Has anyone made a conversion to tubeless tyres for the older (<2004) spoked-wheel Girly? What are the options? Would be simplest to find rims with the right number of spokes and just change the rims using the stock hub... I looked at the wheels on an explorer XC but different # spokes (on the front at least so I lost interest and didn't look at the rear). I suppose I could see if the BM GS tubeless spoked rims would fit...
Anyone have any advice in this regard?
Ian
Yes: http://www.triumphrat.net/tiger-workshop/46888-what-i-did-on-my-holidays-spoke-sealing.html
Done it on the 800 XC (http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13178.msg96765.html#msg96765), no real difference, changing rims is a very expensive option.
hmmmm.... I contacted woody's wheel works in colorado, USA and they suggested that for a T955i, the rims weren't designed to be sealed to tubeless and they do not recommend trying to seal them - it's not about the spoke sealing, rather about the bead shape on the rim. Or so they told me...
They recommend new tubeless rims (excel). And fairly pricey!!
If I had loved the tigger 800XC, I wouldn't do that. I rode a rental explorer xc off-road for about 30 km and blew a fork-seal on a bump that my 955 wouldn't even have noticed - that new bike is great in many ways but needs 50 mm more ground clearance, more suspension travel and way stiffer forks. All could be done aftermarket I suppose but it still wouldn't be bright orange with tiger stripes!!! So maybe I spend the thousand bucks (added on top of my new suspension etc) and keep the old cat going for another 5 years....
I do quite a bit of back-road and dirt road wandering and tubeless tyres would certainly be desirable...
I spoke (no pun intended) to Central Wheel Components here in the UK, they are one, if not the biggest and oldest wheel suppliers and builders. Their opinion was that the original DID rims, although not very well anodised in the first place, were sufficiently well shaped to run with a good quality tubeless tyre, even aired down by up to 25% and the rims they currently supply (Morad which is the same tooling used for the original Spanish make who's name I've forgotten) are even better. Same goes for the 800 XC rims which I asked about of course. If you are in doubt, I would suggest getting a newer set of rims laced up with SUS spokes and they should last a long time.
euro, hope you got your rims sorted. I want to tell you to search for my posts years ago in which I described my conversion to spokeless on my 2005 Tiger. It was simple to gob black permatex on each spoke nut (inside the wheel). I run Metzler Roadtec Z6 front and rear, super on the road, and they hold air better than tubes.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on August 27, 2014, 07:37:17 PM
I spoke (no pun intended) to Central Wheel Components here in the UK, they are one, if not the biggest and oldest wheel suppliers and builders. Their opinion was that the original DID rims, although not very well anodised in the first place, were sufficiently well shaped to run with a good quality tubeless tyre, even aired down by up to 25% and the rims they currently supply (Morad which is the same tooling used for the original Spanish make who's name I've forgotten) are even better. Same goes for the 800 XC rims which I asked about of course. If you are in doubt, I would suggest getting a newer set of rims laced up with SUS spokes and they should last a long time.
Just shows what they know.....nothing.
My 955 rims are by Behr. And it says on them that they're German. (http://adventureriderblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/dsf2429.jpg)
The 800XC comes with Excell rims which are Japanese. http://www.excel-rim.com/contacts.htm
One thing they did get right is that they, well the rear at least, has a tubeless fit to the tyre.
Might have been a bit misleading in my post. The Steamer originals were DID not done those yet. My XC rims are Excel, did those with the tape with no real issues.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on January 15, 2015, 12:40:49 PM
Might have been a bit misleading in my post. The Steamer originals were DID not done those yet. My XC rims are Excel, did those with the tape with no real issues.
Er, yes mate. I was going by the title of the thread. i.e. 2004 wheels.
Well, you know me :^_^ :new_all_coholic
My 2004 tiger's rims are also Behr. My understanding is that after VIN# something-or-other they changed to cast wheels and a different swingarm, changed the suspension and turned it halfway into a 1050 roadie... So there are some 2004 models that are quite a bit different - unless I'm completely wrong which is always possible.
Anyway - since in this cold snowy land winter seems forever, there's not that sense of urgency to get going with it. And I've been monkeying with my ktm... So now, late January, I am FINALLY getting round to ripping off the wheels to do... well something - prob'ly the expensive tubeless excel rims.
So.... How the hell does the brake disc come off the rear? It looks like its riveted on there? Why on gods green earth would they do that? That's the sort of inexplicable stuff that I'm completely used to with my guzzi... but their excuse is - they're Italian (sorry - hope no offence intended to anyone with Italian heritage - I love my quirky odd, frequently-frustrating and absolutely bellisimo italian bike)
Anyone have any ideas? Before I jump into it with my drill & dremel?
They're just normal socket head screws with caps. Without wishing to be rude, are you sure you have the experience and skill to do this?
Thank you very much Ian - for the information and for the kind words of support. In my defence, I had pried at a couple of the caps last night and they hadn't readily come off, and my garage is rather less brightly lit than it probably should be, the bike's relly dirty, and it was late... So rather than wasting time and being frustrated, I posted a query to the forum. Prematurely I suppose, and I apologize for wasting your time. But I thank you for your helpful reply. I did just now manage to remove the caps - 4 out of 5 were really stuck in there pretty well, took more force to remove than I might have been eager to apply without knowing...
Next up - seal the rims - first a decision to either stick with the Behr or switch to pricey excel rims. I'll be running DS tyres like TKC's or K60's...
Does anyone have good information about the Behr rims and the bead seal for tubeless ??
Ian Fleming
Quote from: eurobykz on January 22, 2015, 03:24:39 PM
4 out of 5 were really stuck in there pretty well, took more force to remove than I might have been eager to apply without knowing...
That'll be because they were Loctited at the factory.
If you have an M6 tap run that down the threaded hole and wire brush the residue from the bolt threads and reuse the bolts with some Blue Loctite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm
All this bollox you hear about having to replace the bolts is, well, bollox.
thanks very much blacktiger - yes the little caps were on very tight - red Loctite... cleaned up, disc removed etc. I will of course use blue (not red) Loctite when I put them back. And I do agree, it seems a bit OTT to replace the bolts...
Lesson learned about working on a clean bike with good light and earlier in the evening - but I had been watching a hockey game earlier of course...