Just got my 2006 Tiger back together after a Valve check, new plugs and clean air filter. All Valves were in specs. Couple intakes were on the tighter end so I left them as is. With 30K miles I was wondering if they will change any more. My experience on other bikes is as that get more miles on them the valves tend to stabilize.
Also got a heated Jacket from Cycle Gear. Sedici jacket and controller for 127 bucks. Looks like quality stuff. Hoping to reduce my layer for commuting.
they may or may not change ..................
but it is good practice to check them at req'd intervals , ie every 12k
there won't be any signs with poor running conditions right up until they go zero clearance .
I wouldn't run anything electrical for accessories on a Girly without being able to monitor the voltage output of stator .......................... :bug_eye
Any Idea how many watts are available from the Tiger 955I?
The 955's are 40 amp alternators if IIRC.....................so 480 watts , but a good chunk of that is req'd for the ecu and lights .
I read a test where they said you need an alternator that puts out over 300 watts. They ran the jacket (77 watts) and with a 250 watt alternator anything under 3K RPM was in a negative state. Also with a 200 and 250 watt alternator there was little warmth from the jacket.
oh the suit will work fine on the Girly , myself I would get a good quality volt meter installed on the dash though . just to keep track of things .
that battery needs to be getting 13 volt + from the stator 14.xx is even better
I run a Gerbings heated jacket and gloves without any real issue. They're maybe a bit of power suck when it's slow going (stop & go), but if you pay attention to your bike, I'm sure you'd know if the time comes to turn off the heat and generate some energy. I tend to keep my rpms up a bit when I run the heat. I think it helps. A Datel installation where the switch for heated grips goes is on my to-do list. FYI- I'm running my bike with all LED lights so I've shaved some watts off, but if power is ever an issue for you, one more option would be to pull one of the headlight bulbs (or more easily the fuse probably) if heat's more important than light. That'd save you quite a few watts.
If you use the Oxford heated grips, they have an auto off function if the voltage drops, can't remember what the set point was but it does work as I had the ones on my Roadie wired direct (lazy git) and it prevented a no go on more than one occasion.
I use a DIY heated vest that I have had for years.It has never given me any trouble with any of the bikes that I have used it on,even an MZ ETZ250 East German two-smoke.I do tend to switch it off in 30mph limits and also for the last couple of miles of any journey just in case the battery is getting low.
:iagree good advice.
I also try :icon_rolleyes: to remember to switch off my grips a few miles before the destination.
I have a heated jacket and gloves that I run on occasion. No problem when I'm running, but at lights, it is draining the battery. I'll be installing led headlights this weekend, which should same me 30-40 wasted. I'm also running aux lights and charging stuff at the same time.
What kind of temps are you guys doing with the heated gear. Snow and ice have an effect on that decision I realize.
Finally the snow has melted and I got a chance to use the heated jacket. It work better then I expected. 40 degrees and I had it on Medium and I had plenty at 60 MPH. Got in town and had to shut it off. Should have had this when I did Alaska and the Haul road!