Hi
Just getting my insurance write off 06 back on the road and I have a few general questions
1/ Oil level is checked by screwing the dipstick all the way in as opposed to just sitting it on top of the threads?
2/ My top shock bush seems a bit sloppy (3-4mm up/down movement at the shock) - I cant seem to find a part number for the top shock bearing - can someone suggest a source?
3/ Is vibration through the bars above 6000 normal? are bar end weights stock - mine came with some Italian ones on the bent bars the bike came with?
4/ I have to fibreglass the inside of the triumph panniers to repair a big crack in each lid - will polyester resin stick to the plastic ok?
5/ The stock screen puts my helmet in dirty air unless I sit bolt upright - are shorter screens available or has anyone trimmed their stock screen down?
many thanks
Mark
Some answers,
1/ Yes that's the correct method, some use oil, some don't.
2/ Can't help, but was I you that would be on my list of changes, an aftermarket shock makes a world of difference.
3/ Yep
4/ No Idea
5/ This you could write books on, screens and the variations vol6, Sports screens are available but only secondhand, most people get by on an MRA Vario screen, but it's personal what works for you.
The Search button will help you here.
Johns covered all the angles but the vibe thing pheww that's a can of worms because my darling wife thinks it's great fun to take the Mickey out of me when we are riding along and I hold the left bar end with my fore finger and thumb to check the vibes.
I get little vibration from mine at any speed but I need to be over 8 before I can feel is grafting and I've found the two reasons are the rear chain which has to be set right in other words not like it says in the book because that's wrong!!! and the other is the fuel map,it must have been 3 years ago ish Bixxer will remember I had a map blown into the bike 2010 ish?? on the way home jeeze it was fantastic felt like it had another 20hp which was great for riding around the block not much good for a 500 mile day because of the vibes.
The problem with the map is you either educate yourself like Bixxer or MM or do what I do with a dealer and you'll get just as much out of the bike with a decent quality after market shock which is another can of worms.
Thanks for the answers guys
I'll pull the shock out and have a look at the bush
I'm sure the bike needs a complete tune as well
This morning I had the bike out warming up, helmet on, buddy waiting and ooooh what's that wet patch on the ground under the right hand cylinder - smells like petrol....
fook - no ride for the Tiger (fortunately for me I have another bike) - looks like the fuel line from the right hand wing to the fuel pump got crimped a bit when the bike hit the ground - hadn't noticed it before but then yesterday was the first time that I filled it right up
Is it a special type of hose?
No nothing special except it must be ethanol proof
Quote from: John Stenhouse on October 05, 2014, 01:38:06 PM
No nothing special except it must be ethanol proof
Thanks for the response John
The polyester resin should stick fine to the plastic as long as it is scuffed good.
Quote from: NortonCharlie on October 08, 2014, 07:00:39 PM
The polyester resin should stick fine to the plastic as long as it is scuffed good.
Thanks for that _ need to have a play at fixing the rooted pannier lids
Well I finally got the Tiger back on the road and I took it for a decent ride today. I'm really really happy with it
Its not bland like the vstrom and tdm900 I rode and is good on gas and great on dirt roads.
Thanks guys all for the help in getting it this far
(http://webcoda.com/images/bike/IMG_9817.JPG)
Waihi Falls
(http://webcoda.com/images/bike/IMG_9836.JPG)
Sweet mustang in Ekatahuna
(http://webcoda.com/images/bike/IMG_9838.JPG)
Found some stunning new roads east of Ekatahuna
(http://webcoda.com/images/bike/IMG_9841.JPG)
That Mustang looked nice
We are going to need more photo of where you ride .... And that mustang!
Thanks for the comments guys - I'm lucky to have some awesome unpopulated areas to ride in within an hour or so of where I live
a quick question - I pulled the shock out today as the top mount had 2-4mm slop in it. The rubber bushing seems ok so the slop must be in the bolt to bush - as though the bolt wasn't tight enough to clamp the top bush inner shaft tightly in the frame mount and yet the bolt seemed tight enough.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Also are there 24 rollers in the bottom shock bearing?
If I remove the swingarm bolt should the swingarm come out? (I loosened the rear engine mounts in case it was crimping the frame in a bit) it seems pretty tight
Many thanks
Mark
I'd put the shock back in and check where the slack is,as for the number of rollers can't help just looked at my old original shock and several have dropped out while stored away :icon_redface: but if you have any doubts just have a new one pressed in.
Not a Girly person but general roller bearing comment is that the rulers should all look straight with no gap more than 0.1mm when all pushed up together for that size range
Thanks for the answers guys.
Trying to remove the swingarm to grease/check the bearings.....
bike on centerstand, remove wheel and shock and swingarm bolt and the swingarm is still tightly held
I decided to loosen the rear engine mounts to allow the frame to spring open a little except you have to take off the footpeg hangers to get to the lower bolts and the foottpeg hanger bolts hold the center stand on which the bike is sitting on :BangHead
an hour later the rear of the bike is supported by a health and safety inspectors nightmare that includes concrete blocks, car axle stands, some pipe from and old set of bunks and an old fork stanchion...
As soon as I loosened one lower engine mount the swingarm came free and while it was about time for new grease (18000mls) everything was in really good condition so it all worked out ok but what a lot of dicking about....
Hi
I brought a cable, downloaded and installed the latest version of TuneEcu onto my windows 8 laptop and used it to upload the TOR (10173) map onto my bike (06 with high vin no).
What I seem unable to do it reset the tps. the tps option under the ecu heading is greyed out and I'm also unable to click any of the items on the left of the screen such as the fan test etc as they are also greyed out.
I get the green communication link up and if the engines running I can see the revs,temp,tps settings change.
I'm confused - am I missing something obvious?
cheers
Mark
(http://webcoda.com/images/bike/IMG_9897.JPG)
OT nice vista, where is that?
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on November 22, 2014, 12:19:25 PM
OT nice vista, where is that?
Hi
That's taken from Peep-O'Day Rd which is in the Manawatu region of the North Island of New Zealand
http://goo.gl/maps/D4MMz
Thought it looked familiar, passed that way going from Rotarua to Palmerston North many years ago :thumbsup
Try going to TEST screen.
Run engine to at least 82C before downloading map or carrying out adjustments as sometimes they will not take.
Just a thought.......is it a touch screen you are using?
:new_all_coholic Put the drink down Nige, you're not reading right. The mapping should only be done with the engine off but ign on. Battery must be tip top or on a booster, the temp limitation applies to some of the adjustments and trims. Some of the recent work I've done suggests that any of the FTDI cables will work as long as you force your computer to load the correct drivers from the FTDI website. Unfortunately, that's easier said than done as I found while at CC's house.
@Chris, I still haven't tried your cable on my XP laptop as it needs a new keyboard, as soon as I have one I'll get on it.
Reads correct now.....Napoleon mixed up the worms.....Honesht.