Hello,
i am new here and have been searching how to switch my 95 steamer wheels for tubeless.
i found that mustang has used trophy wheels with the original fork tube and that's the route that i would like.
BUT i have found some daytona 1000 wheels for a quarter of the price than uses trophy rims.... so is it possible to make them fit?
i have seen a picture of a steamer with trident wheels that i believe are the same as the daytona 1000's. the rear should be a straight fit but how about the front in combination with the original forktube ?
and wil al disc's fit to those wheels?
Welcome mate :thumbsup Until someone comes along with some input, you might like to look at the various parts diagrams here:
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/section.php/4276/1/parts_locator?gclid=CJPa3KXs5sECFfLJtAodnEkA8g
It's simple enough, compare the part numbers from the Trophy wheels, Daytona wheels, forks, brakes etc and you'll be in a position to judge for yourself.
Or you could just convert your existing rims to use tubeless tyres. Many threads hereabouts on the several ways to do it. I did it last winter on my '96 and have covered 10,000+ trouble free kilometres.
I went for the trophy rims for the width and the brake rotors
180/190 rears with 120 -17 up front and larger rotors
tubeless was just an added perk .
Do you mean the original Daytona wheels like these?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP3616.jpg)
If yes, they will fit, these are Trident wheels fitted to Steamer number 1, same as the Daytona wheels.
Only thing to note is the rear wheel is 18 inch diameter, so tyre choice is not so good compared to the 17 inch Trophy wheels, and also will lift the back end even higher!
The discs etc are the same as fitted to the Trophy so you can follow Mustangs guide to fitting them if you go that way.
nice !!
ok i'll go that route. its an old bike with lots of km's so don't want to spend to much money, and the trident rims are much cheaper.
do you know if i can fit the standard non floating discs from the tiger...? i just have put new discs on the standard tiger wheels...
main goal is going tubeless with the benefit of quicker steering.
thanks for all the replies !
Quote from: wp75 on November 09, 2014, 09:18:12 PM
do you know if i can fit the standard non floating discs from the tiger...?
won't fit ...different bolt pattern
ok thanks !
Keep us up to date with your progress.
I will do. will take some time because i have just got new tires. planning to buy the needed parts over a period of time and take the time to make it all fit.
the trident rims are solid, found out that the daytone rims are hollow = less weight!
find this site, nice !! http://trimotorevival.blogspot.nl/2014/08/six-spoke-wheels.html‏
was reading it wrong, hollow spokes are the new 96 trophy types..
Hello it has been some time but this thread is not dead...yet...
had to adress some other problems over winter: sump gasket replaced, not an easy task on an old bike with rusted bolts everywhere replaced a lot of bolts with stainless. also replaced the valve cover gasked and adjusted the valves. there were some oil leaks from both gaskets. think its overpressure from oil piston ring wear as the tiger uses quite a lot of oil with just over 150.000km. so next winter I am gonna look into that. In time i have purchased some wheels from a 1000 daytona and discs from a 900 sprint. So now I am thinking about the wheel spacers.
I let you know when there is some progres.
Mustang: As I understand the Tiger 17mm axle drives freely in the Daytona wheel and is only supported by the spacers.
Well... had a flat early oktober so that was a forced starting point for the conversion. The first pic shows the new wheels.
I decided to change the bearings of the front wheel - for the 20mm axle - with bearings that are used for the spoked wheels so there is no need for machined spacers. now i can just make some spacers from tube and if it works i will have the original spacer and speedo machined to the correct length. I will use an old gps unit for speed for now and when the original speedo is in il will calibrate the meter with some markings.
I have new bearing spacer installed for the reduced inner bearing size. the original was to wide and touched the seal of the bearing.
Measured the centre of the wheel and than made the spacers the correct length.
One point of concern: I think i kept the inner bearing spacer a bit to wide as the bearing at the speedo side it to far out of his housing. the new bearings are 2mm wider, but it is more out then that. solution is to get the bearing out and cut the spacer but at this point I just want to get the wheels in... should be fine, the bearing sits tight enough.
pic of the new wheels
new bearings in
sorry for the crappy Phone pics, I use an old nokia as a radio in the garage so I took the pictures with it
new wheel in, spacers fitted
this is the Original speedo that I will machine. only concern is the piece with the slots, need to get some material of that also I think. Should be tricky with the rad side.
rear wheel is easy, fits right in. also fitted new bearings and renewed the brake pads and fluid.
used new-to-me brake discs on both wheels.
managed to find all the brake bolts used. happy with that as one new brake bolt is 8 euro ! now payed 2 euro each.
you can't use the old bolts, way to short.
made some brackets for the calipers from some steel plate.
Good for you. Looking forward to seeing the end result.
here is how it looks today.
the bike steers perfect on the little roads, really like my old trophy.
the only downside is that once I get above 100kph (ca 80mph) the bike keeps straight but whenI give the handlebar just a little push, the front wobble's really scary.
since i have experienced that i have flipped the rear axle so the weigt is evenly. but it is still pretty nervous at speed.
I am thinking about a steering damper... my old bmw r850r (same tire size) also used to have one.
for now I am getting the front tyre re-balanced and measure the inline-ness with the rear.
Anyone has any experience with this after a wheel conversion ?
pull the forks up 25mm thru the yokes and add some preload to rear shock
get some weight on the steamers already light front end
and sometimes it comes down to your tire choice causing the wobble :nod
:iagree tyre pressures can also make a lot of difference, I wouldn't even consider a steering damper at this stage if at all. This has been done more than once, so there is plenty of experience to rely on.
Tyres could be a thing... got an old contisport at the rear that is pretty square and a good sportattack2 at the front. There is no sportattack rear available in this size so I want to change to new set of tyre asap. I have 2.5bar at the rear and have had 2 and 2,25 bar at the front. Will set it now at 2,5.
I have also ridden it whith the rear in normal position, the rear sits about 30mm higher than the front then. isn'tt that the same effect as adjusting the jokes lower?
I have not ridden it a with full tank yet.... will fill her up tomorrow, that would give some weigth
I have just been riding to work today, 60km at 120kph. getting used to it, it just reacts really quick now: the bike holds a straight line and it only wobbles when I push the steering. that is the only thing, otherwise is behaves beautiful.
got the tire pressure at 2.5 at the front and 2.7 at the rear and removed my topcase. tank not full yet.
I am trying tot rememeber how my old 900 trophy behaved on the freeway... I can't believe it had the same quicl reaction....
I am still thinking about that steering damper, just as a backup. dont want to get a tankslapper.
tommorow I will try it with the rear axle in normal position to get some weight at the front and because I hate the look of the rear now. looks like the bike has shrunk.
Thanks for all the feedback, appreciate it.
Use a stabilizer to reduce operator fatigue
not fix a wobble
have you checked your triple tree bearings?
Having done the same with my 955 12 years ago it takes a great deal of tinkering to get things right.
that stabilizer crossed my mind yesterday, riding home and wondering what it could be: there is a lof of flex in the forks.
I am going to make one.
Did you do anything with the forks when you had them off? :icon_scratch:
It may be a bit obvious but, did you remember to tighten the spindle and clamp bolts? it can happen :icon_redface:
You will have to excuse me if I have a bit of a chuckle about this but you 19" wheel brigade have no idea what it's like going to a 17" I nearly had a heart attack and it took me some time to pluck the courage up to go from Michelin Road 02 to a Road Smart which turned even quicker.
It'll have nothing to do with anything just a culture shock about how quick the bike will turn and the fork springs/oil/quantity will need some tinkering with and the harder the front end lets you ride means the rear shock will need sorting as well.
Quote from: Chris Canning on November 06, 2015, 02:26:06 PM
You will have to excuse me if I have a bit of a chuckle about this but you 19" wheel brigade have no idea what it's like going to a 17"
+1. Even though I only had the Steamer for a season and a half, I had got used to its handling 'differences' with that bigger front wheel; switching to the Roadie with 17"ers at both ends reminded me very quickly of how effortless it can be to go through the twisty bits on the road.
Well i have been riding for a few days now with this setup. I dont think anything is wrong, it justso much more flickable. I think it is indeed just a culture shock.
Have the rear axle back in high position, set the rear suspension harder and filled up. It is ok i think, just need to get used to it.
well I have been trying lots of things... turns out to be... see the pic, steering stem bearings..
the wobble got worse so is was checking everything.
also found a broken tube from the fairing frame so also had to fix that.
also lots of cables that had no more isolation.
I did a lot of head scratching with Rybes when he had what appeared to be worn head bearings. We tried various combinations of bearing (new and used) and his prime stem and a spare. No matter what we did we couldn't get rid of the play. In desperation he bought a set of much more expensive bearings from Triumph rather than Ebay. No more play. The pattern bearings were actually a rather loose fit on the stem, not a light press fit as they should have been.
Therein lies a lesson.....
thanks bixxer bob,
i have just ordered some Original bearings. hope this will fix it.
ik have set the current bearings really tight and the wobbling is significant less.
Not so tight that the steering is tightening up I hope??? :bug_eye
tighter than i would like so that means to me that problem lies in the current bearings as it makes the wobbling less.
With Rybes, the play was between the bearing inner and the stem, not the adjustment of the bearings themelves. The bearings should be tight enough to need tapping onto the stem, in Rybes case they would push on by hand. It didn't feel like there as any play until the whole thing was assembled, then it was apparent. That's why it took us so long to find it, e kept looking at the adjustment rather than the fit on the stem.