I have had a couple of issues when my '04 Girly dies on me, it seems to be an electrical fault and only seems to have started happening recently when it's lovely warm weather and I'm in stop/start traffic in town when she's properly warmed up.
It has happened a few times when in that environment when it loses all power completely, the engine management light and fuel light come on at the same time and it coasts to a halt. Stopping for a second then restarting it can result in it springing back into life and working again without having apparently done anything to 'fix' it. On the more extreme (and recent occasions though) it has just gone a few hundred yards then done the same thing again. The problem is that after a few starts with the starter motor it then kills the battery and I need a jumpstart (she's on charge outside my house as I type this). It almost seems like there's just not enough electrical juice in the system to keep it ticking over when idling once it's started doing this.
I was wondering if it might be something to do with the sidestand cutout, I've tried cleaning the piston and it seemed to make a difference at first but it's just started again.
I'm not sure if it's my imagination on occasions but it sometimes seems to stutter or lose power when doing mid range speeds before runnign fine again but that might just be paranoia setting in on my part!
Any ideas people?
ignition pickup sensor failure causes that exact scenario on a carbed tiger ,
what are the codes that come up on the
I had a similar random fault with the ignition switch, a common fault, the soldering is not to good underneath the switch, good luck.
Just to complicate things mine was the same after a long run and it got hot,thought was the R/R and it ended up the stepper motor.
If it has thrown the EML chances are it will log the fault, what fault code do you have?
Just as an offshoot, try the main switch connections at the switch and the loom, check the alternator phase wires (yellow x3) for condition and volts. At least 45vac @ 4000rpm.
Cheers guys - looks like I'm going to have to invest in a diagnostic cable to delve deeper into this since I am only recently acquainted with these newfangled ECU thingies. I'll get back to you all in due course...
HAd fully charged it, left it a couple of days. Went to fire it up, she turned over several times but no joy so rather than flatten the battery or feck around I've called out the RAC as my insurance covers this. Hopefully he can give me the fault code/s. Ironically I have a cable newly arrived from Lonelec waiting at the sorting office to be collected.
I may well be seeking your continued collective wisdom.
Right...
I've a few fault codes that came up...
PO462 Fuel level sensor A
PO230 Fuel pump primary circuit
P1231 - Main dealer specific
PO135 - O2 Sensor (this may be a non-issue I appreciate as I understand 'They all do that Sir!'
Following this up we isolated the electrical supply and found nowt wrong with that, power up to the connector from the bike. So it's not the wiring or the relay - amIright?
Logic therefore dictates that it's the fuel pump itself. A little light percussive maintenance (hitting it a few times with a socket set) got it running but slightly snatchily as if the fuelling was not quite up to the job (might explain the hesitation I mentioned in my first post). Then she stopped, was quickly started again but then stopped once more, the same symptoms I had over the past couple of weeks with just increasing regularity.
Does the collective massive out there in Tiger Triple land agree that I need to replace the fuel pump?
If so, I'm only half handy with a spanner but is it a comparatively straighforward job that just requires a lot of dismantling before getting to the pump? I have a Haynes Book of Lies to help me along, am pretty methodical and have just ordered a second hand pump from eBay which should be with me by the end of the week. I assume that I need a new gasket too. Or is this summat best left to the professionals in which case I'll get my local motorcycle mechanic to collect it and the pump and do it for me?
I'm hoping this is just my bike's way of testing my devotion to her!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated though people.
Can't speak specifically about Girly's but my experience of many different electric fuel pumps is that is always been an electrical side failure. Have you tried a direct electrical supply to eliminate other items in the circuit?
Cheers Sin, yep connected multimeter to the wiring loom side of the pump electrical input and the RAC man felt that the electrical circuit to the pump was fine and dandy.
It may have tested fine when stationary, but could be a connection breaking down when in motion,(It does also still sound like the the crank sensor could be an option).
I would try looking at the main relay under the saddle,,,,,the one that goes 'click' a few seconds after the key is switched off.
Check battery connections and main fuse for heat discolouration while you are there.
Fuel pump is on a plate in the side of the tank, it does require a fair bit of dismantling to get to but is reasonably straight forward. Best to start with an empty tank though.
Could be a totally bum steer but ages ago my 885i would stop running for no apparent reason usually when warm then start up again on the button even on the move...eventually it gave in completely and I thought the battery was fooked so put a new one on... still wouldn't play so left it at the dealers I was visiting at the time.
They got it going but couldn't replicate the fault and it didn't show up any codes...anyway, rode it home and it died again. I traced the fault to the wiring loom from the clutch switch did a fix and all`s been good ever since, still cant figure out how though :^_^
Fuel pump out is easy enough, I think I did a how to for it, if not I'll do it later. Gasket is reusable just be careful with it, and make sure the tank is nearly empty :bug_eye
As for the dying when hot, mine started doing it in France (35 deg C plus) but restarted ok. Was mainly when dropping to tickover at junctions. Probably sticky IACV and / or TB balance, as gentle pressure on the throttle (not even cracking it open a touch) was enough to keep it going. If crank sensor it won't restart until cooled down.
Charging system? Hot weather? Fan kicking in?
Had similar fault codes and stalls at traffic lights on hot days last summer when riding through traffic and it was the regrec, fault only seemed to show when the bike was hot, voltage looked fine on start up but dropped dramatically when the bike was hot.
In my case at least, reg/rec is fine, changed to MOSFET last year and never looked back, always around the 14.3v mark. I think a TB balance will help enormously.
Quote from: HockleyBoy on July 01, 2015, 02:42:43 PM
Charging system? Hot weather? Fan kicking in?
Had similar fault codes and stalls at traffic lights on hot days last summer when riding through traffic and it was the regrec, fault only seemed to show when the bike was hot, voltage looked fine on start up but dropped dramatically when the bike was hot.
Well knowing my luck it's both doing the same thing at the same time!
Fuel pump arrived from a breakers yesterday so it's one of my weekend things to do. Does anyone have any experience of removing and replacing one whilst leaving the tank in situ? If I drain the fuek and just lift the rear of the tank or will I have to take the bugger off?
Take it off, not enough clearnce between the frame rail and the tank.............ah re read, yes could be done in situ but as you will have had to remove all the bolts to do that anyway why have a fiddle when if you pu a blanket or sheet down you can lift it off easy.
Most maintenance needs the tank off, and once gone everything is easy to get at (even the plugs if you use the tool in the toolkit which you knew about, didn't you? :icon_rolleyes:) so why not learn now. Ten minutes tops once you've done it a couple of times.
Always interesting watching someone trying wriggle :icon_biggrin: and trying to make a simple job very difficult even though they are thinking the opposite.
When I lift my tank the biggest hassle is the Bagster tank cover :icon_sad:
Two things don't try and lift the tank with it half full of fuel because that will be a hernia and don't leave the tank off the bike for a week because they distort over time :icon_scratch:
Thanks people I had kind of guessed that it may be less trouble to remove the tank first. I won't be lazy and will do it tomorrow.
Update.... I replaced the fuel pump and put her all back together again, took her out for a spin and she ran like a dream for 30 miles or so then stopped. Fuelling problems again. Is it possible that I've just bought a dud replacement pump or that it's packed up after running for a short time. I did get it from a breakers via eBay.
When it dies , does it have spark?
Aha. After much messing about the fault was traced back to a simple bunch of corroded wires at the rear of the relay block which meant that there was so much resistance in the wiring that the pump wasn't receiving a consistent voltage. I love the fact that it was so simple ( and cheap) to rectify. Not quite so impressed at doing it in a torrential downpour though.
Hey nik_the_brief !! Glad ya finally found yer prob :thumbsup
next time yer pullin Tigger apart coat yer contacts with Dielectric Grease as it works on every plug, fuse and bulb contact to help stop the corrosion :thumbsup
hope this helps
KK
It's nearly always something simple. Finding it however...... :icon_rolleyes: