So having owned my Steamer for a whole month now and done some jobs on her, mainly all new fluids (including some brake fluid that was fitted from factory i feel) but the list of jobs still to do seems to be growing.
I come to the masses for advice on 3 points if you would be so kind.
1. I have a serious case of handlebar wobble at almost any speed if i let go, generally the bike pulls slightly right anyway. I am on a set of contitrail attacks which have only done 3k but have been having this issue since i bought the bike so doubt it is them, however, i checked wheel alignment yesterday and found it to be off with the real wheel running to the right. Downside is i don't have, nor can i seem to find in a local shop, any 12mm allen keys to make adjustments. I guess the angle explains the pulling but do you think this could be causing the handlebar wobble?
2. It is spluttering in any gear under 3k revs even when warm, from reading on here it appears to be the ignition coil system, Can i buy one and switch it in till it works or do i have to bite the bullet and buy the lot?
3. Has anyone painted the tank with success cos mine looks like it is constantly sat in a shower there is that much bubbling?
Thanks
Probably is tyre? Mine needs replacing..and I have the 'wobble'!
You could buy 1 coil and swap? Or ..I have just bought 3 New from Sprint on eBay. They are Lucas,made in India :augie Some on here will scoff? :icon_confused: But they were only £30 EA. Spoke to Sprint ,and they have sold a lot without any problems? Worth a shot at that price? I fitted them last week,and the bike definitely runs stronger,more noticeably higher up in the revs. A while back I fitted Denso stick coils. No issues really,except I felt I'd lost some top speed? Well,the bike seems to have regained it with these coils?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ignition-Coil-Triumph-Trophy-900-Tiger-900-Carburettor-Model-/301724642775?hash=item464030add7:g:pFcAAOSwG-1WvJgz
Most of the time the cause of the wobble is at the opposite end, I would say the wheel alignment is most likely the culprit, also check the wheel bearings, and the steering head bearings for play or notchiness.
12mm allens are widely available either as a socket bit or a lever type, and if you can't get one in a local motorfactors they are easy to locate on ebay, order yourself a T55 Torx bit too as you'll need it at some point, get a decent make though as it will twist or even shear otherwise.
As for the Allen tool - At 12mm the quality isn't too critical if its just for chain maintenance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-T4411-12-12mm-HEXAGON-ALLEN-TYPE-HEX-KEY-/401019352088?hash=item5d5e9db418:m:m2DqdsNLm9ovNgAZsoJOHcA
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-to-12mm-ALL-SIZES-HEX-KEY-ALLEN-BIT-3-8-Drive-Socket-Top-Quality-Guaranteed-/160779452602?var=&hash=item256f33c0ba:m:mqMsxnVRcV0LocO0uwLmW-w
Is the fuel/air/exhaust system all standard? - steamers don't usually like being messed about with.
As its a Nylon tank I think its a specialist job (someone will correct me if I'm wrong :icon_rolleyes: )so it may be that the cost of a repaint would be prohibitive... see if you can get a decent second-hand tank?
Before you do anything that's going to cost you money, take the front calipers off one at a time. Push the pistons out another 5mm (leave the pads in place if you're worried about popping them) give the pistons a good scrub, a light smear of red rubber grease and then push them all the way in (careful not to overflow the master cylinder) before pushing them back to normal.
You shouldn't have less than 2.3 bar in the front and 2.5 bar in the rear tyres.
Try adding a bit more preload one turn at a time.
I will give those lucas coils a try then unless anyone knows of any scare stories about them.
Completely standard fuel air and exhaust system. It is popping on overrun higher up which further suggests coils doesn't it?
I replaced the pads for new sintered ones at the same time as changing the fluid so the pistons were pushed right back then and seemed to move ok but I didn't use rubber grease so will try that and wheel alignment before I shell out for a new set of boots.
May go down the route of a leather tank cover if painting isn't really a feasible option
Thanks
Popping on the overrun is most often an air leak on the intake side.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on August 06, 2016, 09:41:59 PM
Popping on the overrun is most often an air leak on the intake side.
:iagree... or a leak or hole in the exhaust
Quote from: JayDub on August 06, 2016, 10:00:49 PM
:iagree... or a leak or hole in the exhaust
[/quote
I've got a couple of small holes in my silencers,and mine 'pop's a bit on overrun :icon_wink:
What is this "rubber grease" you speak of you wiley old Jock. Never heard of it and I want some for my overstocked but never used man cave g'raj. I mean what bloke, or for that point, saucy wench, wouldn't be impressed with a causual throw away comment of "In that draw I keep my rubber grease and iron filings"
Think ST means this..
Huh! Well I'll be a monkey's. Whatever next? :><
I know where you've been going wrong, don't look in the Adult & SM section of Ebay :XXcomputer
Also handy for assembling O rings, hyd piston and lip seals.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on August 10, 2016, 07:03:17 PM
I know where you've been going wrong, don't look in the Adult & SM section of Ebay :XXcomputer
I didn't even know they had an S&M section? :icon_eek: - how did you find out about it then? :new_popcornsmiley
I have a feeling this is not helping Kenny unless he's either :rfl or :icon_scratch:
So back OT, any more ideas?
If just buy a couple of 12mm long handle keys, they're not very expensive and you'll need them again at some time in the future. Try UK Tool Centre.
Not helpful but definately interesting. Do you reckon the s & m section will have a swing which could be adapted to support the front of the bike in strip downs? :sign13
I received a couple of keys yesterday so will be on that tonight and let you know the results.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on August 10, 2016, 07:03:17 PM
I know where you've been going wrong, don't look in the Adult & SM section of Ebay :XXcomputer
Also handy for assembling O rings, hyd piston and lip seals.
Does it help in lubing up sticky pistons? My rear calipers dont release as effectively as it should lately and needs a service, possibly a rebuild or replacement.
It might, depends how good or bad your seals are.
Do as I suggested above, push out as far as you can, good scrub up, lube and push them ALL the way back again. Often that'll give you a better lever as well. Just watch out for overspill.
I have never done wheel alignment before as i came from the belt driven Harley world, does the below look like i am on the right track?
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt213/kenwhittle/20160812_074946_zpsiilgrapn.jpg)
So i sort of had undo fever last night, the main thing i was doing was checking valve clearances but after stripping it all down i realised i didn't have a spark plug socket that fits :BangHead. If i have a couple which are out of tolerance, where is best to get shims?
Now i am;
checking and adjusting valve clearances
new spark plugs
new ignition coils
clutch slave cylinder rebuild
air filter
cleaning carbs
fixing my gunked up fuel tap that drips so slow on reserve it cuts out
front sprocket
fork oil & seals
throttle cable
Should run nicely after all that
Try your nearest Honda workshop is the best bet once you've figured out which shims you need.
If you're lifting the cams rather than using the bucket tool, make sure you jam the chain at the drive sprocket to stop it dropping off.
Use a mirror or small camera when washing the tank out to get all the crud in the corners. You'll be amazed at how much white powder and fine rust collects in there.
I can't see alignment being any different than what you're use to, you look like being on the right track, pardon the pun :icon_rolleyes:
Thanks Sin
You changing the camchain? What's the mileage?
No I'm leaving the cam chain. I was checking clearances on the valves and all are within tolerance so I can leave the cams alone. Bikes done 22k miles
Ignition coils changed and new tyres on due to wall cracking. Gone for bridgestone battlewing 501/2's and the wobble has stopped :wings
What coils did you buy?
Standard ones on squaredeals http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/triumph-carb-models-3-cyl-ignition-coil-single-outlet-replacement-for-oem-t1290046-20749-p.asp
Worked a treat
They're listed as Nology? Were they? If so,thats a good price. My bike still has a little trace of hesitation after changing plugs,New coils,and even using my Daytonas igniter. I'm thinking it could be the crank sensor? It's fine until I stop. Then I notice it occasionally after :icon_scratch: But the crank sensor is off my Daytona,which I replaced a few years ago,and hasn't done a lot of miles.
They had precisely no markings on which isn't helpful to you. Maybe yours just doesn't like stopping, likes the open road etc.
Quote from: kenny junior on August 31, 2016, 11:07:48 AM
They had precisely no markings on which isn't helpful to you. Maybe yours just doesn't like stopping, likes the open road etc.
I've already bought 'new' coils,from Sprint Manufacturing. They were advertised as Gill,but turned up as Lucas! Thats why I asked if yours are too?