Hello All,
I've been having this hiccup issue since I bought my *Girly* about 6 months ago. I've replaced the vac hoses with auto line hoses, cleaned the stepper motor, and now am guessing I may need to change my coils. :^_^
The bike starts and idles fine when cold, but once it warms up (the hotter, the worse) the motor will hiccup at idle and when coasting. Usually it drops to about 400rpm and springs back up. It has caused me to stall a hand full of times. It is sporadic like a human hiccup and sounds almost exactly like the one in this video of a bonnie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeV9F-cGgQs&nohtml5=False
thoughts, ideas, prayers PLEASE :bowdown
2000 Tiger 885i 6k miles :rrr
I thought it was just me... my 01 Bonnie has done the same. Its so sporadic and I have not rode it much I never bothered. If I remember correctly it started when I put a 'juiced' ignitor in that moved the advance and upped the rev limiter. I need to tear into the carbs and check for air leaks on the vac hose's before I make that assumption.
Where are you at in NorCal? I'm in the San Joaquin Valley.
The ok cold, worse when hot suggests the crank sensor, but the tend to fail more on the old Steamers. If you can borrow a known good one you could swap to see if it sorts it. Otherwise you'll be throwing money at it not really knowing if you are aiming at the problem.
You could have a coil stick going off and TunECU would diagnose that.
I'm in Fairfield (halfway between SF and Sac).
I took it to a shop up here and they sprayed around to check for hose leaks...couldn't find any.
@BB, I have a cable for TuneECU but the program doesn't recognize my bike. I think I read that some actually have to leave the headlight fuses IN...? :icon_scratch:
Hey Dev_1 !! Removal of the headlight fuse (AFAIK) only applies to bikes that don't have a headlight on/off switch, its so the battery aint drained when yer checkin stuff with the engine off :thumbsup
yer battery needs to be fully charged to work with TuneECU :nod
KK
Kenny's right, and not hooking up is generally either a driver fault or a cheap Chinese cable the has the wrong chip in it. There is something you can do while you think about it though.
Chairhead had a really perplexing problem with his and tried all the usual known problems without any improvement. Then he went on one of his winter jaunts and had to be recovered back to the UK. It turned out there was corrosion in the ECU connectors that eventually resulted in meltdown. It occurs because the rear frame undertray is full of holes and the water gets under the ECU. Damaged ECUs are not unheard of. Not wanting to frighten you, but you may as well have a look and eliminate the more obscure causes.
Thanks for the concern but this bike has seen more dust from the PO than any kind of mud/ rain/ dirt. The ECU looks clean to me.
I'll give it another shot hooking it up.
Is the a TOR exhaust + airbox restrictor deletion tune that you'd recommend (while we're on the subject)?
Here is the video I just posted of MY bike and the hiccup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGPo7NsPUwc
Your tag says it's only done 6000k so it's odd to say the least. Normally I'd be checking the valve clearances although mine's done 36k and they've not been touched. Injector manifold gasket is another source of leaks and rough running but not like you're getting.
I'd be wanting to look to see if there are fault codes, and to look at what the coils are doing. Although the rev counter drops significantly when it coughs, the actual engine speed is hardly affected which makes me think something's affecting the spark momentarily that will also affect the rev counter. Rev counter is driven by the ECU not the engine. Which takes me back to crank sensor again, but the mode of failure for that (up till now anyway) is cutting out when hot and not restarting until it's cooled down. Right now I can't think of anything else that would fool the ECU into thinking the revs had dropped when they hadn't and thus producing the drop on the rev counter. Happy for anyone else to chime in if I'm missing something.
:iagree ignition circuit somewhere.
Hopefully the Tune ECU will tell me what I need to know. I do believe it's an engine hesitation vs just a tach reading; as there's been a time or two where I've tried to accelerate right at the (blip) moment and stalled out.
For the record, it has brand new plugs and the ones I pulled looked normal.
The sound seems to come from just above the radiator... not from the lower engine area.
So TuneECU is being a royal c%÷×.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. :BangHead
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still fucked.
Quote from: Dev_1 on April 16, 2016, 08:05:51 AM
So TuneECU is being a royal c&*^.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. :BangHead
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still f÷=/$#.
Good job we arent in Canada, you cant say C&*^ in Canada ( for those unfamiliar look up Kevin Bloody Wilson) :ImaPoser
Anyway , I have the same Tune ECU problem mate, Ive got the same cable I used with Tune ECU 6 years ago no problem, but now I have a newer laptop it will not install correctly, Ive given up for now, but then my bikes running ok, ish, well its a *Girly* in it.
One thing, is your bike a proper Cali bike with all the extra purge stuff, carbon cannister etc?
My bike did a bit of that Inlet Puffing when I first got it, ok mine had a massive hole in one of the IACV tubes but even after replacing them it still did it a bit. But, the more I rode it the better it got and I dont think its done it at all now for quite some time. I wonder if I had a partially blocked injector which would give a lean issue every now and then, hence the inlet backfire/pop.
PS: Think we have posted this on the wrong thread havent we?
Quote from: Dev_1 on April 16, 2016, 08:05:51 AM
So TuneECU is being a royal c%÷×.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. :BangHead
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still f₩¥¥€@.
Most of us who've used it know your pain, though we might not be quite as graphic in use of descriptive prose :icon_redface: , go easy mate :thumbsup
Best stick with the genuine Microsloth drivers for the windows side.
More often than not the problem is completely eradicating old drivers and pointers that still try to load them. Sometimes you just have to open a can, take a deep slug, start from scratch.
Hang in there, when it works the feeling is :wings
The sound is a compressed but unburnt fuel cycle so yes, it'll be coming from the top.
And yes, the engine did hesitate, but, as far as I can tell, not down to 400 rpm and back up again whereas the tacho did.
If the ignition circuit was interrupted by a coil the engine would do as it is doing, but the tacho would give no more that a little dance of the needle, which is does on tickover anyway.
If the sensor misses a beat, the ECU momentarily thinks the crank has stopped turning so interrupts the spark and drops the rev counter to zero.
That's the logic based on what I can see. What I don't understand is why the sensor should hiccup. Generally they either work or they don't.
Hang on a minute... the fog is clearing..... years ago I had a regular very slight misfire on tickover on my old Volvo. Other than that it ran fine. I changed all sorts of things before giving up and putting it into an ignition specialist. He found a very slight air leak on the inlet manifold on one cylinder. Just something to think about. The throttle body gasket maybe? How often does it occur, is it regular???
Could be worth trying the old squirting WD-40 around the inlet area while the engines running. This is a Cali bike isnt it? Has it got all the extra purge tubes etc. Oh, and has it got a scottoiler?
Hello all
I didn't mean to offend anyone with my colorful language. Perhaps you've heard the phrase "curse like a sailor"? Well, our language doesn't change much when we take to the sky.
Anyways, I believe I've found where all of the driver files are located and I will proceed with deleting all previous driver files, loading the FTDI file, and seeing if it gives me a code.
Code or no code, I'll be lifting the fuel tank to have a look around. I'll make sure all hose connections are tight...maybe I'll try to lift it just a bit and run the bike. Maybe I can pinpoint the location of the bugger.
While I'm in there, I have an unrestricted airbox to install. :wheel
Today is a new day, my friends.
Quote from: Dev_1 on April 17, 2016, 05:38:01 PM
Hello all
I didn't mean to offend anyone with my colorful language.
(https://img1.etsystatic.com/061/0/10425405/il_570xN.773815441_74t0.jpg) :mut
Ummm, just a suggestion but I would get the bike running properly before adding extra mods into the equation. Never before has "If it aint broke dont f&^% with it" been better advice for a bike like the Girly. Scuse my French, you started it :icon_smile:
Which cable to you get for Tune ecu ? Are you using USB 2 or 3 on your Laptop ?
Alright Chaps,
I am using an OBDII cable. I went back and installed the old version of FTDI and it took. I still wasn't getting "connection" until I read a post that mentioned "kill switch on, gear in neutral". Bingo!
My old Girly had racked up quite a few codes:
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit high input
P0562 System Low voltage
P0353 Ignition coil 3 circuit malfunctioning
P1315 Ignition coil 3 circuit open/ short to ground
P0230 Fuel pump relay def
P1231 Fuel pump relay open/ short to ground
P0113 Inlet air temp sensor open/ short to battery
well. I have a feeling that blip may be caused by ignition coil 3. I have cleared the faults to see which will return. So far only P0463 has stuck around. Maybe this explains why my fuel gauge reads EMPTY after only 40 miles into a full tank.
With P0353 codes, is this normally a bad coil tube?
Quote from: Dev_1 on April 18, 2016, 06:10:33 AM
Alright Chaps,
...................With P0353 codes, is this normally a bad coil tube?
Others will chime in no doubt, but I would say yes, highly likely, especially as it seems heat related from your first post. If you want to really tie it down, swap no2 and 3 coil packs over, if fault follows coil pack, ta da. I think BB has a wiring diagram with Pin outs if you want to do end to end cable checks though.
When Bixxer's looked at mine you could see the coil was down just on the screen shot.
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit high input << running bike without tank on bike i.e. nurse tubes...
P0562 System Low voltage << old battery needs a charge...
P0353 Ignition coil 3 circuit malfunctioning << I haven't seen this code before. Very specific.
P1315 Ignition coil 3 circuit open/ short to ground. << Bad coil or not screwed down...
P0230 Fuel pump relay def << starting bike without fuel pump hooked up...
P1231 Fuel pump relay open/ short to ground << starting bike without fuel pump hooked up...
P0113 Inlet air temp sensor open/ short to battery << running bike without airbox on bike with sensor disconnected.
Most can be explained away. Those ones specific to Ignition Coil look extremely suspect. BTW... TuneECU won't tell you if you Head Gasket is bad or if you have an air leak on Throttle Bodies.
Quote from: Timbox2 on April 18, 2016, 07:29:04 AM
Others will chime in no doubt, but I would say yes, highly likely, especially as it seems heat related from your first post. If you want to really tie it down, swap no2 and 3 coil packs over, if fault follows coil pack, ta da. I think BB has a wiring diagram with Pin outs if you want to do end to end cable checks though.
Sorry Timbox2 beat me to the punch:
Instead of buying a new coil... move it too see if you can make the error move to another cylinder.Low volts will cause your fuel gauge to drop to zero.
Oh yeah , remember, coil packs are cheap at the moment, well they are in the UK, get in quick I say
Progress :thumbsup
Like Joe and Tim said, all the codes except the ones for the coil happen when you take the tank off and will clear themselves after three heat up / cool down cycles. Or you can reset them with TuneECU.
Swapping coil three with coil two will tell you whether it's the loom or the coil stick thus narrowing it down further.
You guys rock
thanks for helping with the clarification. I'll try the coil swap. I'll also look for some good new coils while I'm at it, especially if now's the time to buy.
I guess the high volt/ low volt fuel level situation is causing my gauge to be funky. I fueled up today and my gauge only read half tank.
By battery did need a little charge. It is less than 8 months old and it's one of the pretty yellow ones. Hopefully it's not bad.
It should be ok, it was probably after a bit of cranking. As for the fuel gauge, they all do that. It plays Truth or Dare for no apparent reason (well, there is, the float sticks) you learn to fill it full and do 200 miles to a tank and ignore the gauge. As for the warning light, mine behaves normally at ign on and when starting, but hasn't indicated low fuel for at least the last 5 yrs.
Quick update:
After clearing the faults with TuneECU, I installed the TOR map. Upon the first ride, I noticed the engine operation was smoother but idle was very high.
That night I had TuneECU perform an TPS Reset and we are back to normal idle rpm. No new faults, no "hiccups" since.
Last night I modded and installed the airbox that I bought from ebay. K&N filter, restrictor plate eliminated, and coil #3 moved to the #2 cylinder just to see if she starts acting up again.
So far, everything is nice and smooth :knock on wood:
Will take it for a little spin tonight. :__
Fingers crossed :occasion14
So far so good. You guys have been awesome. :icon_salut:
Quote from: Dev_1 on April 26, 2016, 06:08:09 AM
So far so good. You guys have been awesome. :icon_salut:
We try... :icon_redface:
Update: Riding has been great since replacing the exhaust can, removing the air box blank plate, and updating the map with TuneECU.
I had around 4 hours of cumulative riding with no hiccups. When she did get the hiccups again it had much less effect and the blips were farther apart.
I checked to see if a fault code came back for my coil pack and the answer is no. No new fault codes despite the brief occurrence of the returning hiccup. :tin hat