hi all finding it hard to find igniter unit is there another triumph model I could look out for might have to buy new dont know how much they are. :bug_eye
You could Try Triumphant ( http://www.triumph-ant.co.uk/ ) or Niks Euro Bits ( nik-w on Ebay Uk). Sandy at Triumphant has everything, but he,s not the cheapest.
Then theirs national Triumph ( http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/ ) who may have spares. Most 3 cylinder Triumph ignitors for the Carbed bikes will work, but they will have different power curves and rev limits, and will be designed for different cams etc, but I have a spare one from a Trophy (1290060) if you really desperate.
You could also try these guys http://www.ignitech.cz/en/ who provide a home made replacement.
Have you googled the fault to see if its fixable?
If I am correct, you can replaced the output drivers on the ECU which are some form of switching transistor.
Have a look at my old post ( when I was Mimbox!)
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6678.msg44345.html#msg44345
Regards
Phil
I repaired the igniter on my 95 when it happened .
you need a good meter like a fluke ......
there are three separate transistors in the ecu .
one for each cylinder .
you need to find the bad one . thus the meter , the bad one will ohm out different on the base and emitter pins .
if you are not skilled at electronics repair or have to ask what is a base and emitter pin, well then you are pretty much done , and should keep looking for an igniter .
install the transistor wrong and it won't last long , not to mention melting coils isn't cheap.
the real trick involves being able to source the correct replacement transistor .
Have you tried http://www.triumphhinckleyparts.co.uk ? They have a lot of Tiger parts and seem quite cheap :icon_biggrin:
Hi all :icon_frown: , well im still bikeless. I did eventually get a new igniter and coil off ebay. Fitted them yesterday and the bike seemed ok but I could smell a bit of fuel coming from the exhaust. Off I went and got about 4 miles when no 2 coil got burnt out again Im not mechanically minded at all and it just seemed like a plug and play job. Anyone know what ive done wrong ??? Burning coils will turn out expensive.Any help would be much appreciated. NB couldn't find any faults in the wiring. Don't know about the big loom that runs right through the bike as it was well taped up from the manufacturers.cheers tony
the coils get there 12 volts from the ecu ,
the transistors in the ecu switch the 12 volts to the coils on and off just the same as a old set of Lucas points .
if it ran fine at first and then acted up you may have gotten a bad unit from ebay
a shorted wiring harness is likely NOT the problem but do check the leads plus and minus to coil #2 with an multi meter set to ohms and see if there is continuity between the leads and also check each lead for grounding to the frame by placing the neg lead of meter to frame and the red lead from meter to each wire you want to check . if your meter is digital you should see a 0 if no shorts .
before you do anything to bike you should check the "+" and "-" leads at coil 1, 2 ,and three and see what they show for volts .
volts should only be present when the transistors switch it on from the ecu .
you should see it switching on a multi meter while cranking engine with spark plugs unhooked to prevent starting .
check each set of 12 volt leads at all three coils.
if any of the above is over your skill level .................it's time to get it to a shop and let them fix it .
thank you mustang but the above is way beyond my capabilities. This afternoon I put another coil on , fool that I am, but never had a chance to take the bike for a ride because this time the bike starts if I keep the revs up but as soon as I stop revs it cuts out , so I didn't take it for a ride. Like you say I will have to get someone knowledgeable to look at it. It is quite hard round here to find someone as ive asked a few mechanics who have begged off saying they are too busy. I don't think they fix bikes anymore and only like charging people £160 for dropping oil and £50 to change your tyres. if anyone knows anyone in the northeast of England I would appreciate it don't care how much it costs. I know this sounds sad but ive never had a bike that feels part of me, and ive had a few so really want me steamer back on the road. I think most of you know what I mean.
got a man with a brain coming and meter one night this week fingers crossed. :eusa_dance
Glad to read that, I have a black box but I'm too far away to be of any help. Fingers crossed indeed.
Hi all the plot thickens. The man with the brain and the meter came and checked all the wiring and all was fine. I think what the biggest numty on the site did was plugged the old ecu unit in when I went for the ride and broke down. Because today he set off with the other one on with a small bottle off petrol tied to the handle bars used as a tank so that he could check if the coils heated up and they didn't.So when he left I put the tank back on thinking everything was hunky dory again. now everything is back together when I start the bike and put full lock on to the right the engine cuts out. maybe ive got an ignition problem now , I cant see that ive trapped any wires when I put the tank back on or if anythings tight . Again any help would be appreciated lads.
Hi There
Feeling your pain Bro.
Does it cut out regardless of which way the bars turn.? Cuts out instantly?, or coughs and splutters?.
If instant, likely to be wiring. Cable for ignition switch can fracture, and fail. and of course cutout switch, or any wiring to handlebar switches.
Any other electrical items stop when engine dies, lights indicators etc etc.
Sorry for the Spanish inquisition type questions, (of course, no-one expects the Spanish Inquisition)..... but remote diagnostics are not easy, as it were.
Regards
Phil
Sounds like a problem with the wires to the ignition switch.
Check the connector on the end of the loom that comes from the ignition switch, they can get dirty and corrode.
Then check the wires at the switch end, they can break.
Another possibility that Ive seen before, the cut off switch on the right bar. I've seen a situation where the switch plastic had cracked inside where the contacts moved enough to go open circuit for just a split second if any pressure was put on the bars. You can link out the two wires at the multi plug in the right hand fairing to check. Or it could even be just a poor connection in the multi plug, sometimes it takes very little stress on these to make a poor connection a failure.
well sorted the cutting out trapped choke cable,anyways think I bought bad igniter off ebay burnt out coil again :icon_confused: ive got a friend whos got a igniter off a 97 sprint st will this do the job for me. I hope so fed up now :icon_frown:
what cylinder melted the original coil ?
what coil melted with the ebay igniter , same cylinder ?
was coil 2 burnt out first time . When the lad came back last week he noticed that the right hand down exhaust pipe was only luke warm so we put the other ecu unit in the ebay one because I think 1st time I rode of with dodgy unit. He also changed all the plugs and new coil on number 2 but yesterday when I went out it was ok for 10 mile then was only running again on 2 cylinders. right hand down pipe luke warm again. so I am surmising before he comes again with his meter that its another coil. Hes bringing a ecu unit and coils off a 1997 sprint st will this be ok if this is the problem. Hope you understand all this.
Should work well enough for diagnosis purposes but I wouldn't give it big licks as the advance curve will be different.
Pissed that I'm not home at the moment :icon_sad:
hi all the lad has just left after looking over my bike. The ecu seems fine and the coils fine. Anyway he was looking round and found that the tank breather hose was blocked at the small metal spiggot. He tried to take the spiggot off and it snapped, half is still in the tank. He thinks the problem is that water build up is getting into the petrol because of blockage. The cause of the water build up is because a local mechanic who was going to work on my bike but didn't and just left it outside his workshop in the rain for a week so I just brought it home :nono. Anyone know what I can do about the piece of spiggot still left in the tank. Maybe a very thin drill to unblock it and then some radweld to attach the other bit of spiggot to it. Im hoping this water is the problem. The burnt coil was a dodgy ecu but has been sorted now. Will empty the tank in next few days do I have to clean carbs also, and hopefully will be back on my tiger and ready to go to Scotland to meet some faces of the site. :wheel
just twist a pc of wire up the drain hole , like a metal coat hanger wire, you should get a blob of crud out then the cap drain will work again
don't worry about the broken spigot the drain will function fine
carbs may need to just drain the float bowls which can be done without removing the carb bank .
was thinking this must be the problem because worked fine when lad run it with his small tank on.the spiggot will not clear with just wire its like white filler its solid had to drill out the small piece that came off ill be back soon thank you everybody for help.
Quote from: Mustang on May 21, 2014, 01:41:40 AM
just twist a pc of wire up the drain hole , like a metal coat hanger wire, you should get a blob of crud out then the cap drain will work again
don't worry about the broken spigot the drain will function fine
carbs may need to just drain the float bowls which can be done without removing the carb bank .
:iagree
Drain the tank and whip the petcock out to see if more crap has collected at the reserve filter, that way you get most of any remaining water out of the tank. half a can of "Profi Fuel Max" in a clean fill won't do any harm either.
Nice to read some better news for a change. You'll have learned a lot with this incident, especially about bike workshops :augie
on the wine now happy days :party . Iwas going to wait for me friend to come back off his hols but thought stuff it ill have a go myself. Emptied all the fuel out of the tank and cleared the breather hose with wire. I took the petrol filer cap off and that was full of shite under their aswell. I let the tank sit in the sun for a couple of hours and put it all back together. Fresh fuel and rode for about 15 miles. It was still a bit lumpy so I went back home and remembered I still had half a can of profi-fuel so put that in. 5 mile later me steamer came alive.Was still a bit lumpy now and again but I think that's just the profi fuel mixing with the fuel. I did a 110 miles . I nearly gave up on this bike and got into debt on a 800xc as my friends got one but he never leaves me on my steamer especially with the Maxton suspension on . Thanks again everybody. Bad head in the morning me thinks. :icon_salut:
Quote from: ynotbiker on May 21, 2014, 11:20:50 PM
Bad head in the morning me thinks. :icon_salut:
:thumbsup Take strong coffee, to get started, a few coughs and splutters, empty the waste tank, go for a blast and you might still be a bit lumpy but will be running strong again within 50 miles.
Simple formula but it seems to work with a few machines :icon_wink:
cheers sin will do :icon_mrgreen:also lamps a bit red and its a bit shaky might give the last of the profi-fuel a go. :wave