Do you know how i clean the rust on the radiator ??
In or on?
Quote from: threepot on December 20, 2015, 12:05:32 AM
In or on?
+1. On: use rust killer and paint it to make it look presentable. In: more serious things afoot....
If you have been using the correct coolant and mix there should be no rust in the radiator. That should answer the question on how to stop further corrosion. But you can't "fix" it.
The rust is in the radiator , i use coolant 1 liter antifreeze for -50C and the rest diluted for -12C.
I buy the moto used and non moved for about 2 years.
Quote from: BruKen on December 20, 2015, 04:54:07 PM
If you have been using the correct coolant and mix there should be no rust in the radiator. That should answer the question on how to stop further corrosion. But you can't "fix" it.
I think he means rust in the coolant
Even the best of coolant mixes will turn to rust after awhile ........the steel cylinder liners that sit in the coolant box of the engine will just about guarantee orange coolant (read that as rust) after a couple years
for as little coolant that is actually in the engine , a drain and flush at every oil change is a good habit to get into . you won't see any rust either :icon_wink:
Quote from: Mustang on December 20, 2015, 07:25:21 PM
I think he means rust in the coolant
Even the best of coolant mixes will turn to rust after awhile ........the steel cylinder liners that sit in the coolant box of the engine will just about guarantee orange coolant (read that as rust) after a couple years
for as little coolant that is actually in the engine , a drain and flush at every oil change is a good habit to get into . you won't see any rust either :icon_wink:
Coolant, like oil, has a service life. Or at least the inhibitors in the coolant do. Depending on the ratio used this can be between an annual or 3 year cycle. If you are mixing 50-50 as prescribed 3 years is the max you can stretch it for most modern variants
Quote from: RELIS on December 20, 2015, 07:06:01 PM
The rust is in the radiator , i use coolant 1 liter antifreeze for -50C and the rest diluted for -12C.
I buy the moto used and non moved for about 2 years.
That is very bad form. There are a number of different types of anti freeze coolant and where as some will mix others do not. Generally if you want to protect to say -40C you choose a compatable coolant for the bike (again different types of coolant for different vehicle compatability, due to different metallurgies found in different engine cooling systems eg. Zinc, brass, aluminium, copper magnesium etc). So lets say your bike likes low silicate ethanal glycol. Choose a brand that will support up to -50C say and then you adjust the ratio of the mix. It's usually on the bottle eg 25% mix -15C, 33% -25C, 50% -50c etc. Dont mix and match coolants, some mixes will dilute effectiveness and cause silicate precipitation while other mixes can end up being corrosive with organic acids created and brown sludge.
Is it brown sludge you are seeing, or rust?
Is brown sludge....
As Mustang suggests..Drain whats in system,flush with clean water,then refill with a flushing agent. Allow it to do its work,Flush again,then fill with coolant mix. Not much else you can do? :^_^
Worst off if none of the others work, is removing & flushing. Call a radiator shop. A short dip, rinse & new paint. Removal straight forward but tedious.
That's a good idea, get the rad refurbed.
All this puts me in mind to change my coolant while i have time, is it the blue or pink coolant type in a steamer?
Quote from: RELIS on December 22, 2015, 10:30:09 PM
Is brown sludge....
This is almost certainly from mixing antifreeze types then. There is not enough iron in the bike cooling passages to rust. The barrels are not press cast iron, they do not rust much more than a superficial patina at most and the only other iron will be found in the rad headers. Enough to taint the water, but not create sludge. You will need to flush the cooling system out now.
BTW, the coolant required is not so much for the antifreeze properties but to increase the boiling point. The biggest wear would be caused by water boiling at the microscopic level off the wet liners and causing cavitation erosion of the liner.
I'd have to look which type of coolant should be used, it's somewhere in the Heynes book of words.... but stick to that.
Quote from: Nick Calne on December 23, 2015, 09:40:12 AM
That's a good idea, get the rad refurbed.
All this puts me in mind to change my coolant while i have time, is it the blue or pink coolant type in a steamer?
There is no standard of colour by antifreeze manufacturers, not a good guide. You want ethylene glycol with corrosion inhibitors 50:50 deionised / distilled water mix. i.e. don't mix it yourself with tap water, get the premixed stuff unless you're into aquariums and have an RO water maker.
Quote from: BruKen on December 23, 2015, 04:24:55 PM
....get the premixed stuff ....
:iagree
So much easier than faffing around trying to do it yourself with water of questionable origin.
Quote from: nickjtc on December 23, 2015, 04:29:22 PM
:iagree .......... I suspect that that any 'name brand' antifreeze of the right mix ratio will do just fine.
These days antifreeze has become almost as complex as oil. I wouldn't suspect that at all. However any ethylene glycol mix for pre mid 90 engines should work. See the post above regarding metallurgy. These days the antifreeze is designed around that in order not to add to the corrosion and act as a galvanising catalyst. Slightly off topic but you wouldn't believe the hoops I have to jump through to get the right type of anti-freeze for my boat inboard diesels. Annode this type, annode that type, antifreeze this type, get it wrong and you'll have a nice pile of white powder and a puddle of oil in the bilge.
Am I to believe that OAT(Organic Acid ) types are to be avoided? Ive read that they contain additives that destroy gaskets etc?
Since we got a condensing tumble drier I find I have more distilled water than I have uses. (Your significant other is probably pouring yours down the sink, as wasmine till I found out). It keeps well in the dark for a couple of months without turning green as long as you put it into clean containers. It gets used in the domestic iron, windscreen washer mix etc but I handn't thought of cooling systems up till now but there you go......
Quote from: threepot on December 23, 2015, 08:10:19 PM
Am I to believe that OAT(Organic Acid ) types are to be avoided? Ive read that they contain additives that destroy gaskets etc?
You've probably heard of Dex-Cool then.
Read all about it - http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/08/gm_dexcool.html
(http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/wlb136/DSCN3151.jpg)
Quote from: BruKen on December 23, 2015, 08:35:03 PM
You've probably heard of Dex-Cool then.
At risk of displaying lack of awareness... if the coolant is changed at the recommended intervals for the drivers location and driving habits, surely that mess would be avoidable??
Like you mentioned earlier, if coolant is treated like oil, as a disposable consumable (??) this kind of situation should not occur. Or am I missing something?
http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk
Quote from: nickjtc on December 23, 2015, 09:12:09 PM
At risk of displaying lack of awareness... if the coolant is changed at the recommended intervals for the drivers location and driving habits, surely that mess would be avoidable??
Correct. What people do though is top up. That's the thin edge of the wedge
Quote from: BruKen on December 23, 2015, 04:56:02 PM
you wouldn't believe the hoops I have to jump through to get the right type of anti-freeze for my boat inboard diesels. Annode this type, annode that type, antifreeze this type, get it wrong and you'll have a nice pile of white powder and a puddle of oil in the bilge.
I would, every maker has their own for the smaller, higher output units. Which colour would you like Sir? I don't trust these colour changing self indicating types, hard to see when it's brown with rust :icon_rolleyes: , I only trust proper chemical analysis which I do regularly (on large marine diesel engines) and that has proven to me on many occasions that they are not operating when they should, i.e. when the residual chemical packs have been depleted. I've heard of the Evans stuff but never tried it since it was not available where and when I needed it but I might give it a second look now.
Quote from: BruKen on December 23, 2015, 10:08:49 PM
Correct. What people do though is top up. That's the thin edge of the wedge
Erm, if a person is having to top up, shouldn't they be exploring the reason why?? :qgaraduate Easy for me to say because in all of my experience with liquid cooled motor vehicles I've never had to do it.
Quote from: nickjtc on December 24, 2015, 12:50:49 AM
Erm, if a person is having to top up, shouldn't they be exploring the reason why?? :qgaraduate Easy for me to say because in all of my experience with liquid cooled motor vehicles I've never had to do it.
Because they see the resevoir looks like it's on Min, so they top to max. Unless they have a leak the resevoir will naturally fluctuate and reach a balance. Sometimes that is at the min and sometimes even lower. Put more in and it just vents out. So begins the cycle.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on December 23, 2015, 11:58:20 PM
I would, .........
Still some life in that heat exchanger sir :bug_eye :ImaPoser
I thought that all Triumphs came with brown muddy looking stuff as coolant,all three of mine have done.
Quote from: trophydave on December 24, 2015, 09:16:00 PM
I thought that all Triumphs came with brown muddy looking stuff as coolant,all three of mine have done.
Perhaps it was an optional extra only available to a lucky few... :ImaPoser