Esteemed forum members,
When attempting to grease rear suspension link on my "96 steamer I find that the upper grease nipple on the drag link is inaccessible as the exhaust crossover pipe is located in such a way as to block the grease gun couping. Question: is it necessary to remove both left & right sections containing the crossover or may one side be sufficient to gain access? While in there I plan to change the Zerk fitting from straight to angled in order to gain access w/out removing exhaust. What threads might the Zerk fitting be?
Bert
I find that jacking up the ass end and letting the wheel hang sometimes gives just enough room to get a flexible hose on it :bad
Quote from: Mustang on May 04, 2015, 07:16:40 PM
I find that jacking up the ass end and letting the wheel hang sometimes gives just enough room to get a flexible hose on it :bad
Mustang,
My bike is on center stand and the rear wheel is clear of the ground by 1/2" and the grease nipple is coyly hiding behind the exhaust crossover. I had better start taking the exhaust system apart and install an angled zerk fitting. Any information in zerk fitting threads tapered or straight?
Bert
I think it's a 1/8" BSPT or NPTT at a push but I'd have to check that to be sure.
shock mount on my TBS draglink was greased regularly via the grease point, and still ended up looking like this...
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7728/17196936979_80a25754f8_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/scCNer)2015-04-30 001 (https://flic.kr/p/scCNer) by GUZZINEIL (https://www.flickr.com/people/22730494@N06/), on Flickr
I think the best way is to remove the bolt and regrease the bearing annually rather than relying on the nipple :icon_mrgreen: i think the grease must go hard near the entry point then any fresh grease just gets diverted via the easiest path...
:iagree unless start of with known good condition and then maintain it, who knits when it was greased prior to you taking ownership.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 05, 2015, 10:56:34 PM
:iagree unless start of with known good condition and then maintain it, who knits when it was greased prior to you taking ownership.
In the case of the upper drag link grease fitting being rendered inaccessible by the exhaust crossover pipe I would think never being lubricated is the likely scenario.
Odd! - I greased the suspension linkage on my 95 today, the nipple on the link next to the crossover pipe is a standard straight type and pointed downwards, so no trouble to grease any of them :icon_scratch:
Either I'm lucky or you're not :^_^
:iagree
Same as mine JD, never had a problem getting the grease gun onto it.
I suppose it's possible that the pivot block could be from another model?
Mine was blocked by the exhaust crossover. I fitted a 45 degree nipple to get around the problem, but I do not know the thread,a mate supplied it, he said it was just industry standard fitting.
I pulled the linkage off my 93 today. The shock bearing is completely knackered, with the tube between the bearing and the mounting bolt heavily scored by the bearing needles . The seals are non-existent! Ugly, really. So I ripped out the bolt and tube from my 94 donor bike. The bearing is shot and the tube is absolutely trashed. I wonder if this is a bit of a weak point, given both bearings are stuffed. Anyone else had this experience?
Yep, think it was at approx 30,000 miles.
Yes. Sadly many don't pay enough attention to suspension linkages. With straight bush type you get away with not causing so much damage because the softer metal of the bush and the larger contact area means the harder pins don't get damaged so easily and is a slower process.
The very hard rollers do damage much quicker and more severely when they seize up due to lack of lubrication.
There's nothing inherently wrong with the roller bearing design, arguably it can last a lot longer than a closed bush type but only if it gets lubricated now and again, 'nuff said. Some owners and mechanics, like the PO of your bike and mine, who seem to think grease nipples on suspension are like mens nipples I.e. redundant.
Thanks, Gav. Jesus, that's pretty early. It seems it is really something to keep an eye on!
Thanks, also to Sin. Nice info. Although I don't reckon my nipples are redundant!!!! In fact.......
BTW, I reckon it is unreal to get quality info from all over the world on this site. Fantastic!!!!!!
Girly bottom bushes are the same.... :icon_rolleyes:
Bottom bushes........nipples....... where is this thread going?? :icon_wink: :ImaPoser
Quote from: nickjtc on May 18, 2015, 06:07:48 PM
Bottom bushes........nipples....... where is this thread going?? :icon_wink: :ImaPoser
just you watch... Sin will be along soon :nod
Time to think about taking it all apart next winter. Easy job if the bike is cleaned. You very likely will need new bearings there, & the others will probably be a little rough too. Seals also. Jobbers or bearing specialty shops should be able to get most parts much cheaper than the dealers. Check out the chain sliders for replacement at that time too. Might as well get all new grease nipples too.
If using blocks under the engine, you can adjust pressure on the swing arm (for removal/fitting) by using a few boards or a small jack under the rear wheel to raise & lower the wheel. You will need the centre stand free to remove its pivot bolt.
I usually take mine apart every second year for inspection & full washing of the old grease, alternating with the forks & steering head bearings. Heavy use in muddy gravel backroads necessitated a higher level of maintenance.
Now on the second set of suspension bearings, (probably needed from over-greasing & popping some seals) changed out at 86,000km in 2008. Now at 135,000+ & in semi retirement ... pavement only now.
Make sure the area is well washed before hand. Grease & mud mixed make for a messy shop. This would be the one time a pressure washer might be recommended as you will be disassembling soon after.
Hi All.
I have already posted this photo as part of my thread on "Link-pipe". It may be useful here, too, for someone who encounters my same problem.
I could not separate the linkpipe to remove it. Therefore I could not withdraw the suspension link to frame mounting bolt. I found that you can:
- undo the lower shock mount and the dog-bone mount
- pull the shock to one side
- slide the suspension link upwards beside the shock itself
- pull the exhaust link-pipe as a unit
Hope this is useful.