My Tiger 2001 has a burring sound at rpm approx 2000-2500. I have located it to the metal plate on the exhaust, that plate that protects the passenger's leg from heat. If I press it slightly, the sound disappears.
My mechanic says it's a hassle to fix because he'd had to remove and remake some stainless steel rivets. I doubt it would take more than 20 minutes but hey I'm not an expert.
The exhaust has a cracking sound when revving down, which someone said means it's a nonfactory one but still Triumph.
I'm thinking I can't be the only one with this burrrrrrrr?
Stainless rivets are a but harder to do, don't be tempted to use standard alloy ones, they won't last 5 mins.
It might be worth checking to see if you have any "extra" hooks drilled in the end can.
Hooks or holes???
I had this, many moons ago. The rivets are a bugger to drill out because the tail is left in the centre and is quite hard. It's worth doing though because I replaced them with self-tapping screws and spire clips ( "U" nuts) so it's easy to whip off to clean behind it.
Hehe I knew I wouldn't be the only one.
Drilling out rivets is a bit over my head, I'm afraid. How long time would it take a good Triumph mechanic to do that? I ask because I'd pay him per minute/hour.
What about finding some heat-resistant rubber formed into a wedge which I press in between the two metal parts to stop it from burring?
Give the bike shop a miss; go to a light engineering company and look helpless. Engineers like to show off, like as not they'll drill all three out for you for the price of a drink. Order a pack of spire clips and some stainless steel self tapping screws and you're good to go.
With any luck they'll do that for you too!
Thanks man. I'm sorry but I don't know what a light engineering company is or how to find one. Perhaps it's a translation thing. I did google spire clips, but since I don't know how that protection plate should be fitted in general, I don't see how it would be fitted using such slips and screws.
Looking helpless is going to be easy. :augie
It's where you go to have lights engineered
I come across this problem most days 'It's an easy job mister' 'In that case why don't do it yourself' errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :icon_redface:
It's only easy when you know how,it's not about how long it will take it's about how many F ups that person has had to go through to learn what he/she knows that's what you are paying for :icon_wink:
I never heard of a place you go to have lights engineered! Don't you just buy a lamp in a shop and DONE?
Chris Canning, that's funny and true.
Does anyone have a photo of how it looks when that heat plate is removed? The service manual is not very clear:
thats about how it looks................three metal standoffs with a hole in them for the rivet ,welded to the can :nod
steamer can has 4 .......................
There is just a circular hole on top of each, and no way to place stuff inside? I thought one would fit something like these spire thingies inside the "standoff"?
http://www.frost.co.uk/sheet-metal-screws-and-j-nuts-400-pieces.html
you can
the standoffs are just bent tin (sheet metal)
Doesn't cost anything to cost my mechanic for a quote, I guess.
I actually found a shop selling ALL kinds of screws and nuts etc. I can drive there. Which model and dimension of spire clips should I get, and dimensions and head of the screws?
The ones that fit your hole
Can you just kink the shield to stop it from buzzing?
Hehe, well, I thought at least one here would know suitable dimensions.
Kink as in hit it with a hammer?
Ozark might be on to something there. If you aren't up to a proper fix, you could wind some dental floss around the screw under the head until it takes up the slack and tie it off.
Don't go getting a hammer, I'll get the sizes for you.
Spire clips:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/111606511362?hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&device=c&chn=ps&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
Size 8 are what you want. In metric that's 4mm
Then you want three size 8 or 4mm stainless steel self pan head tapping screws 12mm or half an inch long
If you're going to try yourself, it's a good idea to take the exhaust off the bike so you can rest in on an old cushion on the bench. this will reduce massively the chance of slipping with the drill. Once on the bench and the cushion, the first job is to mask off the shiney bits with tape, then knock out the centre rivet stems. A thin punch and a few sharp taps with a hammer should do. Then with care and patience and a sharp drill on a slow speed, you can drill the old rivets out taking care not to slip off.
Then fit the spire clips and you're ready to re-assemble.
Even if you aren't keen now, getting it off the bike and taking in your hands to a garage (rather than a bike shop if you don't have engineering works near you) and plead with them :thumbsup
Quote from: Chris Canning on August 18, 2015, 10:16:06 AM
I come across this problem most days 'It's an easy job mister' 'In that case why don't do it yourself' errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :icon_redface:
It's only easy when you know how,it's not about how long it will take it's about how many F ups that person has had to go through to learn what he/she knows that's what you are paying for :icon_wink:
That's a very good point Chris!! Hence my caption "I make the mistakes so you don't have to..."
Excellent, Bixxer Bob!
For completeness, I'd like to add that my mechanic is not a bike shop, he's independent, doing service and repairs, Triumph, Kawa and HD.
I suppose I might be able to take the exhaust off.. just maybe.. but so far everything I try to do there's a hidden can of worms, so probably also this part project would have too. :-D
I live in an apartment in the middle of the centre of our city of 2 million. It's parked behind the building where I live, reasonably hidden from prospective theives or drunken random bypassers, BUT I have no space to do anything big, like installing a bench to drill on and so on. Add to that my zero experience, things can easily get ugly, or hairy... or both.
I'm interested in your idea about the dental floss! Did you with "screw" mean the three visible heads of the rivets? I think it is - but just to be sure. It's probably the more pragmatic way to go for me since I cannot do a proper job (which would be more my style, but not having my own garage and so on...)
I suspect that the rivets do not have any visible slack, it's more likely just half a millimeter or something. I'll investigate that in more detail, in a few hours.
What diameter of dental floss should I use? (I AM JOKING! :-D)
How many of them are loose?
How good a fix you want?
Wedge something under it to stop the noise
Smoodge a wad of jb weld over the whole thing
or drill them out
block up the space behind the rivets under the bracket and smack em real good or use an air chisel and see if they will tighten up
stick a screw driver or something into the bracket under the rivet and twist and see if it takes up space and jams it quiet
I'd have a hot babe ride on back and just hold it for me
the muffler shield
we need pictures
If I have to tweak something every few months, then that's fine if it only takes a few minutes.
Smoodge? I do love my bike but come on, I'm not gonna make out with it. :)
About the screw driver, you mean to bend the bracket slightly to get it closer to shield? I don't understand, shouldn't it bend the other way to make more tension in the rivet to hold it firmer (preventing the sound)?
Yeah, the hot babe on the back, problem solved. :)
I'll get pics for you today.
Here is my exhaust.
I was knocking on the shield, pressing at various places. Same sound with or without pressing, which indicates that the rivets are firm. Don't know how to explain that...
When running engine at some RPM it burrs and when I press on the shield it stops.
The rivet further to the rear is dark, the other two shining metal. Do you see that in my image? What could that be?
And, to my big surprise I found a big dent at the read end of the shield?! I don't know when or how that came to happen, possibly quite a while ago but it kind of looks like bird shit so I thought it'd just go away when I wash the bike next time. Didn't even examine it until today.
Looks like it's been changed at some point. ideally the floss should go between the heat shield and the mounting on the silencer but I see that could prove a challenge. Doable, but will take time. Ozarks idea of wedging something behind it would work too.
There's no room for any floss on the outside.. not even 0.5mm gap of those rivet heads.
A wedge was my first thought, but it has to be a heat resistant material. Ideas?
Silicone... maybe from and old kitchen utensil? :sign13
That must have been some some bird shit to put a dent in the shield :bug_eye
It won't have to be heat resistant to use on the shield.
Rivets not loose?
take a step back
wedge anything for now, wood as in stick, gravel, folded cardboard, whateva
is your dent real close to touching the muffler? could it be just that part vibrating?
maybe noise from inside muffler, baffles against the shiny part
are the muffler mounts tight? and where the exhaust comes apart tight?
your not touching anything else back there when you touch and it stops?
The end/exit of the can tight?
It might be that when I press the shield, if it itself is not loose at all, it in turn presses on something that is slightly loose.
I would take off the exhaust and shake it, tap it, shout and swear at it etc... it could be a stone fallen inside or even a weld broken on the baffle, its an easy job and you may get a clue - you may even refit it and the noise dissapears :^_^
True, it could be some stone or something inside. It could possibly also be the screws where it's mounted - or even the screws at the opening of the exhaust.
This helped me understand how the shield is mounted: (showing the exhaust without the shield - I didn't listen to the sound).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Cu0SabXrAw
You people are my freaking heroes today. I bought my Tiger a few months ago and have been trying ever since to figure out if that noise was normal. The whole time, I was thinking the sound was coming from down in the drivetrain. After reading this, I walked out ad tapped my heat shield and voila! Broken rear-most rivet. Tied a piece of leather around it and took it for a spin and the annoyance has ceased. Thank you!!
chillman
stuff sumthin under there
That is brilliant, CO_885i! I have yet to get rid of mine and it really annoys me. :)
Was it a leather belt? What about heat?
just
put
something
in
there
that's what she said? :icon_redface:
I put something in there. I cut an eraser/rubber into a wedge, and drove around... without burrrrrr!
Then the rubber melted a little into "newly chewed chewing gum"... if you know what I mean. And the burr was back.
Yup, it'd need to be something that can stand the heat. A piece of silicon tubing would get you a result.
The eraser thing was just to test the theory. Plus I got a wonderful burrless half hour. :)
Tomorrow the bike goes to the workshop for brake/tyre, I'll ask him to redo the rivets as well.
Had that last summer. Used high temp epoxy paste to stick it on. Heat cures the paste, sound hasn't come back.
Bike workshop fixed it today. Took it for a 100km trip afterwards today. NO MORE ANNOYING BURRING!
He wasn't too keen about this project because he said those rivets tend to spin when you drill, AND it is tricky to get the remaining parts out, once done. Still, he did it, partly because I did other work at the same time (front breaks/tyres) and it's the third visit with him this year. I might be back in spring for a 20,000 km service.
He didn't fit new rivets, instead screws and some part inside.
:thumbsup
Quote from: ChillMan link=topic=14762.msg112806#msg112806 datquote author=ChillMan link=topic=14762.msg112806#msg112806 date=1441927747]He didn't fit new rivets, instead screws and some part inside.
You scare me dude